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tekki70

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Posts posted by tekki70

  1. control4 is really meant to bring everything together in one uniform app, control devices with a simple remote or touchscreen. if voice control of everything is your main concern you should go with joshai. other than that the dealer should have explained josh is your choice of voice control for everything if you dont want it to be clunky. Another solution could have been control4 to unifi everything and focus on tv viewing, cctv viewing, garage doors etc. then use sonos with alexa built in to voice control music. 

    my focus would have been control4 for video zones, thermostats, garage doors, cctv viewing, lighting, music and then alexa could do sonos music easily, lighting easily, thermostats, and more

    design is key 

  2. there are settings in the VDB setup i would try, first lower the resolutions and make performance a priority. then try that for a week, if it works well. increase resolutions and try that for a week, and so on. 

    also try these settings 


    Frame Size -- 1024x768
    Max FPS -- 15
    Bit Rate Control -- Constrained
    Quality -- Excellent
    Max Bit Rate -- 1 Mbps
    Policy -- Frame Rate Priority

  3. i will have to play with mine, i have never been able to get mine to show a lock or unlock on the experience button, even called tech support about it when i first started using that driver. ill play with mine again and see if i can it get it to show. would be awesome if it does. ill eat my words and apologize. i will also have to go back and fix other projects.

  4. 13 hours ago, Neo1738 said:

    I would think experience buttons to relays would be the way to go. They have some nice door one's that show door open/closed as well as locked/unlocked state.

    the thing i dont like about that experience driver as it only shows if the door is open/close it doesnt display lock/unlocked. wish it did because its a great driver otherwise

  5. you can use the lutron leap driver for caseta hub or the pro hub, once its all setup on the lutron side your dealer can just do get devices under actions  and it will add all your devices automatically but if your c4 project is already built it will add the rooms again and add all the lights into one room so he will have to delete the duplicate rooms and move all the lights to the proper rooms. 

  6. we mainly use an ea input if we have triads spread throughout the house, this helps get a source to the areas that arent connected from our matrix. the only issue you will really run into is if your trying to use a video and audio source. there will be a significant delay. so we mostly only use audio sources but will do a cable box if they wanted to listen to a game where there isnt video. 

  7. i would make sure your digital outs of the ea5 is connected to the digital in of your matrix then in composer make sure the binding is correct and delete the other audio connection is composer, refresh navs, try to to play music, if it works good finish the rest of your connections, if not, try to plug the ea5 digital to another device like an avr and play music, if it works, that tells you there is  a bad audio switch, if it doesnt work then you have a bad ea5. ive seen a few go bad. then in composer disconnect all digital connections and just use analog outs until you figure out if your going to replace the ea5.

  8. honestly ive seen this soo many times with araknis 310 routers, without the perfect fix. Settings you have to check of course is STP settings in your core switch, and make sure your core switch has the lowest ip address of all your devices. next would be to static address your dns in the router in 2 places. the main system settings and then in where you set your dhcp pool, this way it forces all devices to use the static address and not the router address. since its xfinity i would try 75.75.75.75 and 75.75.76.76, that has worked for us. before doing these settings i would get calls that all wired deices have internet, but wifi devices say connected without internet. A reboot of the router would always fix it, but thats just a bandaid. since doing those settings i have not had calls from those clients.

  9. i would do 3 cats and a coax, to each tv location, any room you planning on putting a gaming pc or game system i would run a cat for that as well.

    if you can do HDMi i would do hdmi to some tvs  so you dont have to rely on Baluns

    are you going to have local equipment tvs, or in a rack, 

    you can always run packages to closets in the rooms, then run an hdmi and a cat from the bedroom closets to the tvs and keep the equipment in a closet

    would wire for a wap just outside the family room, and one wap for just  outside bed 4

    2  cats for each touchscreen 1 to use 1 as a backup

    wire for speakers in every room but bury the ones in the ceiling you arent going to use now, at least you will have it there if you need in the future

    i would run a fiber to main tvs for future possibilities

    outdoors i would run a wap, tv package and 2 14/4 if you plan outdoor speakers.

    1 cat per camera location 

    1 cat anyewhere you may put a video doorbell

    2 cats to the garage 1 pair per door control and 1 pair per magnets

    run a few extra of everything to the attic as spares, or put a 2" conduit from the attic to the basement for future low voltage

     

     

     

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