hank31980

I think I’m on Ch25 so I’ll give 14 a go. Thanks, let’s see if it’s a solution.

All devices are actually Identified and currently working and functional. These are all Card Access devices. I have quite a few Motion Sensors WMS10 devices in my system and have the odd Relay Devices WCS10-R's. My quest is to try & update the devices to the latest Firmware version, but not sure how to do it. The reason is the latest version allows easy identification of the devices. The newest Motion Sensors seem to be running Firmware 02.01.02 and as such can be identified easily via the Main controllers HC-800 or HC-250 controllers. However the older ones on 02.00.08 seem to be reluctant to identify & can only be identified when there is a Card Access Wireless Contact Relay device present. Don't ask me why, its baffling to me?

I have quite a few Card Access Wireless Motion Sensors. All operational but some seem to rely on a Card Access Relay module for their Zigbee connection. The ones on the older firmware are the ones reliant on this Wireless Relay connection. They are currently operating on different Firmware versions, the latest one seems to be 02.01.02 and the oldest 02.00.08. How can I set these all to the latest? Anybody know how to force them to update to the later version.

I have a similar problem. Even though I followed the Instructions and changed the various Expert settings from within the TV’s menu. Added MAC address info etc to the driver. I could see the TV in the Discovered items as an SDDP device, but same as you this would not load to project when selected. Next step was similar, search for an Online driver based on TV type and load that. I switched the TV on from its own remote and under Connections/Network could see the SDDP version of the Samsung TV appear under other devices. It showed the model and MAC address. I dragged it over to the Driver to identify it and all looked good. The TV responded to commands like Channel Change and Volume Change and Mute. It even powered down when room powered off, but would not be woken up via the LAN connection. so this now seems to be the last issue to solve.

Replying to myself..............not good. I switched the "C4 Speaker Point" into Advanced Audio mode & realised that the HC800 was then actually pumping out Advanced Audio at 96kHz/24bit whereas before ithe Audio Quality Resolution was "Greyed out" and wasn't indicating what it was at. I tried to select 192kHz/24bit but the Active Quality never changed from 96kHz, so out of 3 available settings, 44, 96 & 192 only the lower 44kHz & 96kHz were available. When the Speaker Point is not switched to Advanced Audio the options are greyed out completely as seen in previous message, so not sure what the basic resolution is for Digital Audio (non Advanced)? Anyway, for convenience, I'll still suffer the lower Audio resolution, whatever that may be, for the added convenience of the Speaker Point..........at least for now.

Here an extract from my HC800 controller. So before the recent addition of an old "C4 Speaker Point "to my Garden "Gazebo", I was listening to HC800's Advanced Audio with a resolution of 192kHz/24 bit. Now it looks like I have downgraded the sound to 96kHz/24 bit. It's still pretty good and the ease at which I've gained C4 music right at the end of my garden without major wiring and effort is worth it, certainly for summer.

I have had this issue myself. I followed the steps you have, hold down ID button whilst applying battery power & wait to clear any previously stored Zigbee network connection. Then to my dismay tried to identify..........................with no luck. In the end, even though the room I was identifying in had multiple Zigbbee loaded KD-120270's (Dimmer Keypads) and KC-120270's (Keypads) and nearby rooms were loaded with other Zigbee devices, still no luck. So in the end I introcuced an old Card Access Wireless Relay device (WCS10-R) to the room, for no other reason than this was the same generation device and I have never had an issue identifying it. This appeared to do the trick. 4 Presses on the ID button on the WMS10 was immediately successful? I don't know why, I can't explain it , so if you have such a device then maybe give it a go. PS Some of my devices are on Firmware 02.00.08 and some on 02.10.02, not sure how to go about bringing these up to the same Firmware if I wanted to?

Help and advice needed I have Generic Relays bound to the Relay Outputs of my C4-IO Extender and Contact Switches bound to the Sensor Inputs. As far as the IO Extender is concerned everything is working correctly. However I notice that only the Sensor Inputs record a change of state and they record a Date & Time of activity. This can be seen on the Navigator Interface under "Locks & Sensors" Page. The Relays do what they are asked to do via programming, so they Open and Close correctly, however they never record a Date & Time of their activity. Is this something to do with a deficiency in the Control4 Driver for the C4-IO Extender module (ver 1)? I have other IO devices in the system like IO of the HC-800 Main Controller and also Remote devices like C4-Z2IO modules, they are also bound to Generic Relays & I think that they successfully record activity which makes me think that the problem isn't with the Generic Relay Driver. I was going to use change of State of some of these IO Extender relays to do some programming, but without the Event changing this won't be possible I guess. Does anyone know of a fix?

So, I made a fake driver to deliver the “Power ON” IR code. Then activated this when the Room is switched on ON/OFF. It’s effective in switching the Receiver on/off but it takes 20 seconds or maybe more to appear on the Network and by then the setting of the correct Input, ie TV or DVD las long gone. So your right, it will take more programming just to make this thing operate correctly. Maybe it’s best just to leave it powered, or get a different Receiver that does work with Control4.

Audio End Point and Videos Audio End Point for a Room This Receiver is providing either Stereo Audio or surround Sound Audio for a Room. It handles the Stereo feed from a C4 Audio Matrix or the Optical Output from the Rooms TV. The Amplifier is connected to the Network via Wired LAN & is set to a Static IP address. It was identified in the project via SDDP via the Discovered driver. All necessary features, Volume Up/Down, Input TV etc work via the Driver no problem. ON/OFF Control However at the moment the Amp is always ON, not ideal really. I would like to be able to switch it Off & On as required by the Power On of the Room. The Off function can be achieved via programming the Zone 1 Off. However the opposite does not work. So Programming the Zone 1 to be On does nothing. Once this thing is in Standby Mode, then it is unreachable, via the Network. Lack of Wake-on-LAN Has anyone any advice about this lack of Wake-on-LAN feature of this Receiver? IR Control to solve? Does it make sense to create a pseudo device in the room which could at least mimic the Receivers Remote Control Power ON/OFF Toggle button. Therefore if the Room was powered ON simply Emit the Toggle code for the Power ON via an IR port of the main Controller and stick a IR bid in front of the Receiver? Any advice would be appreciated.

I'm running Control4 Version 2.10.6 using Control4 Driver "Premier Panels IP" as I have fitted a COM-IP module to the Com1 port of the Texecom Premier Elite 24 Panel running Ver 3.01. It works well, I think there is a newer driver out for newer versions of Hardware/Firmware, but it depends what panel & Firmware you are using I guess. I have Zone contacts "bound" to Motion Sensors to program Lighting Scenes if the area is below a certain light level. You can create macros to Set / Unset the Alarm via Keypad Presses or any number of Input methods.

Sorry, I have seen your Screenshot, makes sense to me now. Thanks for posting the info, it should be possible.

Can you use Advanced Lighting with this Dual Load Dimmer or is it fixed to Load ON and Load OFF type control? What I am thinking of is to use one of these Dimmers to replace a couple of single dimmers (C4-KD240's). In my existing Lighting Keypad/Dimmer setup in my house, my Lighting circuits are controlled using a 5 Button configuration plus UP/DOWN buttons for Audio Volume; Button 1 is always a toggle for an ON scene, so either 100% ON or 0% OFF. Button 2 is always a toggle for a DIM scene, so either 20% ON or 0% OFF. But I am not sure if this is capable of this type of control.

Its OK, I found it.

Hi there, I would like to Factory Default Reset one of my Panelised Lighting modules, its a C4-DIN-REL-E (8 Channel Relay Module). Not sure of the procedure, I think it involves the reset Button in conjunction with the Module Override button, but any help would be much appreciated.

OK we will see what transpires when everything is Installed and up and running and the old Speaker Points removed. I see the EA5 specification has the High-resolution audio playback of Up to 192 kHz / 24 bit. Not sure what the spec sheet said for the HC800?

Hi there, thanks for the prompt reply. I don't know what the resolution of the existing Sound is, which is Digital Audio sent around my system over the Network to Speaker Points. I generally listen to things like Spotify via the Connect Driver or Airplay Music to my Control4 system on my HC800. I guess whatever I listen to, ultimately it is getting Digitized & sent over LAN to my little Speaker points, so I assume there is some inherent limitation doing it this way. What I am hoping is that there is an incremental change when I get the Matrix and Amplifier fitted & do away with the Speaker points, as I believe the HC800 can be set into a Higher Res Audio mode which I am hoping to benefit from, but maybe I am mistaken on this? If that doesn't cut the mustard then I may go down the route of EA3 or EA5. But Step by Step & I was just being a bit Nerdy to find out what steps the system would go from to & what it could go to beyond that I guess.

Does anyone know the difference in Audio Resolution between the following setup; HC800 with multiroom Audio via Network connected Speaker Points - my current setup. HC800 with multiroom Audio via Analogue Stereo Outputs inputted to Control4 C4-16ZAMSV3-B & Control4 Amplifier C4-AMP108 - what I am migrating to. I believe that once the Speaker Points are removed I can set the HC800 into a Higher Resolution Audio Output, but not even sure what the system limit is at the moment using the Network connected Speaker Points?

