tekki70

known issue, there was a hardware push and a % of T3 and T4 touchscreens were affected. i had 3 of my T3 affected. what you want to do is just try to push the power button. in some cases this will work, if not you will want to reset it. For in wall touch screens take a paper clip and insert it gently into the reset hole to the left of the microphone,  the small hole. press and hold it, while doing that take another paperclip insert it into the reset hole, press and release. but you will also want to hold the left reset button until the control4 logo with the yellow triangle shows up and then release the left pinhole it will go through a boot process and come back. i did all 3 of mine and all came back without having to do anything else. if it doesnt work try again. for T# portables must be on the charging dock and you hold the volume up button, then insert paper clip into the reset button tap and let go, you will also want to hold the volume up button until the control4 logo with the yellow triangle shows then release 

obviously if your not comfortable doing this, call your dealer but he will be doing the same thing

there isnt one, you can either make a serial driver yourself or make an ir driver. you can also use most ir driver for samsung tv and it will work 

Have you tried a reboot of the controller? Does the egauge require a login from control4 to get communication? If so have you tried to reauthorize it? did the ip change?

BRAINFARTS  they happen lol. grab the arrow and drop it on top of the question mark

try a controller reboot

15 hours ago, Neo1738 said:

Remote sensors, problem solved. 

exactly

have you checked the balance setting in the ea3 and the episode amp?

i have one pro, no issues with audio. i would try a reboot, and make sure your connections are in all the way, if that does not work try new hdmi cables

my advice is hire a c4 dealer and save yourself a headache.

if you want to keep 4k@60 and get proper hdr i would buy another apple tv, then get a cheap stripper from amazon, otherwise if 4k@60 isnt concern just buy an hdmi audio stripper and connect away.

i see several systems a day, large, small and i havent come across systems taking 20 seconds to load a page. Maybe sometimes to load app itself initially but never switching pages within the app. i would recommend having your network looked at, than the system, but if i had a guess it could be a corrupt or bad driver.

exactly, set the tv output to pcm, and in composer the matrix has to be set for tv audio volume and audio volume 

honestly if all your doing is streaming, i would just put 4k apple tv behind each tv. would save thousands, less probability for issues, and then you can invest that saved money in more advancements of the system

honestly you need to find out what device it will be controlling, how many bulbs, what kind of bulb, how much wattage, whether its dimmable or non dimmable.

other considerations will be, do you need to build a zigbee network or not. if you dont, and dont mind the look of caseta, i would use them. if you need zigbee, go with a mix of essentials dimmers and switches, you can even use c4 in wall outlets to build zigbee.

caseta is cheap however you need to check the list of compatible bulbs, integration is very good

essentials is the same thing, research the load and type of bulb being used

forward phase can be used mostly, however depending on the type of load 

adaptive phase fits most all however you need to check how many bulbs will be used and wattage used

the pro hub is needed if you just use the regular caseta driver, the pro hub is not needed if you use the leap driver 

19 hours ago, LollerAgent said:

I was under the impression that the "pro" hub was the only one that exposed the API/interface required for the integration.  Are you sure you don't have a "pro" hub?

i just had this same problem, had to replace the controller, i would 1st reboot the controller, change the hdmi, and if that doesnt work you can try hooking the hdmi directly to the tv and if that still cuts out, its your controller and it needs to be replaced

save the preset to your home page from a phone or touchscreen/tablet

go to spotify connect, hold down on your preset and select save to home

you can try cheap audio balun  we use these alll the time to feed audio back from tvs, obviously we use a optical dac out of the tv to these, then a cat back to a matrix. no audio delay usually but if there is most tvs have a delay edjustment that will  work because its so minimal

https://www.amazon.com/LINESO-3-5mm-Stereo-White-Extender/dp/B01HHO8382/ref=sr_1_5?crid=15MG7QBQXNDHW&keywords=audio+balun&qid=1646127774&sprefix=audio+balun%2Caps%2C91&sr=8-5

why dont you just make presets and then save them to a home page

the leap driver will work with the regular bridge, not sure it will bring in more than 50 devices i cant remember, but it will work

exactly what lipp says, in wall back box behind the tv, i would not recommend mounting it behind a tv without the backbox unless you want the tv off the wall by like 4" 

13 hours ago, turls said:

I've got the legacy CardAccess setup controlling my Garage Doors and put MyQ on one of the doors and it has been flawless.  Amazon was not doing any Key Garage deliveries in my area when I first got it, even though they said it was supported for my address.  Then all of a sudden it was available and I've had around 15 deliveries without a hitch.  Highly recommended, install was easy and I got MyQ on sale for around $20.

Yes myQ works with Amazon key, but neither integrate with c4, your card access integrates

honestly ive been doing av for nearly 30 years, and installing, designing and programming for 10 years. We get so many new clients for takeover jobs its really crazy for so many reasons. Picking a dealer for your area i would suggest a few things, one thing i would do is to see how long they have been doing c4, and look at what level dealer they are, after that i would interview them and ask the lead time it takes for service calls, ask if they do remote service calls because any quality company will always try to fix a system remotely and save a truck roll. Also see if they offer service contracts. The company i work for i am our main service tech/programmer, i work out in the field most days, but also have days when im just in the office making changes to clients systems, i also at my discretion take on emergency calls nights and weekends and when im out with the family i just let the boss no and leave the company phone home. Trust me i understand, im a tech, but im also an end user and understand when a system is down, or not functioning properly it can be frustrating. i work tons of ours outside of my 40, its the nature of the business but some companies either don't have the manpower to handle the load of work, or just plain out are trunk slammers. Interview, choose wisely and i hope you find a quality dealer in your area.

some of the things we do for alarm systems with c4 is if the alarm goes off, we turn lights on dim, if we have deep integration we turn lights on outside, and the zones the alarm went off for. if smoke is detected we will turn lights dim for a path to exits, unlocks doors, open a garage door. However i would never rely on strictly c4 for your alarm, way too many variables to go wrong and not work properly at the time you absolutely need it to prevent some serious injury or death. Some other ideas are push notifications, email notifications and such. But in no way would i rely on just c4 with an alarm

add the shairbridge driver, try to connect to that, if you can connect and play music to that than nothing wrong with the controller, so another question is just check your all your bindings again. try another phone, make sure your on same wifi if you dont have 4sight. after that im stumped i would have to see the actual project