BY96

Once I changed the DNS servers to 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4, the Core 3 came back online and has worked consistently ever since. Prior to switching routers, I wrote down all the static IPs I needed, especially for Control4. I have very few other problems making the transition, but the DNS servers were the big issue. Thanks for checking in!

I am really needing some advice/help. I believe my dealer is out of the country and my Control4 is unreachable. On the Core 3, the far right light is blue, but not any other light. I have tried rebooting the Core 3, but the same thing happens. The only thing I did new today was replace my Netgear router with an Araknis 220 but the Core 3 was working fine after the change was made. It just stopped working a few minutes ago. The network is running fine with internet. I can successfully ping the Core 3's IP address. I tried a network reset and while the link light came on for a second, it turned then turned off and I was still not connected. I am not sure what to do. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Update - After reviewing some old threads here, I remembered I had entered static DNS in the router. I moved it back to dynamic, but that didn't seem to help, but looking here, someone recommended 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4. I tried that, and eventually the Core 3 came back online. Any thoughts or suggestions for static DNS? Thanks

That makes sense. It is a little more expensive then their cheapest routers, so I wasn't sure if I could just bypass the router feature of the others, but for simplicity, the CloudKey does seem best.

Would that give me regular access to my APs without accessing the other devices on the cloud account? I don't mind buying one of these devices to manage the APs locally.

Thank you! Can you help me understand why it is the right option? I am so confused how these different devices are similar/different.

I hope someone can give me a little advice. I recently moved from a Netgear system to a Araknis 220 router and Araknis 220 POE 24-port switch. My dealer recommended Unifi APs, so I installed three of the new WiFi 7 ones. In reading more about the Unifi APs, I have learned that while the APs can work independent of the Unifi-ecosystem, there are more options if a have a Unifi Controller running. I installed the Mac network software and really like the options it gives me for monitoring and controlling the APs. However, I am not sure I want a computer running 24/7. I realize the software does not have to be on all the time, but Unifi does recommend it for monitoring purposes. Here is my question - What Unifi controller could I buy to run the software without needing a router or other features? I have found the Cloud Gateway Ultra (which is a great price), the UniFi Express, the CloudKey+, and the Gateway Lite, but cannot tell from the descriptions on their website if any of these would work to run the controller while leaving the router duties to Arakanis. Thanks for any help! Update - I just found this table online. Looks like all the options can manage the APS, and the Cloud Key G+ and the computer software are the only two that do not include routers. However, some of the other options, even with routers, are cheaper, so I don't know if I can bypass the router function in one of those. https://lazyadmin.nl/home-network/unifi-controller/

This driver is specific for this purpose: https://drivercentral.io/platforms/control4-drivers/utility/apple-shortcuts/ You can also use: https://drivercentral.io/platforms/control4-drivers/utility/generic-tcp-command-control4-driver-chowmain/

I checked in the Shelly app, a few of the flood sensors were not up to date on firmware, but they weren't necessarily the ones sending the false push notifications. I updated them all and can test later. If the problem continues, I will submit a support ticket. Thanks for your help!

I have Kasa plugs and Chowmain driver too, but I don't have any push notifications related to them.

I am liking that it is just not me...

I really hadn't thought about it, but I do think all the false push notifications I get after a reboot are for Shelly devices (with the Chowmain driver). I don't remember seeing other push notifications coming through.

I have noticed that whenever I do a reboot of the Core3 (main controller) in my system, after it comes back online, Control4 sends random push notifications that I have programmed. For example, I have push notifications for when Shelly water sensors detect water. Any time I reboot, I end up getting several false water detection notifications, sometimes even 2 hours later. I check in the Shelly app, and there has not been any water detected, so again, the notifications are clearly false. And I don't get false notifications otherwise, only after a reboot. Any ideas why this is happening? It isn't a big deal, as I can ignore the notifications, but it is strange.

I tried using pictures of the actual rooms but could never get one that I liked both vertical and horizontal. Any picture that looked good on a tablet looked awful on the iPhone app. I ended up doing room details, like a close-ups of the backsplash kitchen tile or bathroom wallpaper. Still not entirely happy with it, but it works for now.

I am glad to know it isn't me, but I assume it is not a common problem either. The weirdest thing is that the rooms I found turned on in HE were not rooms recently used for music. Seemed to be random.

I recently installed a 16x16 Triad matrix along with two 8-zone Triad amps (125 watt version). I am really happy with the setup but encountered an issue today and wondered if anyone had any ideas. I noticed that one of the two amps was on this morning so I checked the C4 app and didn't see any music playing in any of the zones. I figured it was just a misfire in the 12v trigger, so I turned off the matrix (which turned the amp off) but when the matrix started back up, the amp turned back on too. Again, no zones were playing music per the C4 amp. I then checked the matrix in HE and noticed that three zones were showing as playing in that the icon was green on the individual zone in the matrix setup. I then went into the C4 app and turned on music in each of those three zones and then shut down each zone. Then, the trigger on the matrix turned off, as did the amp. Anyone know why three zones would be turned on in the matrix but not showing anything playing in the C4 amp? Any ways to shut down all zones in the matrix without having to go to HE?

That is a great idea. Thanks!

The beta works fine. Someone here can probably get you a copy.

I was going to chime in that I don't loose Ecobee connection when I reboot my controller, but having rebooted the controller a few days ago, I went and checked and yep, the account was no longer linked! This is good to know for when I do the rare reboot.

Let me see if I can help a bit. Regarding the second issue, with the Chowmain TCP driver, you could program that a "play" command in the room sends an "ok" command. I honestly use "ok" to start movies and have my lighting triggered differently. I have attached the list of IP commands for the Zidoo that can be used with the TCP driver. As for the menu you asked about, honestly, I think I have just ended up using the Zidoo remote. But there may be an IP command for that menu in the list. I haven't looked. Zidoo IP Protocol.pdf

If you send me a PM with your e-mail address, I can e-mail you the latest driver. The one on the Zidoo website is a little older but someone sent me the latest one. I think the one on C4's driver website is even older.

Interesting. According to the document, there is no way yet for existing customers to change to Connect from 4Sight. Wonder if that will be figured out before the April 23 start date.

New sections on the C4 website: https://www.control4.com/o/assist https://www.control4.com/o/connect

Just so that I make sure I am following this thread correctly, right now, if I were to have my dealer install 3.4.1, I would not be able to connect with HE, but a fix is on the way? Thanks!

I am using a Triad One in my Family Room both for music and videos. My kids use that room to watch their movies and shows and have been complaining that they have to raise the volume for dialogue but then turn it down for background music in the movies they watch. I checked the equalizer and found I had it set to "Rock." I noticed that there are no movie presets, only ones for music, so I changed it to "Flat" and then raised 64Hz a bit, and 125Hz and 250Hz even higher, leaving all other ranges alone. It does seem to help some. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks!

That makes sense. When it is recording, it will say so in the Properties tab for the driver. Same when it is running.