The best method, most reliable was the Driver method, other C4 programming methods were not reliable and clunky to handle. So the best way I found was to Set the correct IR Code to trigger inside the TV Driver, then it just works every time. What helped me was to Sadopt a strategy of setting the TV to the DTV Input (Antenna) every time for every Input Change to make sure I had the same starting point. If I wanted to "Watch TV" then trigger the Antenna Input IR code. If I wanted to "Watch HDMI1" then trigger the TV button IR code, to make sure I started from the TV source, followed by Source button IR code executed 2 times to get me to the correct input HDMI1, all with a small delay of 1/2 second between each Code trigger. If I wanted to "Watch HDMI2" then trigger the TV button IR code, to make sure I started from the TV source, followed by Source button IR code executed 3 times to get me to the correct input HDMI2, all with a small delay of 1/2 second between each Code trigger.

Thanks for your replies. I will look at all 3 suggestions, as they each have their own merits. In then end, it may be easier (although wiring involved) to Connect the HDMI1 Input of the TV to the my 8x8 Video Matrix that I have, then I only have to switch between TV and HDMI1, which is reliable.

Thanks for your answers, but I've had no luck with the codes from Remote Central or the Aquavision pdf doc. Looking at the TV's original Remote(s), both the waterproof one & the normal looking one, there is just a Source button, to select which Input to select, so I think the TV is designed this way. So using Control4, the best I can do is to; activate the IR code for the "Source button" to display the possible Source Input selections on the TV activate the IR code for the "Navigate UP or Down" to move the Input selection to the Input I require activate the IR code for the "Enter button" to select What I need is a programming way of keeping track of which Input I am "Watching" and also switching Inputs correctly when I "Watch" a different Source Input. I will figure it out, but didn't want to reinvent the wheel if there is a way already solved by someone.

Hi there, I have Panasonic TV's throughout the house that integrate well with C4 via an IP based Driver. However I also have an Aquavision Bathroom TV, which is mainly used for Viewing Terrestrial TV channels and this does not have Discrete Input selection. I want to make use the HDMI ports of this TV to bring in play my HDMI Matrix ballun into HDMI 1 and maybe a locally connected Amazon Fire TV stick located on HDMI 2. Unfortunately unlike the Panasonic TV's, the Aquavision TV doesn't have Discrete Source selection options. I can send an IR code to the Aquavision TV to select the Source button, but then you have to either Toggle through them by sending a Source IR code repeatedly to get it to change or you have to use the Up or Down IR codes followed by the Enter IR code to select the Input Source. It would be better if this could be Programmed, i.e. Know which Source you are currently Watching, i.e TV, then from that work out if you have to move Up the selection or Down the selection of displayed TV Source Inputs to acheive your next Watched Source choice? Has anyone got any tips on the best way of acheiving this via Programming (Variables/Macros etc)? I assume maybe via Variable(s)/ Macros to record the presently selected Watch Source Input then maybe another Variable(s)/Macros for the new selected Watch Source Input. Regards David

Shivam you are a star. I was so dissapointed recently when BBC pulled out of TuneIn as some of these Radio stations were configured as favourites. Now I have my Radio stations back. Well done that man!

As usual there is probably a hundred ways of doing this, but I had a go tonight and this seems to work. In Timer Agents, create a new 1 second Timer "GarageDoorOpenBlink". Assign a Keypad Button to Operate the Garage Door Opening. I use a Double Tap to make sure the Keypad button is not accidentally hit, inadvertently Operating the Door Open or Closed. Now test state of the Garage Door Relay itself. When Garage Door is Opened - Reset Timer "GarageDoorOpenBlink", which starts timer running. When Garage Door is Closed - Stop Timer "GarageDoorOpenBlink", which stops timer. Now test state of the new Timer "GarageDoorOpenBlink". Door Closed When Timer is Stopped, then set Keypad LED to LIME colour Door NOT Closed When Timer is Started, then Delay 1/2 second and then set Keypad LED to RED colour When Timer is Expired, i.e. Door is NOT Closed and Timer has expired, then Delay 1/2 second and then set Keypad LED to BLACK colour, then RESTART Timer. Regards David

I realise you already have a HC800, so no problems there, you just need to update maybe to 2.10.6 (latest) to get the Sharebridge (Airplay) & Spotify drivers. If you go down the route of adding Speaker Points to the system to replace the Matrix device you have, they don't have to be located in each Zone, but they do need to be Network connected via LAN, but they could be located in the area of your Rack, I guess your governed by where the Speaker Cable ends are located. An alternative to this Network Distributed Audio would be a Audio Matrix and Separate Amplifier or combined Matrix Amplifier. Audio Matrix Switch (C4-16S2-E-B or C4-16ZAMS-V3-B) connected to a Separate Multi Channel Amplifier (C4-AMP108) or a Multichannel Matrix Amp (C4-16AMP3-B) for example. The HC800 has 2 Stereo Analogue Audio outputs, but it also has 1 Digital Coax Output, so in theory if you get a simple Digital to Analogue converter (look on amazon for this) you then have 3 separate Audio outputs to feed into a matrix. Possibly the HDMI output may be able to be redefined in the same way if you needed 4 different Audio outputs.