TundraSonic

Bingo! That worked. Thank you. 

Most likely the store selector wasn't set properly. Change it from houselogix to blackwire and see if it activates. 

Please note your license status of invalid. That is why it's not working. 

My dad had a switched lamp plug in his office. I plugged his hotspot/router into that plug and made big labels for the switch: Internet ON and Internet OFF. Worked for years and years. Probably saved them from getting scammed when he started going downhill. HIs wife would just "turn off the Internet" and leave it off. 

Unfortunately,  I'm Level 2 Help Desk for everything and anything IT/AV related for my extended family .   I wish I could give them @Köhler Medientechnik  on speed dial but they are not part of his 1% German target market   and the first hourly rate that was quoted they would need an AED to revive them!   

Yeah, but that's 99% of the population.  And FWIW, wealthier people can be the most irritated by the nickel & dime nonsense of paying someone to do something that they can more easily do themselves.  
ITS NOT JUST THE MONEY though. It's also the time. It often takes more of my time to explain something to someone than to simply do it myself. And then there's the time waiting on the integrator to have time to do it. This all gets multiplied when it's a trial and error thing which is very common in programming and UI.
As I've said before, I don't at all mind paying someone for knowledge that they have that I do not nor do I mind paying for someone's time when I'm short on it. But I get extremely irritated when, for example, I have to write an email to my integrator to create or delete a connection, wait on them to have time to do it, and then pay them for that when I could have done it much faster myself. 
I'm somewhat OK with driver installation, but I get irritated when I buy a new Hue or LIFX lamp and have to wait on my integrator to tell C4 that I have it (and pay them to do it).  Compare that to Siri or Alexa that allow me to control them immediately with zero hassle.
I don't disagree with a lot of the DIY stuff. But you're thinking 1980's instead of 2020's. First, the people are different and are much more use to technology, more tech savvy and having tech do stuff for them. Second, the tools such as Siri and Alexa are vastly different from the Stargates, X10's and other DIY systems of the past.
Just like I don't want to have to wait for someone to come connect a new trackpad to my computer, I don't want to wait for someone to connect a light to a button.

I think a better analogy is a computer. I don't have to call anyone to install software for me, I can do it myself. If I buy a new printer then I can install it myself without waiting a week and paying someone else to do what I can easily do myself in 15 minutes. And yes, someone isn't making money on not being able to charge me a trip charge and labor charge for plugging in my printer!
HOWEVER, if I have a problem that I can't solve or want something done that is more than I have the knowledge or time to do THEN I can hire someone to do it for me. I'm a photographer. I sometimes edit photos on my computer myself and sometimes I pay someone to edit them for me either because I'm crunched for time or I need the better quality that comes from having a great retoucher do it.
I don't at all mind paying my integrator to do stuff that I don't have the knowledge or time to do. Initial system setup falls in this category. Installing most new drivers would. And fixing something that I messed up and can't figure out would 🙂
HOWEVER, like the printer, I get extremely irritated having to pay them to do stuff that I can do myself w/ less of my personal time invested than is required to explain it and re-explain it, and that I can do sooner than waiting on them to have time available.  And FWIW, I really like my integrator. 
I've brought up the issue of Connections before. I can't see them! I can't troubleshoot them! I can't delete them! If I want one created or deleted it takes more time for me to tell my integrator what to do than it would to just do it myself. It then takes time for my integrator to do his bit. And they are, rightly, going to charge me for doing something that I could have done easier and faster myself but that Control 4 will not let me do.  
It's a bit like sitting here telling someone to press the X key on my keyboard. I can press the key myself. But if the key isn't working then I'll want your knowledge and expertise to fix it.
 

you can record to an NVR, its ONVIF compliant

Thanks. Can you post your code when you're done? I'd like to see how you do it.

If your lights are 12v, you’ll need a transformer. 
If you want to dim it, consult with the transformer manufacturer on the best type of dimmer to use and install the corresponding C4 dimmer. 
Please note, 0-10v dimmers are made for sending a 0-10v dimming signal to drivers/ballasts that are made to accept that signal. They are NOT meant to supply voltage directly to your low voltage light fixtures.  

I agree with you but 99% of the time simplicity is better than complexity.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Layman answer - it's a nifty little driver you can trigger to take a snapshot of the state of devices.  System remembers the state they were in and then can revert back to that state later.  Example:  doorbell rings - while you were watching Roku with the lights at 50% in the family room and the rest of the lights in the house / outside are off. 
You program your snapshot driver so that when someone rings, first thing that happens is a snapshot of the current state of the media scene and lights are taken. Then, set a quick delay and have the outside lights pop on, maybe the light in your foyer, maybe the family room lights go to 100%, pause the media scene and bring the IP camera up on screen for 30 seconds so you can see who's there.  Maybe set a timer for one minute.  When the timer expires, REVERT snapshot will bring each device back to where they were - inside / outside lights go off, family room lights go back to 50%, TV goes back to ROKU. 
This is just one example, there are tons of applications.  Search around the forum and talk to your dealer.  I have about half a dozen instances of this driver for all kinds of things. 
For this application - I'll program a keypad button to trigger an HVAC override - It will take a snapshot of what state the Ecobees are in.  When I disengage the override, it will REVERT them back to where they were.  No need to program an "if" or "else" to figure out what mode it was in.  It will just jump right back to where it was.

From prior experience I decided that a button was a better option for us so I just setup a button to toggle the HVAC system (6 thermostats) on/off.  I am looking forward to seeing what greenfield comes up with.
Only our main and lower levels are contacted and we have double-hung and not all of them are contacted for the top sash which is the one we open frequently for fresh air. So, for us, the reliability of relying on window contacts isn't very high.  

I jumped to a conclusion! Sorry about that. Disappointing though 🙂
 

Think of connections as the virtual representation of the physical wires that run to and from your system.
There is an HDMI cable between your Roku (or cable box or whatever) and your AVR, and another HDMI cable between your AVR and your TV.  Both of these would be configured in Control4's connections - the HDMI out from your Roku would be connected to the input on the AVR, and the HDMI out from the AVR would be connected to the input on the TV.
With lighting, connections allow installers to "bind" a light switch or dimmer to more loads than the locally wired load, or to bind keypads, etc. that don't even have a load wired to them to control lights.  The lighting scenes created in the Advanced Lighting Agent also expose a connection point, in the same vein as the HDMI on the back of the TV.  Likewise with the light switches and keypads.  So if I use the connections tab to link the output of a keypad button with the input of an advanced lighting scene, that button on the keypad now controls the lights.
The connections/binding method is generally viewed as slightly more reliable, quicker to activate/deactivate, and more likely to "just work".  However, as you know, the downside is that they can't be modified with Composer HE.  You can change the contents of the scene, but you can't remove or add the scene from a button.  The same end effect can be done with programming: "when the button is tapped, then active scene x."  This takes slightly more processing power however, and in a very busy system can seem very slightly laggy.

and if helpful - my wife and I write up some yellow sticky notes and put them on the walls next to each keypad.  gave us a few weeks to live/learn with it and make any adjustments prior to finalizing our order.
there is an old thread on here for ideas on how to use keypads effectively or how to push the limits to control audio, video, blinds, lighting, etc.  Lots of out of the box ideas floating around.

I believe that is a function in Composer Pro - your dealer can run a report and send you a PDF
not sure its possible to run a printable report in Composer HE

I I created variable "Media status"
Every time if any zone is changing status to "on" it increases variable by 1 ( 4 zones on, it will be equal 4) every time if zone is off it decreases variable by 1 ( turned off 1 zone - 4-1=3), so at the moment we got all zones off, Variable =0. in over section of programming "when "media Status" changes" if it =0 (means all off) change LED to Blue, if >0 - Red, or what ever. 
1 condition 

yep,
1. in new composer it works better. 
2. depends how many conditions do you have, (if you have a lot of media zones you need to program each one) I found variables work better.

Change the LED from "follow load" to "programmed". Then in programming (although I'm not sure it will allow you to program ranges instead of just a set amount like 25, 50, etc)
? If power = 50%
    --> Set Color to xyz
? If power = 75%
    --> Set color abc
Then make sure to set ? If power = 0% set to black so it turns off.