Time2Jet

I’m hoping for some help learning to program with the timer agent. At this point, very simple stuff. I’ve been trying to no avail. Two scenarios involving bathroom exhaust fans and lights. (I’ll eventually do occupancy sensing for that lighting). Switches are all Caseta. I started by creating a timer (10 mins) in Agents Tab. Then in the Programming tab I start at the device, 1. when turned “on”, 2. add the timer, 3. add the “If” statement timer expires, 4. then finish with turn off. I just found that to be logical. No good. Switch turns on and back off in 5 seconds. I know I can do a delay, but I want to do this with the timer agent for reasons involving some ideas I have and want to be more fluent. Thanks in advance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Ari. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

“Apply to” Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Mitch. I got ahead of myself. Already set up and named my drivers for each bulb in each room, THEN tried to bind them with auto-discover. But I can just rename and drag and drop those. Just thought there’d be a way to use the “auto-apply”, so I could use auto discover on the incidents I’ve already named. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can someone tell me how to take advantage of the Caseta Pro Bridge 75 ID device limit? My driver only allows the old 50 IDs. I’ve searched for a new driver and cannot find a different one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m hoping for a little help with binding TP-Link LB130 Bulbs. I have 10 of them dispersed to 4 rooms. I have Alan’s driver in my project and just am having trouble following the installation instructions. I added the driver and renamed the each incident to the particular bulb name in each of the rooms (as many incidents as bulbs). When I allow auto-discover on any driver incident (already named and in a room) it randomly finds a bulb, but I don’t know how to move that to the appropriate room. I tried the “apply to” button and choose the correct room and bulb in the tree, but it doesn’t seem to bind it. Do I have to drag and drop it the the appropriate room instead? It’s probably something very simple I’m overlooking. I think I’m complicating this. Maybe I need to just start in my cloud room, bind, move & rename one at a time? (Rather than start with a renamed driver for each incident of a bulb in each room like I’m trying to do)? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m sorry. That wasn’t clear. The PoE+ switch is connected to the main switch, not the router. Only thing connected to the router is internet in from the modem and out to the main switch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No@lolleragent No longer on the system. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Latest Firmware. Service in Comcast Modem is Netgear CM1150V Out to Router Pakedge RK-1 From RK-1 Out to both Switch with PoE+ Pakedge SX-8 Switch S24P8 All WAPs at PoE+ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I consult on matters unrelated to a dealer. I cover T&M. That was my next move. Like to start here. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Dan. I have my customer owned cable modem service from Comcast. The only one with telephony approved for Comcast. A Pakedge RK-1 Router, an older S24P8 switch, SX-8 (2) PoE+ switch and 4 WX-1 WAPs. All Cat6a. All locals are direct to the switch. All external cables come into the punch first. All WAPs to the SX-8’s direct fir PoE+ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Depending upon where I am in the house, I can connect to the EA. So it’s not everywhere. But oddly, where I can connect is broadcasting no better on my meter than where I cannot. Very strange. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wasn’t keen on it either Mitch. That one of those “work arounds” you and I discuss seems to happen here, until we end up fixing it. But as for the c4 programming being broken, the system was working excellent until the TV got moved frankly. The Orbi swap wasn’t until the next day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes Mitch. This is precisely what I’m doing. On a side note, regardless the position, the 2.4 isn’t cutting it. The 5 is seemingly strong. I have them both on the same SSID. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks always! @msgreenf I’ve been surveying that this morning and it’s hard to tell, since they’re crawling. Thing is, most of these issues were present prior to the network swap. That happened lay day two (yesterday). These problems started after programming and install. day 1. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks@dcovach. Except for adjusting the Tx power on the WAPs, I did everything above. I was fairly methodical about it. I cloned my Orbi res table and even used the same SSID. I’m going on to look at the WAPs now. I’m also going to rethink my wiring. All remote cabling is pulled into a 6A punchdown and our to a switch. The local devices are cables direct to the switch. I have to look to see if the WAPs are direct to the SX-8 for PoE+. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The past few days my system has been theoretically improved quite a bit, but not without baffling problems. A few weeks back I swapped out my Denon X3500 for an X8500 and updated and added 7.2.4 speakers. That upgrade was simple SDDP helped quite a bit and current x series Denon to Denon isn’t a challenge. My AVR also resides in a rack room and serves as an HDMI matrix to two rooms. Now to the past few days. In these two rooms I swapped a Samsung 65Q9FN (that was working flawlessly) to my MBR and hung a new 75Q900R in its place. The 55NU800D was retired to the garage in the hopes my son will take it. (He’s a millennial that doesn’t watch TV, other than from his MacBook. Anyway, simple stuff, right. Same driver on the 65Q9FN. Well, it’s plagued with problems. 1. The two independent Rokus lost all control. Apps would launch, but no control. Triple checked everything, eventually C4 had us remove the driver completely and reinstall the devices and bindings. The driver had an update, but that was done after we got it to work. That’s solved. 2. The 65Q9FN that was moved takes forever to power on via C4. The apps launch, but “sometimes” no control. There are two dedicated TiVo boxes to each of these rooms, the MBR seems to lose control. Volume and launching is fine, so seems the Denon is fine. 3. The Samsung M9700 BluRay player is matrixed also and worked fine. Now it will not turn on via C4. Once I turn it on, shortly after I can control. 4. On a side note, I added several Caseta devices and the Pro driver fir the bridge is limiting me to the old 50 device ID max rule. The Pro supports 75 now. I’m boneheaded, so I figured I had an old driver and found what looked like a more current one, so I added that driver and deleted the old one. Same driver!! Two found when I searched the database. Now I have to remind 60 plus Caseta devices. My bad. But the 50 device limit can’t be the case. 5. Lastly, and unrelated, I cloned my Orbi system with what seemed like a very robust Pakedge system. I have an RK-1, SW24, 2 - SX-8’s (for PoE+) and 3 of my 4 WX-1 running. The wireless is horrid. No more than 50gb speed anywhere in the house and cannot connect to the director through composer. It’s brutal. The good news is it’s a clone, so I can have the Orbi back up and running quickly until I get this figured out. Would there be a need or benefit to add a wireless controller? (NK-1) Any help is greatly appreciated. I’m baffled. Thanks - Rich Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So about to deploy my Pakedge network this week. I’ve reassigned the RK1 to 192.168.1.1 and given the 4 WX-1’s addresses. My goal is to get everything going and then to just switch over from the mesh. I have cloned my DHCP res. table and while doing, noticed something really strange. I have my main zone for A/V and C4 OSD extender as below: TiVo/Roku/BluRay>Denon Monitor 1>AVPro Edge AC-EX100-444-KIT>Cat6a F/UTP>Samsung 65Q9FN (HDMI4) Ethernet is Extended in Addition to HDMI. For some reason, there is only wireless connections for the TV/TiVo. Both have Ethernet enabled. Still checking the BluRay. It’s not showing up either as wired. I have the exact setup out of Denon Zone 2 to another room with complete working ethernet. Any ideas? Bad Cat Run? But it’s sending A/V fine. Bad Ethernet on Extender? I hope that all made sense. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Mitch. I guess when I deleted and added the C4 app to my phone it created a second incident of my device on my account. I had to enable the informational alerts for that one and delete the old one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, so I deleted my C4 app and reinstalled. Logged back into the app and I’m no longer getting push notifications, but my wife still is. What am I missing, I definitely checked my boneheaded mistake I had with my wife’s phone before ...(notifications were not enabled for the C4 app on her phone), but mine is enabled. Feel like it has something to do with uninstalling and reinstalling the app. What am I missing? Also, I set up some when/then scenarios that were working fine (I noticed some weird behaviors last night... hopefully just a glitch), but I want to edit the text of a push notification for a when/then automation I created a while back. I can’t see where that’s an option in when/then, unless I delete the push part and recreate it. Maybe I have to do that in Composer? Since I work for a dealer, I have a pro login, but I don’t bother. I really much rather have@msgreenf. (Mitch) perform adds, upgrades and Pro changes. He’s pretty much a genius (don’t get a big head Mitch, but you’re definitely really are so great at this!). As for the latest version of HE, I did notice the new ability to right click. It shows one option to “Rename”, like in Pro, but it doesn’t seem to do anything. There’s also a new “Delete” option and I was able however to finally delete an old Hue Bridge and some bulbs that no longer exist. Anyway - back to the push notifications. What am I missing? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is a great thread. @msgreenf (Mitch), considering I have a house full of Sonos with Alexa native, seems like I’d be better off just sticking with that, but I do own a slew of Google devices as well, just never unboxed. Thoughts are always welcome. On another note - will this in anyway affect Nest integration? In terms of both Google/Nest relationship ...but to take it a step further ...Nest doorbell? I have the thermostat and doorbell. The thermostat integrates, albeit poorly, but I have zero integration of the doorbell. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did. I dumped Philips for TP-Link. For the life of me I could not position the Philips bridge so that all would function. No luck. Seems like the TP-Link stuff works great so far.

Thanks @eggzlot This is what I had originally assumed, but then I got all of this Kasa/TP stuff in my project that works really well with Alan's driver, so I thought I'd put it out there. I don't know which direction to go, axxess versus nyce, I'm only using them to control lighting at this point. Mitch suggested the NYCE. Regardless, I would always do the C4 versions.

You were right. They are actually Zigbee and require a router. So, I have to rethink this. I’m looking for a sensor to fire some lights (ie walk into the kitchen at night). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My plugs and bulbs are amazing, even though I lost an HS110 today. Just died. They’re sending an RMA to replace it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk