brucecampbell

Done. Thanks.

You have to be quick to get the good deals aye! Green blocks - ok got ya now. - yeah would be a pain without these. Cheers.

The one I was looking at just sold unfortunately. I'm fine with rack or feet. have not noticed any green chocolate blocks in the pics - why?

Hi, I'm looking at getting a used HC-800-BL to use the RS232 and Contacts so I can get rid of my HC-300 and potentially upgrade to OS 3 1. I have an HC800 running as the primary controller already - I take it another HC800 is not a problem? 2. What considerations do I need before buying from ebay? - as long as the firmware version is equal or lower than my current firmware version?? Thanks.

Can anyone tell me what price these Z2IO are please?

Thanks, will look into this - 4 contacts would help, just not so many of these going cheap on ebay.....

Help please. Can I connect an old CXM-RCR1-B to my current set up? I'm on version 2.9.1 Thanks.

The TV has three choices: Auto PCM Dolby Digital I always believed PCM was best as this is uncompressed and would allow the receiver to play in the best format available based on what the source had available? Is having the setting as PCM actually restricting the output and therefore potentially playing a lower quality sound format??

So is PCM the best option for my TV audio output? Would I gain or lose anything by changing this setting to Dolby Digital? I always thought PCM was the best as it is uncompressed. My receiver is pretty old, so no Atmos, but it does have decoder for DTS, Dolby Digital, Pro Logic II

Just after some info from all you AV experts out there please. I used to have all my TV sources from top set boxes: Sky TV DVD Netgear EV Karaoke etc... Which made life simple as each source was a different physical connection into the AV Receiver and I could set the audio options per input. Now I pretty much solely use the apps on the TV. I have digital audio out from the TV back to the receiver in the rack. The receiver's audio option is set to 'Auto' for this input's audio option The TV's audio out is set to PCM I notice good theatre sound when watching Netflix moves and a recent movie streamed from Disney+ via an iPhone. However an app for our local TVNZ and also YouTube videos don't seem to be that great sound. How does it all work? With the receiver on 'Auto' how does it select if it will play DTS or Dolby 5.1 or 5ch stereo or ... ? TV: Panasonic TH-55FX640 Receiver: Harmon Kardon AV255 Thanks.

Not sure of any other source material for you to read, I personally have not read any of the manuals. And I personally do not use Break in any of my coding. Stop will exit the function immediately so no other code is executed: Break can be used to exit the current clause you are in (If or While loop) If you are like me and prefer to use macros to execute very specific single routines, then you will find your functions are very short and you never need to use Break

Ah, so not the latest model - well I can't really complain..... I've been through the menu on the TV and can't find anything to allow set up of control from another device. A comparison of the F v G manual shows G with 'smart home' features, F has no mention so I may be out of luck!

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How do I find out if my new TV can be controlled via IP? My 5 year old 4K TV died, Panasonic were great and simply replaced it with the latest model! My new model is TX-55FX640Z, however it does not appear to have a C4 driver already available. But there is an IP driver for a model TX-55GX640Z I'm guessing I need to edit some IR codes to get it working, would love to use IP but I can't find much info on IP control options....

Turns out the problem was a broken wire. luckily I had run 6 core alarm cable and had two spare, so I could just change the wire. The broken wire was still allowing about 2-4 volts, slight fluctuations must have been triggering the contact.

Thanks, I'll run some tests on the wires over the weekend. still pretty confused as to why it does not work with the HC800. - my garage door sensor is working fine in SIG 4 but changing to the driveway sensor got no response at all... I do have some other sensors I could wire up temporarily to see if that eliminates the problem.

Thanks for the input. The sensor is powered by an independent power supply, it is solely the contact I am having trouble with. excluding the power supply, I have two wires. Wire 1 from HC300 12V to Sensor COM Wire 2 from HC300 SIG to Sensor NO This set up works - when the sensor beam is broken, the sensor alarm light glows and the HC300 registers the contact and my programming is run (lights go on). The reason I am debugging is I am getting loads of false triggers. So I tried moving the contact to my HC800 - but this did not work at all - so I figured maybe my HC800 is already using too much amps for the other relays and contacts - which got me thinking maybe the HC300 can't handle sending 12V along a 160+ mtr loop of thin alarm wiring - so wondering if a boost would help - (if possible) It could simply be a fault in the sensor - but I am not sure why the HC800 would not work for this set up when I have 3 others working fine.

I have a beam sensor at the entrance to my driveway. One of these cheapies to be precise: https://www.ebay.com/itm/100M-Dual-Beam-Photoelectric-Infrared-Detector-Sensor-Alarm-Home-Garden-Security/352735894912?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Dc3dfb5eaa12a481ab904fe4a7caf2cd1%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D352735894912%26itm%3D352735894912%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Ad5131dbe-121e-11ea-be73-74dbd180a978|parentrq%3Ab3bb39eb16e0ac3c5e06ade6ffdb887e|iid%3A1 It is plugged into an HC300 via 12V and SIG I have recently started to get false triggers through out the day and night - which is annoying as it turns on lights. At first I thought it could be my HC300 starting to pack it in - as I have already replaced the power supply - so maybe other parts are coming to an end. So I plug it into my HC800 to test - however it does not even work on the HC800 - so I'm thinking perhaps the cable is too long (~80 mtrs each way) and the problem is voltage loss. Is there an easy way to add external power supply to the 12V - SIG loop for contacts? (assuming voltage loss is to blame here) Thanks.

I have this as an option too - mine is called 'Lounge TV' and it simply goes directly to the Apps menu and allows full control of the TV so you can select Youtube, Netflix or what ever. I also have 'Netflix' as an option in the watchlist - but all this does is load the app on the TV then return the room to 'Lounge TV' I'm yet to decide if I add all the apps as options in the watch list, might wait for the family to determine the value of it...

I have an HC800 as my main controller and I use Apple TV all the time - I use the IP driver - not sure why you think you need a new controller for this? mind you, my ATV is not the latest - Gen 3 I think - are there issues with the newer version with the IP Driver?

Just wondering how everyone out there handles their Watch-List. It used to be simple - each watch list item was a physical source such as Sky TV, DVD, Apple TV, NetGear etc... But now we have multiple apps on one source such as NetFlix, LightBox, YouTube and various other local apps. Should I have a source in my watch list called 'Lounge TV' and then navigate manually to select the app I want to use? Or should I have each app as an item in my Watch List and have C4 automatically open this app? I will probably go with a combination of both - ie: Netflix has a mini driver so I can have the icon on my navigators. What are the pros and cons How does everyone else handle this? Thanks.

I was reading this thread thinking - Great, they are looking into it.... then I saw this was from 2016... I still have this problem about every 1 in 5. Alexa says the device is not responding, then the command is executed... very slow first command, then second and third seem to complete much quicker.

If the lights are unresponsive from any interface - remote, app, six button, Composer - then probably time to call your dealer. Sorry - can't think of anything to help at this stage.

Thanks - for some reason I was assuming the MR16 were DC input - but spot on - they are AC so no issues here - just need to get a converter for my step lights which are DC. Thanks Alan.

Not specifically C4 - but C4 is running the switching for me... Hoping some of the smart people here can help me with some answers please. So I have three garden light transformers - the old style outputting 12VAC I changed from halogen bulbs to LED many years ago and all has seemed fine. I add some more small step lights to a circuit and suddenly I notice the new LEDs are flickering. I then realize these are DC LED's running on an AC power source. Questions: 1. Why are most of my LED bulbs working fine - no noticable flicker - These are your stock standard MR16 bulbs you use to replace the 12V 50W halogen in your home. 2. Am I likely to be damaging my LED bulbs? 3. Am I likely to be damaging my Transformers? Note: the total Watt is low - only about 35W - 50W on a 150W transformer