Adidaswood

My Denon sounds nice, but two things jump out at me. it is a bit older and maybe new ones fixed this but, when my denon loses power, it absolutely will not turn back on until I've physically touched the power button. Then I'm good for on/off control until it happens again I find the Denon setup to be overly, complicated. People on the internet have written entire guides on how to set up Denon. Is it impossible, no, I just find others are a little more intuitive. Maybe this has changed as of late.

I personally like the Integras. I had a DRX-3.1 installed in my new basement and now I want to throw away my NAD (runs a turn table and TV setup in my office) and my Denon (runs a different surround zone). I just think the setup is easy and clear and they integrate very via IP.

yep reset the keypad yesterday and it still is behaving this way.

Hi All I was burning the midnight oil and I noticed this in my kitchen. This is 2 of 4 in a bank of switches. I looked at the properties of all the dimmers and switches in this bank and they are all set to DIM for a Dark Room. When I click customize, they All show 0 ambient light, except for this guy which shows 94. If i turn all the lights they all the others come up to bright, if I cover the sensor for the switch on the right it goes back to dim. If i cover the sensor on left it doesn't adjust. additionally is there a way to make this particular bank All Bright all the time? Would like to figure out the answer to both questions. When the lights first turn off. After the lights have been off a few seconds

Garbage

or a small wattbox ip unit. give them a button or something to make it easy. Still a band aid though. I might have missed this, but What does Sony say? Firmware updates?

i have this issue with spotify and I used to have it with rhapsody. I bet you can find my old thread wondering about this from like 2 years ago. I think it is an issue with Control4 and how/when it does the randomization. It is crazy annoying to me that we have to do this extra nonsense to make it "shuffle".

We had scrapped the idea of Powerview because everyone said the integration wasn't good. I think i mentioned in another thread I really am liking their horizontal banded shades. But It been hard to find anything like that outside of Hunter Douglas. I wonder if they have a retrofit tilt kit for their stuff.

Hi All, Starting to look at motorized blinds and I have a few questions. the Big one is Somfy or Lutron? but I have some considerations to think about. Quiet - I hear lutron hands down, is somfy really that loud? Outdoor Shades for my patio, it seems like somfy is the only one that has options for this. Does anyone know if Lutron has an outdoor option? Most of the house has Manual Hunter douglas 2.5" wood blinds or Plantation Shutters, but I have a handful that I would like to retro fit with at least Tilt because the colorado sun comes in them in the morning and heats up the kitchen with a quickness. Would love to have them open and close at the right times to avoid that. I found retrofit tilt motors from somfy. Does Lutron make something similar? https://www.floridaautomatedshade.com/Somfy-12-Volt-RTS-Tilt-Motor-1002822-p/1002822.htm I want to outfit the entire basement which we just finished, with automated roller shades. as well as some high up foyer windows that we can't reach, where the sun also comes in the heats up the upstairs. Would you guys mix and match lutron and somfy? or would you just go somfy and deal with the "noise". If lutron, what integration and models work best? Caseta, RadioRA, Homeworks? If Somfy, what integration and Models do you recommend? RTS, something else? Really appreciate all of your input and help

same here.

I worked it out last night. I had missed the alternate communicator setting and then I had to delete my account in DLS and create a new one. interesting though, it wouldn't auto detect my panel. if I specified the panel and told it to connect via IP, it connected right up. I did all the pre setup configs via the keypad as you said. now to the integration... i'll post back if I have issues.

so I'm having a heck of a time getting the DLS software to even recognize my panel. I can however connect to the tl280. panel is ver 1.3 and tl280 5.0. Maybe i should start with the basics. are you guys doing everything over Ethernet on your lan or are you plugging in with that pc link cable? I assumed I could do this all over ethernet/IP.

