Topfox

Pretty sure I already know the answer to this one, but figured I’d ask anyway. Can you link the Leaf Matrix switches together and use the same input sources across both switches? Example if I have a 10 way matrix, but have 12 TVs. Could I pick up a 6 way matrix and some how combine them together or would they be discreet entities in that the TVs would only be able to see the sources of the switch they are connected to.....which is my assumption.

Have you tried testing output 5 or 6 directly to the TV and not through the balun or the receiver? Or have you tried output 5 or 6 directly from the matrix to the balun to the TV? I wonder if the receiver being in the middle is your issue.

Thanks for the note. Yeah all my plugs have been back to working great. Don’t currently have any minis at the moment.

A friend of mine is newish to C4 and after being at my house he is trying to figure else what else in his house he can integrated into C4. He currently has a home security system that is basically managed by Xfinity that consists of a bunch of home security sensors and some security cameras. Does anyone know if you can pull that stuff into C4 so he doesn’t have to have two separate systems? I looked at the cameras to see if they had at least IPs, but the Xfinity application didn’t seem to expose much information.

Sweet! Will do!

Would love an IP driver as well, but with that said. The IR driver does work fine with the Series X device.

Yes it is the same driver. However, I tried that work around as well and it didn’t work for me. Agreed on the timing. To resolve for me we had to remove the affected drivers, and re-add them again. Not sure if this action will be a temporary fix or a long lasting fix. Hope they can get it fixed. Adding a manual action to force a resync without modifying anything would be nice too.

I have about 14 WeMo smart plugs. Using the WeMo app they all work fine and maintain status, but C4 seems to lose the current status. So sometimes C4 thinks they are on when they are actual off. Has anyone had an issues like this with the driver.

Have you tried unplugging your linked echo and plugging it back in. The one time I had an issue with that driver I did that and it fixed it.

Nevermind. Ive got it working!

So I have added an IRUSB to each TV. I can successful wake the TV from sleep and that portion is working great. However, if I try to "turn off" the TV which is really just putting it to sleep, it doesn't seem to work. I set the setting in the IRUSB drive to put the FireTV into sleep mode when the Room is Turned Off. I haven't seen another way to enable Sleep mode through the IRUSB driver, but it doesn't see to work. If I hit the sleep button in the FireTV Remote Control app on my IOS device it does turn off the TV. Any ideas?

Got my new sub. Whew. Thanks for those who reached out anyway. Glad my dealer was able to finally work this out.

Hmm. I have the epic driver, am running 3.1.3 and have all Gen 2 dots. Everything is working great for me. I had an issue one time with the epic driver where echo wouldn’t discover , but all I had to do was unplug the Gen 2 dot and plug it back it. Hasn’t happened since.

I didn't even think of that. I just realized I can control these tvs with the Fire TV app for IOS. I think they don't really power off and just do sleep which IRUSB says they can control sleep/wake. Maybe Ill take one off an existing device I have and test it out real quick.

IRUSB support told me they don't support on o Reading over the FLIRC stuff, and Im a little confused. Does it still require to receive an IR signal from a remote? Or can I send the signal over IP to FLIRC like with IRUSB?

My dealer finally responded and is saying delivery today. Fingers crossed. I saw a new one on eBay a few weeks ago for 699 without underground 799 with underground. Thought about picking it up, but then was told dealer would be giving me a new one.

Well my dealer said they would get me a replacement sub a few weeks ago and now they are ghosting me (so much for being highly rated on C4 site of dealers) Of course I reported the issue to the dealer on Sept 9th and my limited warranty from Triad ended Sept 25th. I’m still trying to track him down, but wanted to get an idea on how much a replacement sub would cost me as I’d like to fill the big hole in the ground in my backyard.

Does anyone know if IRUSB works with FireTV Edition TVs? I picked up two TVs on the cheap to build digital movie posters but they are FireTV Edition TVs. Trying to figure out how I can turn them on and off. I’m putting them in locations I can’t get IR or Ethernet to, I actually don’t even know of IRUSB has Power functions.

While I wait for my EA-5 to arrive, something that just crossed my mind. I want to use the 2 digital outputs and 2 stereo outputs as inputs to my Russound system that has 6 Stereo inputs. Currently my Russound system is controlled through a Serial driver. I know I can use a physical convertor to change Digital signal to Stereo, but are you able to connect a Digital Output to a Stereo Input in the Connections UI? If not, is there someway to work around that?

....damn. I didn’t even look at the HC800. That would of save me about 1k. Sigh. I guess I’ll at least be semi future proof maybe?

CAA66 and CAS44 They have been working pretty good with the direct RS232 connections.

All, Some background, sorry a little bit lengthy. Currently have a single rack that contains like 90% of my gear. (EA3, IO Extender, 2 receivers, Video Matrix, 4 cable boxes, 2 firetvs, 2 xboxes, NVR that supports 8 cameras). I have about 15 or so C4 light switches, 1 relay additionally in the house. I’m using all the IR ports on the EA-3, HDMI output for OSD, audio out into the Video matrix (I wouldn’t need this audio out in the config I’m moving to). Unfortunately the original builder of my home did not centrally locate the house audio system (8 rooms run off two different Russound controllers). I have two Ethernet drops near these controllers and am currently controlling the Russound controllers through RS232 over those Ethernet drops to 2 RS232 ports on the IO Extender. The negative here is I didn’t think ahead when I first got started with C4, and only ran a single set of RCA cables from the central rack location to this Russound location, so I’m limited to one audio path from C4. Running these cables was extremely difficult and required a lot of drywall repair once done. Where the Russound system is I also have a TV that I currently don’t have integrated into C4. I’m at the point now where I want additional audio sources through C4, so I’m looking at adding a EA-5 to get 4 audio paths, and so I can reclaim the two Ethernet ports that I’m running RS232 over. With the EA-5 there is two RS232 ports on it, so figure I can control the Russound with those ports, and then get the EA-5 on the network with the Ethernet I free up. Additional benefit is I can then add this TV to the C4 experience. Here is my question. Would you switch the new EA-5 to be the director, or would you leave the EA-3 as the director since it is centralized to the majority of the equipment and have the EA-5 as the slave? With the current EA-3 I haven’t noticed anything I would perceive to be a performance issue due to the EA-3.

Looks like my dealer was able to get another sub, but not a new underground kit. So now I need to figure out how to get the adapter plate off. Unfortunately removing the 8 or so screws didn’t do the trick. I see from the manual the adapter has a gasket, so I wonder TDC the gasket had a glue to it.

My dealer is saying he will talk to Triad, but he doesn’t believe they will honor the warranty for the sub if there is water in the enclosure. Which perplexes me as the GA10 sub is rated as IP57, which the “7” means waterproof. So if I’m still within the warranty period, which I am based on the Limited Warranty terms and a dated invoice proving I can meet those terms (at least till 9/25), how could Triad deny a warranty claim when clearly their Waterproof sub is not waterproof? Has anyone had any negative dealings with with Triad like this before? Again I’ll note we haven’t received a rejection from Triad, but he is saying he is confident once we return the sub and they see water we will.

I have similar issues with the IOS app.