drmark12pa

I have several of the older dimmers (101 and 102 models).... It seems that one "end" of the rocker doesn't want to "click" or work. I assume when this happens there is no salvaging the switch?

It's the 3.2.4 version but it did it on the last version before recent update as well..... Haven't tried any other computer because I only have my laptop as remote.

Moving into new house and reprogramming my old C4 equipment in the house now.... Just need some clarification on the keypad dimmer settings for the keypad. It seems when I am trying to control the light (top button in 2,1,1,1,down,up configuration, I can't get the LED to light up correctly (green for on, red for off). I haven't gone into actual Composer programming the LEDs which I have done previously but wondering if it's easier to set the BUTTON BEHAVIOR and LED BEHAVIOR without having to do programming. However, it seems that when I do TOGGLE LOAD the light turns on/off but the LEDs don't change accordingly even when I check FOLLOW LOAD.... I've tried multiple combinations but can't seem to just use these settings to get both the light working AND the LEDs to correspond to on/off state. It would seem that if I have TOGGLE LOAD (button behavior) and FOLLOW LOAD (LEDs) set that should automatically do what it should but this is clearly not working like I would expect. Also, does FOLLOW CONNECTION have to be set up by dealer in Composer Pro? I don't see a way to make a "connection". I suppose I will just have to program in Composer if these settings aren't doing the trick?

For the last 2 months at least I've been having issues with remote access using Composer HE. When my EA5 shows up on the host name list, the ADDRESS listed is not the normal IP address of my controller and the STATUS says "Unable to communicate with project". If I click on the controller, it says "Unable to connect to xx.xxxx.xx.xxx. Verify this is a valid controller and try again". If I hit refresh, then the controller disappears from the list. Both my dealer and Control4 said they could access my system remotely without any issue. It doesn't matter what internet I'm using as I've tried to access from several locations. I'm on latest firmware, I've uninstalled and reinstalled Composer at least 5 times. It always used to work so I could work on my system when not at home.

Not really an option to add spots.... Just was hoping I could put a keypad dimmer in place of one of the load switches and not use the dimming function.... not sure if that would work by programming one of the other buttons tying it to the load so it doesn't dim but then program a different button just to turn light on/off.

I am in the process of adding my C4 switches to my new home that I removed from previous home. I have come across an issue in the garage. There are 2 sets of overhead T8 tube lights which I have converted to LED tube lights. These are controlled by the primary switch and a three-way switch (The primary switch is next to the door leading into the garage the other switch is by the back door out of the garage). I would like to place a configurable keypad as you step into the garage but the only options for the configurable keypad are the keypad dimmer and the auxillary configurable keypad (which wouldn't control the load) so I am not sure how this would work with these type of circuits..... Any ideas on how to add a configurable switch in place of a simple switch on a nondimming circuit that is a 3 way?

I just moved into a new home this week and brought my C4 equipment with me. However, there are many more 3 way lights (ie there are 3 banks of can lights in kitchen!) in this new house which proves a problem since I do not have a lot of auxillary keypads for the other end of the 3way (I had a couple in my old house that I took with me). I am wondering what my options would be if I put a keypad dimmer or a standard dimmer on the load end, what would be required on the other end to make the 3way work properly with C4 equipment? I don't relish the idea in the kitchen of having 3 dimmers on one end and an additional 3 auxillary keypads on the other unless the other end were for example wireless keypads.

Solved

These were already programmed.... so that makes sense then why the programming is probably overriding the direct button usage... thanks! I will reset until the EA5 is back running things

I need some help quickly. I had several keypad dimmers installed for some bathrooms at the new house I'm moving into. However my current EA 5 won't be installed until next week and I thought you could control the loaded connected to the dimmer without C4 but apparently that does not seem to be the case? Is there any way to control a light load without C4 online?

Can Kodi be set up on a Roku?

As noted and another thread I like other people of been having some trouble with control for controlling my Sony TV that is a newer TV. There is some sluggishness to the interface it would appear. Even more so is the sluggishness when trying to use the built in apps on the Sony with C4 (ie Netflix, Sling TV, Disney+ etc). I am wondering what C4 users are using for media streaming on their TVs. Is it best to just get a dedicated medial player such as a Firestick? I do have 2 Nvidia Shield boxes that I use on my AV matrix for the house but want something that is 4K since my matrix is only 1080p

duh... .just saw the 240V!

What is Control4® Square Dual Load Wireless Switch, 240V (C4-SDSW240-N)? Would that work?

I'm moving into a new (2008) home that has combination Lutron switches that have both fan and dimmer control on the same switch. I will be migrating all of my Control4 hardware to the house so trying to plan ahead on swapping whatever I can using my current hardware. My current master bedroom has a C4 fan controller and a C4 configurable dimmer.... so trying to figure out what to do about these Lutron switches (which aren't overly cheap either). Does Control4 have some combo option such as this sort of using the 2 separate fan controller and configurable keypad that can control the 2 loads? The dilemma would be cutting another outlet box into the wall I'm assuming.

Is there a way to get the Houselogix driver? I have the Chowmain driver and if the Houselogix driver is faster it might be worth trying out.

Is there a way to get the Houselogix driver? I have the Chowmain driver and if the Houselogix driver is faster it might be worth trying out.

I'm not sure how you set it up using IP address. There is the LIFX driver that links to LIFX but not directly to the IP address of the light bulb. Do you know some other way of setting it up using the actual IP address of each bulb?

The LIFX respond in a decent response time but you can't hit buttons repeatedly and expect a rapid response. I think it has to do with Control4 talking with the LIFX cloud is you are wanting them to know what the other one is doing say for brightness level and such.

I don't use the switched outlet typically (no avoiding the switch that controls the lights) and have been using the LiFX driver but there is clearly a delay between command response time. If I program a remote button to decrease the brightness by say 20, the lights will not decrease rapidly if I keep tapping the button as an example. There is a lag even acknowledged by Chowmain. What I did was begin using a variable to control the light but this isn't without a lag as well. Everything is set up correctly but the problem is the lag between the LIFX server and via Control4. I don't believe that is fixable. I did have the Phillips Hue lights but those werent as responsive from what I remember and the LIFX seemed far more flexible. Overall the LIFX have been good just not as snappy as say controlling them via the LIFX app when Control4 is involved.

I'm purchasing a new home in next month and likely updating the outside downlighting that uses BR30 can light type of bulbs. Looking for recommendations on best RGB bulb for this. I currently have been using LIFX bulbs in my current home. The issue with C4 is the delay in response time to commands as well as the inability for C4 outlets to control the bulb itself as the bulbs have to have constant power of course to respond to commands or control via the LIFX app. Any recommendations for RGB lighting in a house that seems to cooperate with Control4 the best?

I've also been having issues lately with my larger Sony losing connection... I've kept on Simple IP which seems to allow for more commands (like screen off for example) but if I switch to WEB then back to SIMPLE IP it seems to come back online.... Might need to switch to IR at this point.... the IP control when it is working is also sluggish at best

I'm on the latest OS as of this weekend.... I may have to do some experimenting as it seems that they've added functionality since I was using the native driver and switched over to the Epic driver as I wanted the ability to "SET" volumes and such but these functions appear to be in the native driver now.

I've been using Epic's C4 driver for quite some time but it was mentioned by Epic that most have moved to Control4's native Alexa driver. I have used that in the past but it was slower and very limited in the commands. However, I'm wondering if C4 has updated their driver to be more responsive and respond to more commands. Originally, it couldn't control/set volume in a room and now it does? Just wondering what people are using.... With the Epic driver I've programmed a huge list of commands that I've been using with previously excellent response but it seems to be less reliant and thinking about moving back to C4 driver if it is able to perform.

I've been having the issue this week of Alexa saying ok and not actually doing anything. It seems fairly intermittent as I can say the same command 3 times and then it triggers on 3rd time for example I'm using the Epic driver for most of my Alexa commands but some use the native Controls driver.