That is good information. One of the things I am concerned about is if i'll loose control of that dimming if I need a manual adjustment. I guess at this point all I can do is try it. This has been a very educational thread.

ok I think I'm following. so if the scene is bound to the button, the led will change just based on the loads reaching the designated state in the scene's properties. no further programming required if the scene is called in programming you would still need to change the LED based on the triggers. right now I'm just trying to get status on a few scenes on a button LEDs, as I'm just starting to think more about living with scenes instead of individual loads. So much like an LED might follow the load on a single light. I want my LED to follow the scene on or off status. and I'm trying to decide if I should bind the scenes to the buttons. If I'm way off let me know.

sorry I should have been more clear. I assumed we all agree we are talking about lighting scene tracking and that you would know exactly what I mean by my jibberish... I'm just saying I always use programming to change the LED colors but that gets really cumbersome after a while trying to remember all the different colors and timing about when they should be that color or not. so I'm simply asking, if I press a button and it is programmed to run a scene. Can that tracking be implemented and utilized, or does that absolutely require the button be bound to the scene? I hope that is more clear, cause I'm not sure I can explain it any better. I've probably severely overcomplicated a simple thing here. I'm definitely sure I'm confused.

is there a way this works when if I use "Programmed" instead of "Follow Connection" As I never had my dealer bind any scenes to a button, I've always done it through programming. I'm guessing No.

Nope I ordered some Nyce Tilt Sensors, from my dealer, to get status on the doors back to the controller - http://nycesensors.com/products/ncz3014/ or you can do hardwired Garage door sensors like these https://www.alarmsystemstore.com/products/tane-66wg-track-mounted-overhead-door-contact and then you have to use a z2io or it needs to be wired back to your controller. I think, either way, you would need to hack a remote for control since these new openers don't work the same as some of the old school openers. Just to restate what has been covered in this thread numerous times.

that would be awesome. I am also using the 3 button remote as I have two motors to deal with. Based on looking at the board and how close together everything is. I'm reprogramming the board to use buttons 1 and 3 and then I'm going to solder to those terminals. My initial assessment was to use the underside of the board as well. I'll break out some cat5 and give it a whirl. I've got 4 of the remotes so if I mess one up its cool. Would still love to see a couple photos for science.

I'm working on this project right now. I tried the soldering with some 18ga wire I had on hand. It didn't go well it seems too big for the application, too much solder is needed at least for my unskilled hands. I see you used what looks like cat5 in the picture. I find that sometimes that can be too delicate when soldering, again probably my limited soldering ability. Is that the wire the dealers use for this application or is there another gauge you like to use with a little more "structure" I'll certainly give the cat5 a go. Just curios what people are using in this application

That's good to know. Maybe I will look into tracking down that software. Seems like I might run into the need

I dunno. I'd think it would be one of their communicator modules of which there are a couple different flavors. However I opted not to bother with the DLS5 and I'm having initial programming done for 149 by my vendor. I figure I can handle any additions with the keypad. alarm system store who i used was very knowledgeable and and answered all my questions on the phone. I even called back multiple times with follow up questions as I was planning. I know a few others on this forum have used them as well. I will say though, if I have a need to upgrade firmware. I may need to look into the software, but for now I'm going to ask them to make sure my panel is on the right version before they send it out.

for programming you can use the pre programmed option through the vendor. They will work with you to have the system panel programmed before they send it out. I'm using alarmsystemstore.com or you can use an alarm installer or if you want to do it you can use the Keypad that you purchase with the system. I think there may be a software programming option, but I'm not doing that so I didn't spend much time looking into it. to integrate into Control4 I'm going to be using the TL280RE module and then My dealer will install the driver. Beyond that For Control4 programming it will be a combo of my dealer and myself using ComposerHE.

after a bunch of reasearch and homework, I just ordered a DSC Neo system and I am gonna do self monitoring via Control4. You can also get their Alarm.com cellular module and do self monitoring through their interactive service for like $14 a month. They will also do monitored services as well, but I didn't look much into that. Neo is their hybrid wired and wireless system. It can do both. And as others have mentioned it will integrate pretty easily.