Topfox

Mine were working solid for awhile, but more recently they have been having issues going into Artwork mode through programming. Messes up maybe 25% of the time now. No changes on the programming side. Never had any power on/off issues though. But yeah the Frames can be finicky.

Did you go into connections and map it in the network area where you map IP and Zigbee devices?

Prob a dumb question, but will ask anyway, you are hardwired to the network right.

Figured Id share this in case it would help someone in the future. Background: Samsung TV 2021 model year and Samsung HW-Q60V Soundbar Connection 1st Attempt: Source Input to HDMI 1 port on TV, Soundbar eArc port to HDMI 2 eArc port on TV. Result: Soundbar worked great, came online fast, could change volume through a single remote, survived power on/off cycles. Problem: Any content using DTS would not play sound, and research showed many people have this problem with Samsung TVs not passing through DTS audio. Connection 2nd Attempt: Source Input to HDMI port of Soundbar, Soundbar eArc port to HDMI 2 eArc port on TV. Result: Soundbar initially worked without issue and played both Atmos and DTS content. Problem: However after a power on/off cycle the TV would revert back to TV speakers instead of the soundbar and it would take CEC roughly 45 sec to turn on the soundbar. Research showed lots of folks ran into this issue and would find unplugging the TV and plugging it back in would temporarily resolve the issue. One user and put a automated plug on the TV in which they would cut the power routinely to "reset CEC". Resolution: Connection 2nd attempt. After a ton of different tests and settings configurations, Ive finally found configuration that seems to be working. If I leverage the original TV remote things were working more consistently, but when using the IP Control to power on the TV I would almost always have the TV lose the soundbar as the default speaker. One thing that caught my eye was everytime I used the original TV remote I would see the Samsung Tizen splash screen, however when using IP Control Id never see it. This led me into the "secret service menu" for Samsung and I found the Instant On setting. I turned this off and now I see the splash screen when using IP Control for power on and its maintaining the soundbar config. Thought it was all solved but then I would turn off the TV and comeback 5 min later and find the TV on again. If I turned on Instant On again this auto turning on of the TV would go away. Led me to another hunt within the service menu and i found a setting for Auto Power On that was set to Last State. I changed this to Off and now that issue is gone. Note: Instant On nor Auto Power On are not exposed at all in the standard TV Settings Menu. Anyway, thought I would share in case it might help someone else. It was driving me a little nutty for a couple of days and I almost just returned these soundbars I picked up....Guess I could have switched to IR control and probably solved it to but who wants to do that.

Same. Although I’m doing this for things like ease of ability to swap sources between multiple screens on a single wall and also for knowing which sources support things like Atmos and which I have configured not to since I have a mix of TVs with varying surround capabilities but don’t want to lock devices to rooms.

IP address conflict maybe? Maybe it “steals” as the primary but then overtime the conflicting devices “steals” it back. Just a guess. also good to note on Samsung devices there is like a 30 sec delay with power on/off. If you turn it off and then immediately try to turn it back on you have to wait 30 secs.

Now icons like this example I could totally get behind. 1000% better than my blue squares.

Just noticed when I bring up my room list on my phone app, it’s now showing squares next to the name of the room which appears to be whatever the background is for my room. Does it only follow the room background or can you set it to something separate from the room background. Currently I’m not a big fan of the feature, semi distracting but then again all my backgrounds are basically the same blue color. Maybe it would be more appealing if I was using something different.

yep thats what I ended up doing for the main room I was looking for this capability in. For the other areas I have a lot of duplicate sources, ex I have 6 Nvidia Sheilds. So I just dropped half of them down in their audio capabilities, and labeled them as such. That way if I know there might be a chance where I want to share audio with the house speakers I know to just use one of those downgraded sources. Its working so far. Wish one of the audio convertors that are like 50-100 could downmix Atmos.

Word. Yeah definitely wasn’t looking to go crazy. The main TV I wanted to be able to duplicate audio on has its own receiver, so I was able to do it with that one by just making the receiver a source in my rooms. Might not be worth it to try to get it going outside of this.

Have a AV Pro Edge MX-1616 that I am doing Audio Extraction from to a Triad AMSv2 16. All works good until I try to share audio with a source that is doing audio at a higher level than 2 ch. Is there a "cheap" device I can put in between the RCAs from the MX-1616 to the AMS that can downmix all the audio over those RCAs to 2 ch? This is from the MX-1616 docs. NOTE: Extracted Audio Ports are PCM 2CH audio up to LPCM 6 CH, Dolby Digital 5.1 & DTS. No down-mix.

Issue I have is remotes will just randomly stop sending whatever I’m sending although the remote itself seems responsive. Luckily it only requires me to restart the remote itself to fix it, but does get annoying. I’ve seen this on both Touch and Non touch versions although it is more frequent on Touch version and I haven’t seen it happen in a while on my non touch.

I see similar type issues. But I’ve found if while it gives a circle of wait if I click on a different option than click back on my original option it’s full operated without error

Have some C4 Light switches that are controlling some Phillips Hue bulbs. Decided to play around with them tonight changing them from Load Control to 2 Button Config to see if I could keep power to the Hue bulbs on routinely allowing them to get updates while off. Everything was going fine until I got to my switches that are in a 3 way configurations. In the 3 way configurations I can get the C4 switch into 2 button mode and things work fine, but the C4 Aux switch continues to operate in Load Control manner. Is there a way to prevent this from happening so that the Aux switch functions in the same manner as the main switch?

Thanks everyone.

What’s a good wireless motion sensor? Basically just looking for an easy solution for a stairwell to trigger the light in motion. Previously used Lutron occupancy switch, but my bulbs are Phillips hue in this stairwell and there is no way to keep the lights on long enough for the bulbs to get updates. Therefore want to just move to an external motion sensor to trigger off of.

I think it was. If I remember right it was one of the reasons I didnt switch over when you were first able to. Think there was another thread on this back then.

Believe @Time2Jet may have an Axion for sale.

I’m doing unifi as well. With that said I’m not sure this is happening with all my Halo remotes, might just be an issue with one. I need to play with them all some more.

I’ve had the same problem twice now myself. A restart of the remote fixes it, but not sure for how long.

Working again for me. I did nothing to it. No unlinking or re-linking when it was previously broken. I just waited it out.

Same problem here

Sold 2 sets. Still have 2 sets remaining.

2 remotes with batteries and cradles still available.

Haven’t read yet, but does it drop the license requirement? At least for me that is a major blocker the ongoing cost or super large amount for unlimited ongoing. I’d prefer to move to Josh I believe, but not at the expense in comparison to Echo.