brucecampbell

I've got two Gen 2 dots. (i'm assuming they are gen 2 because their software version matches what Amazon states as Gen 2 latest) I got them shipped to NZ several years ago using a NZ Postal Service 'you shop' account, which is basically a PO BOX locally in USA. Freight to NZ was generally pretty fast and cheap for small items. Not sure if prices have shot up in the current environment?? They are now freely available in NZ from retail shops. What driver are you referring to with 'V2' ? From memory the Voice Scene driver in C4 is V75 And I think the epic driver I have might be V110? Cheers.

I'm using C4 control. I do have the Epic driver, I stopped using it when it became unsupported with V2.9. Now that I'm on OS3, I believe I can use it again - so I might give it a try.

Do you use C4's control or the Epic driver?

What has gone wrong with your 300? Mine failed due to the power supply. I was able to replace the power supply very easily and all was fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I quite often ask Alexa to turn off my kitchen lights. Kitchen lights is an advanced lighting scene which ramps six dimmers to zero over five seconds. I often get a response ‘Sorry, kitchen lights is not responding’ just as the lights turn off. I don’t get this response asking for single lights to turn on or off. I’m wondering how Alexa handles scenes. And how she determines if her action was completed by control 4 Anyone know?? Does she think the task was not executed because the lights are technically still on for a few seconds after she executes the task?? Or does Alexa get a success: true /false response like a normal API works? And perhaps the request is simply timing out? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for confirming. I’m now finding some movies on Netflix are not in Dolby digital either. I always assumed it was pretty standard since the 90’s. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just assumed YouTube videos demoing 5.1 and 7.1 etc were in this format. Everything I’m reading online now is saying YouTube used to offer this sound feature but no longer does. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m watching The Matrix scenes on Netflix now to prove 5.1 is working Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi. Tv is Panasonic TH 55FX640 I’ve been playing around with Netflix on Roku, Apple TV and the Panasonic TV Looks like I’m getting Dolby 5.1 with Netflix but not with YouTube. All three sources provide sound to the receiver via the tv optical out. Trying to research YouTube and found some info saying YouTube supports 5.1 but recorded it to 2.0. Not sure why there are so many Dolby test videos on there? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Upon further testing, My receiver says PCM 48 when I turn on the TV as the source. TV is the audio source for ROKU. ROKU to TV via HDMI The TV is connected to the receiver via Optical Out -> Optical to Coaxial converter -> Coaxial in Why is my receiver only getting a PCM signal when Roku(Youtube) is playing a dolby digital video? Anyone with any ideas please?

Yeah. Wife’s phone. She never noticed it never came up on the update list and was never used much due to us only using AirPlay at home. Only when I tried to get connect working today did I realise something was wrong. Even when you closed the app the music kept playing... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mystery solved. Spotify on the android was V2. It was not even showing up in the update/installed apps list. Uninstall and reinstall V8 and we are now working. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes the same local network and the same premium Spotify account. Android is galaxy S7 Are there any android os versions which won’t work? Too old?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've just had Spotify Connect added to my system. We have three IPhones and two Androids in the house. From within the Spotify App; The IPhones are displaying the connect options per room. The Androids are not. Any advice on getting the androids working? Should the room's connect be visible from the Spotify App on Android? Thanks.

Could do. But I like the idea of the exact event being the trigger for the alert when it comes to the security system. I think I have got it sorted. Looks like the Armed_Type change allows me to program what I want. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been upgraded to OS3, and with it, I had my DSC driver upgraded to the Cinergration IT-100 driver V2 My old driver would be 'Armed' after the exit delay is complete. The new driver shows as 'Armed' at the begining of the exit delay. What is the best way to program events upon exit delay complete and alarm actually armed?

Here is a pic of the connections if it helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Two instances of the Apple TV Gen1-3 IP driver One named 'Apple TV' The other 'Karaoke' Apple tv is connected to the lounge tv on HDMI1 only Karoke is connected to the lounge tv on HDMI3 and to the receiver 'CD input' with Optical out. The IR code for HDMI1 and HDMI3 for the TV has been set up to be the same (HDMI1) TV switches to the correct input. Receiver remains on the TV's input, does not switch to 'CD' when selecting Karaoke. Ill see if I can get a pic of the bindings - I have a print out somewhere

I’ve got an Apple TV used for two purposes. 1 movies and airplay (audio comes from tv and output in 5.1) 2 Karaoke (audio come from Apple TV via mixer to receiver and output in stereo) Prior to upgrading from 2.9 to 3.1.2 it all worked fine. Now my receiver does not switch to the karaoke input. Binding we’re still present after the upgrade. Is there anything in the new OS which might cause issues here? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I tried some Dolby sound tests on YouTube. The surround channels are coming out my front speakers. Yet when I watch movies we do get surround sound. I got the same results using Roku, AppleTv and the actual Panasonic smart tv. Not surprising given they all provide sound to the receiver via the tv’s single digital out. Receiver is HK AVR255 which defaults to Logic 7. Is this logic 7 getting in the way or am I probably not actually getting Dolby 5.1 when watching anything from these sources? Cheers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks. Up and running now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, I appreciate you help on this one. I just remembered I changed the configuration a year or so back due to this kind of problem. I previously used the NC connection, and all worked fine for years. Then it would trigger seemingly randomly and my driveway lights were coming on all hours of the night. I changed to use NO and all was working ok for a long time. I've now tested the cable and one of the 6 wires has no reading - so is broken somewhere - bugger! The other five read ok - but perhaps there is more damage causing some loss of voltage?? Anyway, I will push on with using the external power supply and see if that provides enough power to run this properly. Would really appreciate the diagram when you have time. Cheers.

Your dealer can see in the project what gen/versions your hardware is. But if you look at the physical aspects - there are clear differences between the early lighting hardware and the existing stuff.

Thanks for the help. 1. Yes I have 6 conductor, but 2 are used for the power supply, as this is located in the rack along with the controller. The other 4 are paired up and used for the sensor contact. 2. using an external power supply sounds like a good option for me to try. Any reasons I can't just steal power directly from the sensor? ie:

I’ve run another test tonight. The contact on the beam sensor is reading 11.45V and shorting is not activating the lights. Occasionally the voltage reached 11.7 and this was enough for the controller to respond. Is there a way to boost the voltage? Can I steal power from the supply to the beam sensor? Or just add in another power supply? How? Any risks? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk