tekki70
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Posts posted by tekki70
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ive had to reauthorize mine sometimes after a controller reboot, not all the time, otherwise its been solid
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control4 is really meant to bring everything together in one uniform app, control devices with a simple remote or touchscreen. if voice control of everything is your main concern you should go with joshai. other than that the dealer should have explained josh is your choice of voice control for everything if you dont want it to be clunky. Another solution could have been control4 to unifi everything and focus on tv viewing, cctv viewing, garage doors etc. then use sonos with alexa built in to voice control music.
my focus would have been control4 for video zones, thermostats, garage doors, cctv viewing, lighting, music and then alexa could do sonos music easily, lighting easily, thermostats, and more
design is key
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there are settings in the VDB setup i would try, first lower the resolutions and make performance a priority. then try that for a week, if it works well. increase resolutions and try that for a week, and so on.
also try these settings
Frame Size -- 1024x768
Max FPS -- 15
Bit Rate Control -- Constrained
Quality -- Excellent
Max Bit Rate -- 1 Mbps
Policy -- Frame Rate Priority -
whats your network? have you tried a different solutions for wifi like using wpa2 encryption and a simple password without symbols? hows your wifi signal in the room
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ip control works and now if your box has the latest software voice control works with halo. i have been controlling my xfinity flex box for 4 years and has never lost ip control. you just need to have an older xfinity remote with the A button to setup the ip control and then complete the directions to enable
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try an SSID that has no special characters, a password with no special characters in 2.4 only
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you could also use the garage door experience driver and it has a time built into the driver
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On 10/27/2022 at 12:01 PM, msgreenf said:
we use this chime all the time, it works well,
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10 hours ago, Neo1738 said:
Mine does show all.
which driver are you using? i have tried changing things around and still wont show a lock or unlock state, but as usual pressing on the door does lock or unlock the door. so its the same
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i will have to play with mine, i have never been able to get mine to show a lock or unlock on the experience button, even called tech support about it when i first started using that driver. ill play with mine again and see if i can it get it to show. would be awesome if it does. ill eat my words and apologize. i will also have to go back and fix other projects.
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it should just add the devices that are not in the project already
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13 hours ago, Neo1738 said:
I would think experience buttons to relays would be the way to go. They have some nice door one's that show door open/closed as well as locked/unlocked state.
the thing i dont like about that experience driver as it only shows if the door is open/close it doesnt display lock/unlocked. wish it did because its a great driver otherwise
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you can use the lutron leap driver for caseta hub or the pro hub, once its all setup on the lutron side your dealer can just do get devices under actions and it will add all your devices automatically but if your c4 project is already built it will add the rooms again and add all the lights into one room so he will have to delete the duplicate rooms and move all the lights to the proper rooms.
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you could probably accomplish this by setting up picture modes in the tv, then using scheduler for time of day when the tv turns on. i think you would have to have a decent delay to submit the code though.
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we mainly use an ea input if we have triads spread throughout the house, this helps get a source to the areas that arent connected from our matrix. the only issue you will really run into is if your trying to use a video and audio source. there will be a significant delay. so we mostly only use audio sources but will do a cable box if they wanted to listen to a game where there isnt video.
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we do this all the time and it works fine, i just tested at my house and it works fine. i would try to delete the driver and reinstall.
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i would make sure your digital outs of the ea5 is connected to the digital in of your matrix then in composer make sure the binding is correct and delete the other audio connection is composer, refresh navs, try to to play music, if it works good finish the rest of your connections, if not, try to plug the ea5 digital to another device like an avr and play music, if it works, that tells you there is a bad audio switch, if it doesnt work then you have a bad ea5. ive seen a few go bad. then in composer disconnect all digital connections and just use analog outs until you figure out if your going to replace the ea5.
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honestly ive seen this soo many times with araknis 310 routers, without the perfect fix. Settings you have to check of course is STP settings in your core switch, and make sure your core switch has the lowest ip address of all your devices. next would be to static address your dns in the router in 2 places. the main system settings and then in where you set your dhcp pool, this way it forces all devices to use the static address and not the router address. since its xfinity i would try 75.75.75.75 and 75.75.76.76, that has worked for us. before doing these settings i would get calls that all wired deices have internet, but wifi devices say connected without internet. A reboot of the router would always fix it, but thats just a bandaid. since doing those settings i have not had calls from those clients.
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as others have said, if its zwave, control4 has a vera hub driver, and you can pair the lock with the vera and then use the vera hub in control4 to talk to the lock, you wont be able to set codes in c4 but you will be able to control the lock,
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i would do 3 cats and a coax, to each tv location, any room you planning on putting a gaming pc or game system i would run a cat for that as well.
if you can do HDMi i would do hdmi to some tvs so you dont have to rely on Baluns
are you going to have local equipment tvs, or in a rack,
you can always run packages to closets in the rooms, then run an hdmi and a cat from the bedroom closets to the tvs and keep the equipment in a closet
would wire for a wap just outside the family room, and one wap for just outside bed 4
2 cats for each touchscreen 1 to use 1 as a backup
wire for speakers in every room but bury the ones in the ceiling you arent going to use now, at least you will have it there if you need in the future
i would run a fiber to main tvs for future possibilities
outdoors i would run a wap, tv package and 2 14/4 if you plan outdoor speakers.
1 cat per camera location
1 cat anyewhere you may put a video doorbell
2 cats to the garage 1 pair per door control and 1 pair per magnets
run a few extra of everything to the attic as spares, or put a 2" conduit from the attic to the basement for future low voltage
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would really have to see the project to determine whats going wrong but most likely the biggest question would be,are you using the correct phrase setup for the blinds?
Ecobbee disconnect problems
in General Control4 Discussion
Posted
i have ecobee and havent had the disconnect problem in quite some time, my advice is delete the driver, make sure you have the latest driver, reinstal and reauthorize. i also have several sites that are up and running for a long time too