Topfox

I haven’t had any issues with my stuff. I’m running Plex on a synology ds918+. I use both Nvidia Shields and second gen FireTV Cubes. However one thing I do have to do is ensure I select the correct audio track or I have issues. Ex in my theater I can play Atmos tracks, but if I stream the same movie on a TV that is not Atmos enabled I do get video play back issues. If I switch to a lesser audio track the video streams without issue. Something to try if you rips have multiple audio tracks.

That was a good point. I didn’t really think about. If you stop buying it doesn’t mean you lose your content, you just have to keep the kscape equipment you have working. I’ll have to check if my 4k uhd discs have Blu-ray Discs. Would hate to lose that investment since as mentioned you can’t currently catalog 4k discs.

No issues at all with the family being able to run it. I do something’s to make it easier for my daughter for example. I’m her room I limit navigator to only certain sources in the matrix vs all of them. For example her experience is a single cable box to select vs choosing between the 4 different ones available. This also helps me as well to prevent source stealing without actually locking users out of using the source. With my daughter I always know if she is home my 4th cable box could be in use by her, so I wouldn’t watch something I really want to see on that cable box in case she connected and tried to change the channel on me.

If I want each zone on a different cable channel then yes. For my matrix currently I have 4 cable boxes, 4 fireTV cubes, a NVR, an EA 3 and a Xbox Series X as the sources. On the FireTV cubes I run Plex, an IPTV app, YouTube, and YouTube Kids. I also have the video matrix output audio to an audio matrix so I can put any of the sources on my Video matrix to my distributed audio throughout the house. Think style of I have one tv in “sports bar” that has volume turned on. Generally fine when it’s just me and a few friends. When I have a March madness party it’s like 20-30 folks, so I transition the audio to my ceiling speakers in the “sports bar” instead of using the TV speakers. I have TVs in the bathroom so makes it easy when I want to mirror content to those TVs. Like if a UFC PPV is on and I don’t want to miss any of the action when using the bathroom. I can easily share the fight with those TVs by just clicking a button or programming. Like I used to say what ever was playing on the main tv play of the bathroom TVs for example in programming. It’s also nice that when I’m not using that room I can use any of those devices on the other TVs in my house and outside around where I have another two outdoor TVs. So decreases the amount of FireTV, shields, cable boxes, etc I need to have when I can share all the sources. Other problems I’ve found with Smart TVs is I can’t always get the apps I want/need. For example sometimes I bounce around between different IPTV providers and not all of them have apps available directly on the smartTVs. Lots of different scenarios.

Have talked to at least one other member who started with K-scape then happily left for Plex already. Just curious what others think. I currently have a Plex setup that has grown to over 1.5k movies. There is nothing wrong with it, seems to work fine. However Ive been reading up on K-scape and it has captured my interest. I think what’s drawing me in the most is the store. I’m definitely a buy the disc and rip without compression kind of guy for my own content. So the K-scape store is intriguing to being able to get similar quality, if not better quality, content from a download vs going to a store to buy discs or ordering disc from like Amazon then ripping. Which as of late I’ve had a few incidents where the discs purchased didn’t work. Have always been able to return discs get new ones that did work, but feeling like the stability of disc is going downhill from manufacturers. Negatives in my eyes is your content is trapped in K-scape. So if you leave the platform you leave behind the content you bought unless Im miss understanding that part. Also wish K-scape had a way I could see before joining their ecosystem what the cost would be to do disc to digital for my existing physical Blu-ray and 4k UHD collection would be. (Approx 300 discs). Some reviews I’ve watched it could be as little as $4 and has high or maybe more as $20. Again just curious what others think to get a more broad opinion. Not overly concerned with the equipment cost in regard to the feedback. Of course if I buy that would be a concern to find the best deal, but for overall decision I’m not looking at that initial equipment buy as a barrier.

I know it’s always a back and forth debate, like those that have already responded, but I love having video distribution in my home. A few friends of mine that just started with their systems also went the video distribution route. Nothing wrong with streaming boxes everywhere or Smart TVs, but I really like having everything centralized in one location. I have 11 TVs on a matrix with 7 TVs in my basement setup like a sports bar. Swapping sources between TVs and mirroring screens is great.

I had a similar problem with my BenQ. I added a Projector Power Off command to the Room Off. As an additional backup I add a Projector Voice scene. Although rare since I added the additional power off to the Room Off, the Voice scene has never not worked.

With the Universal Plex mini app, should I be able to tie lighting scenes in. Example today I have a Movie Start scene that I manually select in navigator when it’s time to start the movie. Wondering if this can be automated as part of when Plex starts playing a movie vs it being manual.

Shouldn’t be. Think of baluns as pass through devices. I’m not familiar with the 540, but AV Pros have an option to set EDID on the balun itself. Could be your problem if 540 has that ability.

I think you can do this once you add the free weather driver

I noticed my android emulation on Windows I can’t open cameras. If I select an individual camera it tries to open the page, seems to crash and goes back to the previous view showing the multiple cameras.

Mine is doing the same. For a room I have experience buttons in but no thermostat. All my rooms with thermostats show a thermostat on the icon though.

Its a pioneer elite sc-lx704. Ill have to poke around

I was trying to get faster source switching times is why I separated it out to a matrix vs the AVR. Unfortunately didn’t really see any improvement on switching, but now it’s one of those why change it back. Yeah I guess I just like to know where I’m at for two reasons. 1) Others in the house. Sometimes I turn it up pretty loud and it bothers others in the house, or some things will fall off the walls. I had the room sound proofed as much as possible, but that bass still travels to the room above. 2) Protect myself/equipment. Lol. Like mentioned in item 1 sometimes I’m inclined to make it really loud. Seeing it on screen helps me stay in line to an extent. The percentages on the app or the SR260 will work, was just nice to not have to look down while raising. Would be nicer if the percentages aligned more to each db change though as say 70% on my system can be approx -13.5 to -11.5. I guess something else I could do is set a max volume for the room or something else along those lines with experience buttons.

Recently moved my source switching from the AVR to an AVPro Edge MX-82 matrix. I have video to a projector coming off one of the AVPro Matrix HDMI outputs, and then on the other HDMI output I have that downscale the video feed and send audio uncompressed to the AVR. What I’m missing by having it setup this way if the volume visual on the projector screen when changing volume. I see the percentage on my sr260 and in the iPad interface, but it was nice to see the db on screen as well as the percentage doesn’t map to .5 db. is there any creative way to get volume to show back up on the video screen, percentage or db level version?

Thanks Mitch!

Or maybe Im just blind and this generic Zwave Common Light driver will do the trick along with a new Core 3 controller

Have a friend who went all in within his house with GE Zwave light switches. Now after seeing my setup and seeing the singular app experience he is interested in going to C4. If he goes Core 3, I know that gets him "better" Zwave integration but I don't see ZWave light switches in the C4 drivers database. Does anyone know of a way that he can tie his light switches into a C4 setup?

Assume using IR isn’t an option? Cause you could easily create a driver if you have the remote using IR.

Been saying for awhile when my LU1082D died I’d switch to a AV Pro Edge device. Although my LU didn’t die, I decided to say F it over the holiday season and upgrade. Although I had to wait around a month due to US stock issues, I currently have no regrets on the upgrade. I really didn’t expect to notice that much of a difference in picture quality, but I noticeable can tell a difference in picture quality even on my FIOS cable boxes. I’d say the only downfall I’ve noticed so far is the switching between sources surprisingly seems a second or two slower than the LU1082D. This is probably due to CAT5e cable vs CAT6 cable in the rooms where I use baluns (which is the majority), but the quality of picture improvement is definitely worth the slower switching I’m experiencing. I even like the way it looks like the rack with the transceivers mount kit. Another plus is you can easily see and set the EDID that is being used on each display, which is super nice. All around I’m a happy camper. If it is something you are considering I’d say go do it. I’m happy I did. Thanks again @time2jet for assisting me in the move.

Think I give up. Lol. Tried it and it just keeps blowing fuses on the alarm board. Probably best I let it go vs risking damaging other equipment b

Ok Sig and Gnd of contact on controller. What driver do I use for the detection? Is it just a generic contact driver. Thanks for your help on this. Last time my septic went off I wasn’t home and luckily a neighbor heard it and called me.

One side of the input puts out 5v. Then when the alarm activates it puts out none. So would I just wire into this to a contact sensor on the IO Extender in the Sig and GND? Then program off recognizing the voltage being present? What driver do you normal use?

I found this schematic. I’m looking at this im guess I can either wire into the Alarm (R) which is the red light that lights up when alarm is going off or the Input where the outside float switch wires into?

Like a relay or a contact? I still need to go look, but I have an EA-3 and a IO Extender near the inside unit.