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OceanDad last won the day on August 22

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About OceanDad

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    Control4 End User

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  1. That helps, thanks. Now I'll check if that fixes some of the strange display on/off behavior when changing sources.
  2. Just interested - would the only reason to have this property enabled be to use the HDMI audio as one of the 5 possible streams on an EA-5 ?
  3. Trying to figure out a small problem with announcements into the kids bedrooms. I have an 8 zone C4/Triad Amp, 8x8 C4 AV matrix and an EA-5. I've never hooked up the ceiling speakers in the kids rooms, but I have some spare zones so I thought that would be a good thing to do - they can have a TIDAL stream each, and in return I can play announcements for dinner time etc. Their existing C4 setup for their bedrooms simply consists of a Roku TV and some lighting. The video end point is The Roku TV, and Audio End Point 1 is the TV. Video Volume 1/Audio Volume 1 is obviously also the Roku TV. I added a zone of the Amp to be Audio End Point 2, and Audio Volume 2 is the corresponding zone of the AV matrix. This works fine for playing TIDAL, and controlling volume works as expected. However - when I add the room in Announcement Agent, I get a problem with setting the volume, due to a lack of 'discrete volume control'. It works in the master bedroom, but this only has one Video/Audio end point. What am I doing wrong ? As you can see, the volume settings are greyed out on the two kids rooms. Assuming that I can fix this, what's the best text-to-speech driver for announcements ? Something that my wife can use from a touch screen/app. And/or can they be triggered by an Alexa command in the kitchen if they are pre-programmed ?
  4. Two Relays/No Contacts Four Contacts/No Relays One Relay/Two Contacts I love the Z2IO - it's a Swiss army knife that does a lot of things for reasonable money (repeater/IR/temperature as well), but in this case it can't do both doors independently with inbuilt contact sensing.
  5. If the TV apps are all working well, why not just use the TV ? Use the mini app drivers, and navigate straight to the streaming service with one click from your remote. Keeps things simple, and you have the reliability of ethernet for everything.
  6. Light Dims - ready cut stickers for annoying indicator lights. Different sizes, shapes, opacity % https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CLVEQCO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  7. I don't want to watch through an app - that's like DirecTV Now/You Tube TV, and the family hated it. Maybe I will brave their horrendous sales/customer service and see what they come up with if I threaten to cancel everything.
  8. We have AT&T family plan cell phones and we aren't bundled currently. Need to figure out the best value next step.
  9. Watching this with interest. I was in an AT&T store yesterday, and the remote for the box looks like the old DirecTV one. I'm ready to scrap DirecTV and get something cheaper (which AT&T TV would be), but would like to know that it plays nicely with Control4.
  10. Lots of great remote programmers here. You won’t be alone for long. I’d bet that you will end up with a more useful system than you would have had. A good programmer will work with you to make the equipment do things that work for you, not just a generic set up. I see an EA-3 controller there. Depending on the rest of the hardware, you may well be able to upgrade the system to OS3, which gives you some nice improvements.
  11. I've had Lutron, currently have QMotion. If you can afford the difference in price, go Lutron.
  12. Is it in direct sunlight, or shaded with a gazebo/similar.
  13. Short answer at sub-$3000. JVC for image quality/price, Epson for brightness/price. Hard to get best of both at that price. That said, if it is your first movie room with a projector, it will be great either way. Just make sure that you budget enough for sound to match.
  14. I'd start by disabling the Zwave module for a few days, and see if things improve.
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