Cbell

I try not to respond to rant posts but I’ve had the opposite experience. And alternatives do exist. Pull the Bandage off and rip it out if you aren’t happy. No sense keeping something you don’t want.

Are “we” now saying that there no need for my IRUSBs..?

Sorry for the late reply... but it’s working for me. I’ve successfully launched Kodi on 3 of my Nvidia Shields with IRUSBs.

I’ve been using the DS-2DE2A404IW-DE3 for about two years now. These are 4MP mini dome PTZ cameras. Solid choice.

I couldn’t find any details on the Control4 Chime and whether it was RTSP / ONVIF capable? I like it as currently constituted. But I would love it if I can get it working with Blue Iris and My Video Storm Matrix. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use the axxess occupancy sensor with the Humidity option which would allow you to add some additional logic to occupancy based on the humidity rising. So essentially, if they leave the bathroom and turn off the bathroom fan, and the humidity is above a predetermined number, you can have the fan come back on. And... once it drops to an acceptable number and occupancy is false, you can have the fan go off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have one micro setup. But... I don’t use Amazon so I can’t compare. However, in my opinion, it’s as tight of an “on-net” integration you can have between a voice assistant and C4. To me it’s only real drawback is it’s price, and compared to Google, it’s Natural Language Processing (albeit always improving), seems a little less to be desired. But to be able to trigger any C4 programming, not just lights, is a huge plus. For example... I can Tell Josh to “call / Broadcast / Intercom, etc” one of the kids rooms and it triggers programming that Initiates the living room T3 to intercom the their room and mute the living room and the kids Bedroom TV if they are on. Then when the call is over, the programming unmutes the TVs. Obviously the heavy lifting is done by C4, but I couldn’t get that level of integration with Google. Maybe you can with the Alexa Driver. Lastly... what drove me to Josh.AI was the fact that I was tired of the consumer offerings integrating and working well, and then because of some change with the API, the solution no longer works with Control4. That gets old pretty fast. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use the hikvision ds-hd1. It’s RSTP and ONVIF compatible. This combined with Video Storms Netplay Tv on nvidia shield, allows me to get PIP and full screen feeds from all of my cameras. It also plays well with the T3’s. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was working through this one as well. I also have ecobee, and thought that I would use a combination of a count down timer and a variable. The count down timer would be used to avoid shutting the HVAC down just because someone opened a window for two minutes. The variable would be used to determine if more then one window is opened, then shutdown the HVAC. If that cumulative variable drops down to an acceptable number which would represent the amount of Windows, then turn the unit back on. I had planned to also add an alert to send a window open toast pop up to the living room and bedroom TVs if they are on, on top of, sending an alert to the T3s and mobile phones if left opened too long. Lastly... I thought I would add logic to change the cool / heat set points based on the increase / Decrease of temperature and Humidity using some of the axxess contact and occupancy sensors. I thought the advantage of adding this logic would be a plus because the sun heats up different parts of the house as the day progresses. But... I haven’t committed to working this out just yet. I do have the snap shot driver but haven’t thought about how I could leverage it. I thought I could pull this off with a Variable / Count down timer and if statements. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Perfect... these are all acceptable options. Ultimately, in addition to a single view pane, I will be adding programming that will alert you if multiple windows are open, and if the Air conditioning is on or being turned on, it will keep the system off and alert as to what window is open so it can be closed before conditioning the outside world. You’ve got to love kids. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wanted to see if there was a way of creating a dashboard of some sort for my T3s. Essentially what I wanted to do was create a quick view of all of the window / door contact sensors to determine what is currently open. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I love this idea as well. Unfortunately I haven’t done anything great other than just tightening up some logic in existing programming. But... I think this thread will get the creative juices going again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m looking to purchase (3) NCZ-3011 Door / Window Contact Sensors. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wasn’t sure if I was missing something in programming but I wanted to know if the current chowmain IRUSB driver offered any feedback. Essentially I wanted to be able to determine which mini app was invoked or active for a room. The issue is that some mini apps on the nvidia shield pauses when I execute a Picture in picture via my Video Storm matrix. Netflix, HDHomeRun, Amazon Video, and Hulu all allow the Picture in picture to occur without pausing the video. Whereas, Kodi and Disneyplus both pause when the Picture in picture is invoked. In an ideal world I would like all of the Mini apps not to pause when PIP is executed. However, in the absence of that as an option, i could place a condition that checks to see which mini app is running before allowing the Picture in Picture. Ultimately... it is my desire to have my front of the house security camera on Blue Iris to send PIP whenever a certain zone is crossed. But unfortunately it would be a nuisance if it paused Kodi instead of overlaying to camera feed every time someone walked up the path. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have five Nvidia Shields (one 2019 Shield pro) all with IRUSBs, and I’ve had no issues. Lucky I guess. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No problem. I’m sure it will be my turn soon enough. [emoji4] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve done this for our bedroom T3. I have a scheduler running every night, and at 10pm I set the bedroom T3’s screen saver to “blank”. And then I have a schedule for 8:30am setting it back to date and time. It works well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was looking to do this and I was thinking of pulling the trigger on the hikvision ds-hd1 doorbell. From what I understand the DS-HD1 supports ONVIF, 2.4 & 5GHz WiFi, 1080p, and has two-way audio. So not only will you be able to send the video to any ONVIF compliant NVR, but depending on your customers project, you’d be able to send triggered events (leveraging Ryan’s Web driver & Blue Iris) to T3s, with object detection / zone crossing. Outside of the DS-HD1I haven’t seen any other wireless doorbell camera with comparable flexibility. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wasn’t sure if anyone else has experienced this issue but if I happen to be watching either Kodi or Disney Plus, and I send PIP to my Nvidia Shield (NetplayTV), it pauses the app. I don’t see this happening with Netflix, Amazon Video, YouTube, or Live Channels (HDHomeRun). Currently each Shield is using a Video Storm IRUSB (Version 2.1 ) with Chowmains driver. The reason I’d like the “pausing” to stop is because I have programming that sends PIP whenever BlueIris triggers an alert when someone has crossed a detection zone. It works well... just a pain in the butt if you’re watching Disney plus or Kodi. Which brings me to what I thought would be a possible solution in the absence of a fix. I thought a workaround would be for me to populate a variable whenever I selected Kodi or Disney Plus, and if that variable is “true”, representing that I’m watching either App, do not send the PIP to the TVs. Just send it to the T3 for that room. However... it doesn’t appear that the Mini Apps store status when selected. Not that I can tell. Thoughts or recommendations welcomed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I currently use the annex4 LG driver for all of our TVs and it works well. I’ve never had an issue with input, volume, or turning the tv on or off for that matter. Keep in mind though, you need to make sure that the TV is using a physical Ethernet connection. WiFi isn’t supported. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks... I’m a little surprised. Ethernet is always my preference, however with my use-case of being able to take it to the patio or away from the base within the house, having to enable the WiFi would be a pain in the butt. Considering lesser devices handle this (I.e Nvidia Shield TVs, Laptops, etc) without issue, I don’t think a performance hit is the hurtle. I will just opt for WiFi and resist my compulsion to hardwire whenever possible. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I looked at this again. After adding the APP info I provided in a previous post to my kids rooms it kept starting the HDHomerun app. I thought this was strang giving that the settings were the same in all four rooms, with the living room and Master bedroom settings launching Android Channels App. However, after looking at the system variables it is some what clear why two worked and two "didnt". Having that been said, below is the app intent to launch live channels. com.google.android.tv#Intent;component=com.google.android.tv/com.android.tv.TvActivity;end

I wasn’t sure if I was missing something but I Assumed that the table top T3, when on the base connected to Ethernet, would leverage the physical connection, and when you removed from the base, it would use its WiFi. However, when looking at it both in the T3 settings and via Composer, the WiFi is still active. What gives. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve been playing around with the trial copy of the driver with two of my Hikvision Mini PTZ (2DE2A404IW-DE3) camera’s, and so far... so good. But I do have one issue maybe someone can assist with. When viewing via the mobile app I can see both cameras “thumb view”, and when I select a camera, I get the live view along with PTZ control. Which is the desired behavior. However my T3’s I see the thumb view but if I select a camera it just spins and then times out never showing the live view. I’ve update the firmware for both camera’s and played around with the settings on the cameras to see if I can get it to show, but all I’ve done was break the mobile view, never successfully showing the live view for both the T3s and the C4 app. suggestions welcomed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It would be great if there was BlueIris support and PTZ camera control via SR260 arrows. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk