Time2Jet

Thanks Ari! Do you know about the Pico's? Are they able to be programmed to work like a C4 keypad? I get that there is only 2 buttons, but it'd be nice. I haven't really researched it enough yet.

Hi All. I run a C4 System (EA5)in my home for A/V, Lighting, Fireplace, TStat, door locks, garage doors and soon security, door station and bulbs. I'm about to add OSD with EA1's locally to 1 of my video zones. I have a house full of Caseta, but I never automated the Bathroom or Closet Lighting (Closets are on occupancy sensor switches now and may stay that way). At the time I started my project, I was limited to 50 Caseta devices, but I have the Pro Bridge, which supports 75, so now I have room for more. I'm about to try to automate those area's lighting and at the same time try to enhance my Zigbee Pro mesh. I do like Caseta, it works really well and integrates fine. I just found out that the Pico's can be programmed as wireless keypad buttons (please let me know if I am mistaken). Pico's are really cheap and easy to mount and they do tend to work well in my Caseta system. But Caseta does nothing for enhancing my Zigbee Pro mesh. So... I considered one C4 Switch/Keypad in each bathroom together with 2-4 Casetas? I just don't know which model will allow for a lighting load and a keypad? I know the squares will, but I want decora. Thanks always for the help all!

Brand New in the Box. Kwikset 914 Venetian Bronze C4 Version Lockset. (C4-KSC914DB-VB) Asking $290 Shipped. Will consider trade for some current 120v white switches, dimmers or keypads. I also have 2 additonal open box non C4 zigbees that I am asking $150 each for. They work really well with alexa, not sure what else.

You will need the EA1 only for OSD. Otherwise a balun and a remote (or the C4 app, if you don’t want to buy a remote). Out of curiosity, are you thinking about sharing the BluRay player? If so, you’ll need some sort of matrix switching. I’m pretty sure you can find an HDBaseT Balun with two HDMI outputs or if you have an AVR or preamp, you can just run it through that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Mitch. Can you PM me some pricing when you get a chance? Thermostat and 3 sensors. I don’t think I have access to those in any of my programs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m about to retire my Nest thermostat and 2 sensors for an Ecobee system. I’ve been looking around and it seems like there are different models. My goal is best C4 integration. Recommendations? Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is just an example. There are others that will work. This one does have Poc (Poe), so you won’t need power at the TV. It does not have ARC, but I don’t see a reason for it. Monoprice Blackbird 4K Pro HDBaseT Extender Kit, IR, 70m With PoC, RS232, HDCP 2.2, 4K@60Hz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZXHV1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_USawDbQM2MMGC Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@msgreenf Thanks for chiming in Mitch. I was thinking you would know this. I think this is a 2017 model, and likely has SmartHub built in. That’s why I was thinking ip control was possible. A 30’ HDMI can be bought at Amazon for under $30. A budget, but decent, balun is $200 plus the cabling. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All depends on how much you personally value it. It is not uncommon for cheap baluns to just stop working or have plenty of issues. I use AVPro Edge baluns. They just work every time without hiccups and I’ve never replaced one. They aren’t inexpensive. I can also link you to some less expensive ones you can buy on Amazon once I know your cable type. What cable are you thinking of using? If you’re having to run a new cable, just use Cat6a. But maybe you already have coaxial or something going from one room to the next? As far as ip control, I believe all Samsung’s built from 2016 on should be fine. But with a balun ir will work fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You could conceivably run a 30’ HDMI, but the right balun over Cat6a would add ir. If you do have the ability to control your tv, then look at blue jeans for a long hdmi. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What model television in the bedroom? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Matt is correct, as usual. Done every day by many of us. You obviously have to use separate sources unless you’ll never be using both rooms at one time - (you can however watch the same exact source simultaneously). I have this exact situation and it’s a wonderful solution (balun). I have certain independent sources for each room (ie 2 Tivo Boxes, two Roku’s), but share a BluRay player. I’m able to control everything via ip, so I didn’t need ir. Is this AVR in the other room or in a rack room? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will have 10 white ambiance hue bulbs and a bridge for sale (if I don’t first burn them in my fire pit). I’ve never been so frustrated. I just pulled all ten bulbs to within 12 feet of the bridge. 3 are always unreachable. Funny thing, those there are never the same. All are updated to the current firmware and Hue still rejects that it could be the radio in the bridge that isn’t functioning as it should. I ordered 10 TP-Link Color Bulbs. I cannot wait. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Picos will definitely program to control anything Caseta on the system. But I don’t think it will allow tap programming. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Afterthought. Do I have any button control with Caseta in C4. I never really looked. Like, can I double tap the off button on a certain Pro Switch to turn off the entire room? Because if this is the case, I’ll just finish out with Caseta and add a few zigbee extenders to enhance my C4 mesh. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If I can ever get them to work! Hue just called me to troubleshoot. I'm on the road this week however.

Very nice. Love it!

If I install one of these in each bathroom, I can load one light, but also program the buttons to operate the other Caseta switches? This would be ideal for my mesh, as the bathrooms are located precisely where I'd want to repeat zigbee.

which keypads are you using?

Thanks @rea. I like bulbs as well. I just thought the plugs would be more reliable.

@LollerAgent I started my project never knowing I would end up with C4, so if I had to do it over, I would probably have done C4 lighting, if not RA2. The Keypads are a good idea, considering a repeater serves no other purpose. Thanks for the response. I always like to hear your opinion on things.

Wasn't sure which topic to put this under, so I picked this one. I'd like some well-thought opinions on the subject of adding switches to my project. I have approx 40-45 Lutron Caseta Pro dimmers/switches in my project now. I have had zero issues with them and I "sometimes" use the Lutron app for control (or renaming and definitely adding) and definitely use Alexa for lighting. The Caseta Pro Bridge will now support 75 items, it was 50 when I started the project. I want to add automation all of my dumb bathroom switches (15) and 10 Lamps (these are now Hue Bulbs which aren't cutting it in my layout). Do I even bother with the added cost of C4 switches? I can program timers, etc in Composer for Caseta, correct? I realize, depending upon the switch, I would gain some additional automation with the C4 switches (button presses, keypad buttons etc, depending upon the switch model). Whichever way this goes, I do want to enhance my zigbee mesh, but it seems the added cost of C4 switches versus Caseta Switches will allow me to add 2-3 zigbee repeaters. I will be saving $1500.00 with Caseta on the switches. The lamps are a separate thing. I was going to use Caseta plugs, but I I have the TP Link Driver from Chowmain, so I can go a lot of ways on the plugs. I just think it's best to try to stay all one ecosystem? Thanks in advance!

Interested in:  3 X Control4 T3 Series 10’’ In-Wall touch screen (White) C/W retrofitIn-Wall back box. 9 X Control4 Switch, 120V/277V (White) 1 X Intrusion Detection System C/W 10 X Motion Sensors, 10 XWindow Contacts, 3 X Smoke Detectors, 2 X Flood Sensors, 5 Door Contacts 1 XOverhead Door Contact and 1 X automation interface.

I’ve changed the Hue Zigbee channel a few times. I haven’t tried turning off the C4 zigbee yet. I’m sure it’s just that the first device is too far from the bridge, and I have a loft that’s a little isolated. I do like the TP-Link stuff so far and also have Alan’s driver, so I may go the plug route. TP just uses 2.4gHz correct, no special protocols (Zigbee, Zigbee Pro, clear Connect, etc)? Once I get my network redone with all of this new Pakedge stuff it should be strong and stable. I guess maybe you’ve answered my questions. I just was trying to get the best I can in terms of signal and integration. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This thread, and the likes, always amuses me. We are talking about a highly technical home automation control system. In fact, the ultimate, most comprehensive system available. It’s the forefather of all DIY products now marketed, but with a billion percent more automation processing ability. This isn’t Alexa, SmartThings or HomeKit... and it’s not a partial DIY solution where you still need 6 remotes and apps to sit down and set a scene to watch a movie. Get a properly designed and installed C4 system and you’ll understand those others are DIY and they have a million limitations, or that you’ll be opening 8 apps to properly put your home to sleep at night. My analogy for this is home HVAC. The everyday DIY guy can install a window air conditioner unit, but surely hires a professional to install and maintain his whole home system. The DIY can’t even buy the whole home systems, let alone design, install and maintain one beyond using the thermostat and changing filters. Shop 3 dealers. Hire a professional. Pay for the right technology with product warranty and real service. You can then use your C4 remotes, apps and OSD to run your “professionally designed and installed” whole home automation system. Then with Composer HE, When/Then and the Alexa integration you can further personalize your system. (Just like you’d change the temperature at the thermostat, switch the system on, go from heat to cool, turn on and off the fans and even damper your vent covers locally). But even then, the DIY will be here asking questions. I do. You need a professional even if you think you can do it here at this forum, you shouldn’t rely solely on it. The best techs on this forum will tell you that they cannot fix everything remotely. I know from experience. If anything, I’d like to see a way for an end user to add, for example, a switch, plug, bulb etc..: IF - the professional has already added that hub and at least one device - without having to have a service call or remote session. Even if that were a recurring subscription service, like 4Sight. In the meantime, once your up and going, planned and designed properly, you can come here to ask advice, get ideas, troubleshoot and get some remote programming by great guys and gals with incredible skills and very reasonable prices. There should be a sticky for this topic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk