Cbell

I agree with Don. That flow is way too long. It would be a much better experience if that functioned almost like the native dialer. Having had some experience with Integrating apps in my work environment, I know how difficult it is to get Apple to open up IOS in the name of security. And although Android is a lot more malleable, it’s always best to keep parity between Android and IOS whenever possible. So we may not see a change there any time soon. As for losing the intercom if we temporarily lost the Native App. I’ve only had my system for maybe three years now. I don’t recall many App failures. Maybe I wasn’t paying attention all that much in my early days. But I don’t recall many significant issues outside of the Certificate one. And I agree, all ideas aren’t good ones. But I haven’t seen many products increase user adoption by splitting functionality / features into multiple interfaces. Again... for those like myself where I love this stuff that’s great. However, everyone else in my house hold who interacts with it, and truly likes the solution, because it’s a frictionless approach to home automation, now has to think about what app and when. And what’s that ringing, etc... And back to Don’s point. By the time you unlock your phone and get into the intercom app, you’ve missed the call. I’ll end with the following. I suspect that most people use the intercom in the following ways: Room to room via T3. Mobile to Room. And... not necessarily T3 to mobile. Mobile to mobile. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

May not be. However, it is working. I’d gladly revise if you have another syntax you’d like me to try. But... it is currently working for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I see your point but disagree. Looking at your all in one analogy. Interesting enough ubiquity just released an all in one almost exactly as you’ve referenced. With that being said... In this golden age of Application development, and with some planning, I suspect they could pull the two code sets into parity, and then collapse it into one, without backing themselves into a dependency corner. It may because intercom anywhere was a long time coming, not having the same time in the market as the main app, and I believe consolidation will come once the dust settles from other initiatives (I.e Neo, CA-10, etc) and the SnapAV influence. Streamlining, on many levels, is inevitable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s what I have: Com.amazon.amazonvideo.livingroom#Intent;component=com.amazon.amazonvideo.livingroom/com.amazon.ignition.IgnitionActivityo;?;endo;? It seems pretty crazy but it works on every shield I have. And I have five of them. Hope if works out Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Instead of having two mobile apps on my phone I would like to have the Intercom anywhere app collapsed into the Control4 App. It makes it easier to create and communicate to the other family members how to interact with our Home and each other. Because I’m in the Apps all of the time I’m accustomed to their functionality. But it would definitely be a better experience collapsing it into one, and if I can continue to dream, it would be great if a long press and select to invoke the intercom from the mobile phone, or tie it to a key if it’s an Android device. That would be great! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I second that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Theres instructions on how to perform a debug (Network or USB) on Android. Once you setup the debug, you can launch the application which will show the App intent. I believe the instructions can be found in a Thread from Videostorm on the forum. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Android App intent is: Com.silicondust.view#Intent;component=com.silicondust.view/.MediaCodecPlayer;end Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have this working. Essentially I use the HDHomeRun mini app and changed the App intent. My Android App intent is: Com.silicondust.view#Intent;component=com.silicondust.view/.MediaCodecPlayer;end Works perfectly launching live channels instead of HDHomeRun directly. And.... with the latest update the guide button is properly mapped, so I’m extremely happy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I take (3) of the new first generation sensors and the 2nd gen sensor as well. If still available, send me a DM and I can submit payment Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ditto that. I would love if someone can give some use cases. This will help me determine how I may implement within my project. Also... if there’s any gaps with the native C4 offering, I’d be open to third-party suggestions as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m hoping to get rid of googles broadcast feature in favor of Control4’s Room intercom, but I don’t see any information that easily spells this out. The other option, which appears to be more flexible, is implementing Josh.ai. But I thought I’d see if there was an option with my current setup Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m currently using a trial version of Kodi Full driver and I’ve run into a couple of issues. What I’m using: - Nvidia Shield - IRUSB (chowmain driver) - Kodi Leia - HDHomerun (Live Channels) Issue experienced: - When Leveraging the Kodi Full driver if Kodi is running in the background and I’m watching TV if I attempt to bring up the guide, which is the “menu” button for the Live Channel UI, it doesn’t work. I checked the button mappings and there is no mapping set for “menu”, nor do I believe you can for the menu button. - Double clicking Guide button, no longer gives you the Android task menu, while single clicking the Guide button, no longer brings you to the Android Home screen. The guide mapping in the driver is unmapped. If I grab the Nvidia Shield remote get myself to native interface and shutdown Kodi, all functionality returns. Meaning: Live Channels guide via the menu button works, single click and double click of the guide button works as expected. Now... if there was a way to keep the features and still use the Kodi Full driver, I’m all for it. But I cannot find a way, either through remapping buttons, or shutting down Kodi when the “watch” button and a non kodi item is selected. But I can’t seem to accomplish this via programming. Ultimately my real desire to use the Kodi Full driver was the browsing of Kodi via the T3 and SR-260s for that matter. But if I can’t get it to play nicely, then I can’t use it. If someone can provide guidance to either getting the chowmain kodi driver to function, or offer another option to browse kodi tv / movie listings, that would be greatly appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Perfect... Thank You. This was going to be the first thing I was going to work on when I got home. You’ve saved me a ton of time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agreed... it would be awesome. I guess they had to sacrifice something with that form factor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Doesn’t the Pro version have two USBs? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just noticed that there was a difference between what PIP formats were available to you via Control4 verses what’s available to you from the VMM. If I look at the Device Specific Commands and select “start_video_OSD”, my options for format only go to 4. Whereas, the Virtual Matrix Control4 Screen, under “Video OSD (PIP), not only are there 8 formats selectable but the Formats when selected actually show on the sink as intended. Compared to Changes made between the different formats via Control4 have no impact to how it’s displayed on the sink. VMM version: 2.4.0 VRX_main: 1.9.8.0 NetplayTV: 2.2.2 Control4 OS: 3.1.0 Control4 VS Driver: not sure. It does have the “restart stream” option. Which may give someone an indication of what driver version I’m on. Hopefully I’m the only one with this issue. And... hopefully there’s a reason / fix. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m thinking this may not be the same issue because it would stand to reason that all of my LG TVs would be impacted... I think. For comparison: Master Bedroom TV (doesn’t work): Model #: 49UK6090PUA Firmware: 05.10.10 WebOSTV: 4.1.3-5720 LivingRoom TV (works): Model #: 60UJ6050-UA Firmware: 05.80.20 WebOSTV: 3.8.0-61206 So the difference in model number not-with-standing, do we believe that the difference in WebOS version; version 3.x vs version 4.x, may in fact be the problem? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On a slightly different note. Does anyone have issues with the Annex4 toast messages to their 2nd LG TV? All of my LG TVs adhere to the deployment guide for the Annex4 driver and I’ve been successfully sending toast popups to my living room tv without issue. But, when I attempt to send toss messages to the master bedroom tv, the TV gets “unpaired”, which ultimately kills the volume control etc. If I never send a toast message to the bedroom tv, the TV operates flawlessly. But just as soon as I attempt to include that TV in the toast message programming, it gets unpaired. Any thoughts? Could it be a binding setting or something? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking to purchase (2) Axxess Contact Sensors. Color doesnt matter Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk

In my case this contact sensor has no issue reaching the controller because I have multiple C4 light switches in a room that exits to the backyard, and is in close proximity to that gate. As for this Contact Sensors outdoor IP rating... I think in my case, the fact that the sensor is buried in the fence and is not directly exposed to the elements, I've had no issues over the two years it's been installed. Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk

I used this one: https://www.axxind.com/smarthome/contact-sensor/ The toast popup is handled via the Annex4 LG driver. Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk

I have this working with our backyard gate using a Contact Sensor from Axxess. In my case my fence is Vinyl so it was easy to insert the components inside the post making it pretty invisible unless you're looking for it. As for programming... A simple open and close with a toast popup appearing on the TV's and an E-mail sent for good measure. If the gate stays open for more than five minutes, the light switches colors are changed to red just for good measure. Although the gate auto closes, I decided to go the extra mile just to make sure our dogs don't get out by mistake. Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk

The problem, and im using the term "problem" loosely here, is that I have three boys who over the years we've acquired a number of consoles consisting of: (1) PS3 , (1) PS4, (1) PS2, (2) Nintendo Switches, (3) Xbox 360, (1) Xbox 1s, and (1) Nintendo Wii U. It was so much easier when the twins shared a room but that went out the window a couple of years ago. It would be great to centrally locate the community consoles and just switch it to the room who wants to play it. The alternative would be to either puchase additional consoles ( not a fan of), or for the kids to go and get the console and set it up in their room every time they want to play it. Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk

I'm a fan of both the Nvidia shield and video storm but I'm not sure the solution as characterized makes total sense. For instance, if I'm using the nvidia shield as a decoder for Video Storm, it's more than likely that I'll have one at every TV. If I then have an Nvidia Shield at every TV, therenis no reason to switch that stream because Gforce now, and / or Stadia would be local. Also... Lets keep in mind that Stadia is not slated to work on this generation of Shield hardware, so we are really just talking about; Steam, Gforce Now, and Epic, from the nVidia Shield as it stands today. Now...if someone can figure out the console matrix switching with the controller distance, most likely via a wired connection in order to get the input latency down and the correct correlation with the correct console, then I would be eternally greatful. Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk