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What I have noticed, is if your system is setup right the first time, you wont be needing to call your dealer every day/week/month. With HE and when-then.... the customer does get a lot of flexibility with their system. 

Is the remote showing any changes when you press the red button or nothing at all happens

What driver are you using?

7 hours ago, jfh said:

The biggest downside to a CA-10 is price with an MSRP of $4000. @South Africa C4 user does indeed have a massive project.  I have what is probably considered a very large project (haven’t counted recently but somewhere between 150-250 drivers) but it’s one that should run well on my EA5 (and did on OS2).  The CA-10 is supposedly able to handle thousands.  
 

I’m sure I would see an improvement with a CA-10 and very likely to get one because the lags just drive me crazy.  Turning off a dimmer and watching the slider bar stagger down to zero just drives me nuts.  But it’s ridiculous that I should have to even consider it when the problem is almost certainly more related to OS3 than the processing power of the EA5.  I’m still hesitating because if I get a CA-10 and my system isn’t just instantly snappy, I will be upset to have paid a lot of $ for a marginal improvement.

If you have a CA-10 setup running only director, your system would speed up drastically.

It is supposedly 4x the processing power of the EA-5.

18 hours ago, LollerAgent said:

... or just get the Vizio IP driver - which is likely going to be easier and cheaper in the long run.  

Not super familiar with Vizio TVs.

Was just recommending to avoid using another brand driver and to use IR if no IP drivers could be found for that model.

Just do IR. Get a Z2IO if you don't have a controller near the TV. You will spend more time and headaches trying to make a sony driver somehow work.

Control4 usually recommends connections (bindings) with keypads before going to programming but both do work. 

Its the difference between making one connection from Keypad button 2 > Hallway Light, or having to program "when keypad button 2 is pressed/released > Then turn on hallway light." 

Does anything else fall offline when the Zigbee goes down? 

Are you able to use Control4 app? 

Does anything work?

By C4 speaker, what are you referring to? 

21 minutes ago, dinom said:

NEEO only supports 2.4GHz from what I’ve read. 

This is correct.

2.4 has a more widespread spectrum that penetrates materials better than 5 GHz which is why Control4 wanted to stay away from 5 GHz with the Neeo. 

26 minutes ago, South Africa C4 user said:

How does one change the WiFi Network on the Neeo? I want to try it on our 5G network and see if that is an improvement...

1. Turn off the remote, then press the physical power button to turn it back on again.
2. While the remote is starting up, press and hold the physical BACK button until you see the prompt, “Hi, nice to meet you."

You have to go through first time setup to make a network change. 

Just now, Cart said:

Control4 usually recommends to stay away from ISP router. Typically on Do Not Use list as it can lead to problems. 

 

Araknis is what Control4 recommends and supports so I don't see the benefits in changing out for the ISP.

27 minutes ago, gldnk9 said:

 just using the router that came with the internet service.

Control4 usually recommends to stay away from ISP router. Typically on Do Not Use list as it can lead to problems. 

30 minutes ago, zaphod said:

How does the Zigbee mesh fit into all of this?  If said 10,000 ft^2 has dimmers and keypads in each room doesn't that strengthen the Zigbee network?  Or do you still need another controller (aside from the number of devices per controller)?

Sorry if it seems like I am being a jerk, I am just trying to understand how the Zigbee network works.

Yes and No. 

More devices does increase the zigbee network but only up to a certain point. Each zigbee device talks to each other via hops.

So if you have your EA-3 and you have 3 light switches all increasing in distance for example, and you tell control4 you want to turn off Light switch 3;

The EA-3 would then find the best possible route to get to Light Switch 3. Since there is only 3 lights and 1 path, EA-3 tells Light Switch 1 to tell Light Switch 2 to tell Light Switch 3 "turn off".

Then Light Switch 3 tells Light Switch 2 to tell Light Switch 1 to tell EA-3 "Light 3 is turned off". 

Each hop takes a few ms and therefor the more devices you add (and typically they will start to get further away from the Zigbee Server) will slow the basic functions like lights down.

Now the reason we say more switches are better for a zigbee network, is because it allows for more ROUTES of hops and expands the mesh to a certain point. Meaning the EA-3 can look at all the devices in its mesh and decide what is the fastest and best route to take in order to have the least hops and fastest communication. 

Adding zigbee devices to increase the range and distance of the mesh does work but like I said, at some point it will just be too many hops and too much for 1 mesh.

The further away you go, the more hops you need to get there which means you will start to see a slowdown of zigbee as devices get further away.

Hopefully that made sense ^

I have experience using DamIT and they are excellent. Highly recommend and support by C4.

I would suggest having your dealer take a look at your programming and see if something is causing it from there.

Control4 recommends to not use ZAP servers anymore. 

You would just create completely separate Zigbee Server on each new controller.  

Example:

A 10000sqft home needs multiple zigbee servers as 1) they most likely have more than 70 devices, and 2) the strength of the zigbee network decreases the further away you go from that controller. In a project, we used an EA-5 to run just director in the basement rack. Not running zigbee at all, just a dedicated director to speed up the system. Then we added EA-1 behind TV's for OSD and of course zigbee mesh. In spots that had weak signals, adding CA-1 fixes that. 

Zigbee needs to be setup correctly otherwise your whole system is bogged down. The correct way is multiple zigbee servers spread across the house covering every sqft similar to a wifi network. 

I second the Ecobee and TP-Link suggestion.

Both are great products.

Ecobee has free drivers in Control4 Database. 

The TP-Link driver referred to above is excellent and not super expensive.

I would recommend definitely adding an EA-1 behind the TV and have your dealer separate out the Zigbee Servers so now you will have 2 zigbee servers (I would only do this step if you have a number of zigbee devices. Control4 recommends no more than 70 zigbee devices on one mesh. If you are close to that number, then add that second server.) 

I would talk to your dealer as they are the ones who can guide you in the right direction.

Also there is no negative to adding another controller. It will only speed up your system (either director or zigbee) if programmed correctly. 

I am not certain on this but I know people in the past have used them on 2.10 so I am assuming you may be able to use it if you don't update your system. 

But I would highly recommend the Z2IO. It is a very very good product.

Could be programming or the driver properties. I would ask your dealer to login and check it. Should be a very quick fix. If you need more assistance I could take a look.

MyQ does show feedback but some of my customers have noticed issues with delayed feedback and no feedback at all when opening it from another source not C4. I would recommend a zigbee contact sensor on the bottom (some do bottom and top so you can know if its half open) or a garage tilt sensor.

Here is the programming using AV room control as an example.

Room Control Driver in living room for example

Programming > When Living Room Room Control enters watch or listen mode (From Room Control Driver) > Then Select your keypad > Select your Button from the drop down > Change your color in the box to the right > and select Set Led Current. 

For an alarm you could do, When Alarm is armed > Set Led current again.

If you wanted something like that, I know some people have the doorbird door station and then add the door chimes wherever they need them across their home. Doorbird has pretty decent integration with a 3rd party driver. Of course that is a whole new investment. But for your case, Alexas can not do that.

10 minutes ago, dynafox said:

Hello everybody

Can an app be started directly via the Apple TV driver? e.g. Netflix ...
Like Amazon Fire.
Thank you very much.

No, apple tv driver doesn't have mini apps. Roku has the best mini app integration followed by firestick in my personal opinion.