Topfox

Nah. Ir bud is hidden behind the tv. All through the IRUSB companion app you load.

Thanks again. Went the cheap media player route. Working perfect.

Have 2 used SR260 remotes for sell. All in good condition. Come with charging cradles and batteries. $50 each. Buyer pays shipping.

Thanks everyone for the ideas.

Is there anyway to programmatically launch a video file? Example: If I have a short video file of a logo, and I have Nvidia shield players, is there a way I can launch a routine from C4 that would start a TV and then auto play the video instead of say launching something like VLC player and then browsing to the locally stored file and launching manually.

I’ll have to look into that. I’m not familiar with them. It’s a shame. I’d really like a low effort way to get this capability. Very few reasons I bounce out of the C4 experience to use a separate app.

Asked this question a few years ago, but was curious if there was anything new out there to handle this. Today I use an app called Thorlight to do lighting animations with Phillips Hue bulbs. This basically makes the hue bulbs cycle through various lighting colors in sequence for example in a loop. I use this pretty heavily when I have parties. When it’s just me I’ll use the C4 color wheel and just pick a single color. So basiclaly depending on the scenario I’ll use either straight C4 or C4 to turn on lights but then Thorlight to control the animations. Would love to just do this all in C4 vs using both. Anyone have stuff like this already programmed, or any other driver out there that I can integrate to enable some animations?

I use IRUSB on my two fire TVs, although they are Toshiba brand. I can control those items with it.

Although shouldn’t be pixelated bad, but C4 doesn’t have limitations on quality it can support. So your Hik vision app is always going to give you the best quality your camera can provide.

Does Multidisplay driver only allow you to have more than one audio? Trying to remember. I’ve tried playing with it in my setup a few times and always end up going back to separate rooms for my wall of TVs. I always forget the reasons why I abandon it.

Personally after playing with both a Touch and a Non Touch I think I like the non touch better. I was a huge fan of the SR260s, so maybe that’s why, but notice some of what others have mentioned when trying a touch. Response time seems slower after selecting things, have to push the buttons harder for it to recognize a button press. We will see how it goes after some firmware updates though.

Have some custom drivers that I decided to change icons on. Went through a few iterations yesterday before I landed on one I was happy with. Everywhere I look (Composer, iPhone, OSG) has the latest icon but the Halo remotes have a version of the icon I tried before deciding on my latest one. Ive validated all the icon experience images are the same in the driver. Tried multiple Navigator refreshes, and rebooting the controller, but no resolution. Does anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks. That was my assumption but figured I’d ask.

How do you switch the default room after the original install. Doesn’t appear to be as easy as directly moving the driver into the new room. It just reverts itself back to the old room.

I use it and also have 2 Xbox series X. Haven’t had any issues. Is there a reflection that maybe the IR is bouncing off of? Maybe try some tape over the ir. Between my 2 Xboxes, though what I do find interesting is that while my IR is in the same general area the IR bud does not work on both if I have them both in the exact same spot in the Xbox.

Nevermind, I think Ive got it now...I knew I would possibly figure it out right after I ask

@msgreenf Messing around with my system today it looks like Im in the same state. I have the 4232 driver that is working fine. I can arm, disarm, see all my zone states in the app and in history, but am unable to program it seems off those zones. Which drivers are supposed to be added additionally for the alarm to be able to program off the zone states. Didn't see any mention in the 4232 driver doc, and not seeing anything screaming at me when searching driver database.

I use both Apple Music and (free) Pandora with C4. As some others have stated the Apple Music integration with CarPlay just makes it easy, and then the family plan basically costs nothing. So my wife, kid and I all get unlimited music for less than $20. With that said when it comes to C4 I find myself using my free Pandora account. Just super easy to hit pandora icon and select a genre like Todays hits.

I use both Apple Music and (free) Pandora with C4. As some others have stated the Apple Music integration with CarPlay just makes it easy, and then the family plan basically costs nothing. So my wife, kid and I all get unlimited music for less than $20. With that said when it comes to C4 I find myself using my free Pandora account. Just super easy to hit pandora icon and select a genre like Todays hits.

I use both Apple Music and (free) Pandora with C4. As some others have stated the Apple Music integration with CarPlay just makes it easy, and then the family plan basically costs nothing. So my wife, kid and I all get unlimited music for less than $20. With that said when it comes to C4 I find myself using my free Pandora account. Just super easy to hit pandora icon and select a genre like Todays hits.

I have the triad garden array (8 gsats and 1 in ground sub) being driven by a Crown CDI 2|600. The CDI signal is being fed from an AMS16. Those go around my pool deck, but at one end of the pool I have a pavilion with 6 in ceiling triad speakers. Those speakers are being driver by a Sony AVR, with the input signal also coming from the AMS16. Everything is in sync. Only thing I notice is I have to turn the volume up higher on the AVR than I do on the 70v.

If you look at their materials for their 2023 version it says they support Control4, but I haven’t personally looked to see if there is a driver.

I haven’t seen this specific issue, but I have been having issues with app lag/tracking after it’s been running in the background. When I bring the app back up it will show me one screen and when I go to click on something it will refresh quickly to a different screen which results in my clicking something I didn’t want. Like a new source when I thought I was going to change the volume. Gets really annoying.

Not that it bothers me at all, but I have also noticed there seems to be more. Example. If I click on something from the All Activity feed it takes me to a full page ad that I have to close before I’m taken to the post.

I have it semi centrally located, but yeah it’s covering the whole house end to end