Elvis

So you think it is important to put the USG in the mix so I can manage it? It would give me the ability to attach my AT&T hotspot to WAN2 and use it as a fail-over connection to the Internet, so this seems smart. The only change I'd make to your diagram, and this is a question, is to connect the two APs directly to the core switch. Seems unnecessary to add a switch between the APs and the core switch -- unless I'm missing something?

https://www.cambiumnetworks.com/products/pmp-distribution/

No AT&T equipment here. The ISP (signalnetbroadband.com) leases space on the AT&T tower across the lake from us. He has Cambium Networks "point to many" equipment on the tower. He installs a Cambium Networks dish for each client pointing at the tower and that dish connects to an ISP-owned Cambium Networks router in my house. ISP has equipment on nearly every AT&T tower in the area that has a fiber connection (vs. microwave, I think). The tower has AT&T fiber to the tower and he is an enterprise customer to AT&T, which makes it look like I am an AT&T enterprise customer. The router is a CN 195. Not sure of the model number of the dish, but it looks like ePMP 190.

Ring has Halloween chimes. Don't know if it this is new this year or not. But I turned up the volume on the chime to the max and put a spooky sound on the motion alert and then another on the doorbell press. UPS guy loved it. First Halloween in this neighborhood so we're hoping the neighborhood grandkids will visit and trick or treat out here in the boonies.

Control4's delay is a lot more apparent because they don't show you anything until the connection is complete (sessions, etc.) before displaying the app's user interface. Lutron and others immediately open the app and then update the contents. So it looks even faster than it already is. For example, I killed the Lutron app, turned off WiFi on my phone, changed some lights, and re-launched the app. The app started right away, but it took it 2-3 seconds to show the status of the lights and shades. Still, it only took 2-3 seconds off the network. Control4 took 8-10 seconds, and then another 2-3 seconds to accurately display the status of my garage door.

This is how I used to have it. AT&T Fiber <-> ISP Point to Point Dish on AT&T Tower <-> ISP Point to Point Dish on my property <-> ISP Router in my house <-> UniFi 8 Port PoE Switch The UniFi 8 port switch <- -> AC Pro AP Upstairs/Backyard -> AC Pro AP Downstairs/Front Yard -> UniFi 24 port switch -> Alarm -> Lutron SmartBridge Pro -> EA-3 Which I considered the UniFi 8 port switch the "core" switch, as you say. Rather than breaking open the new unmanaged switches, I just put the Switch 8 in the entertainment center to run the EA-3, TV, Receiver, ATV, Xbox, etc. and put the Switch 24 in the new network closet. Since there were 4 ports open on the ISP's router, I just hooked the two switches and two APs to it. Right now my wife's two PCs (wired connections) are getting the best performance for her Zoom video conferencing. The ISP will do IP reservations, etc. on the router for me if needed. I'm tempted to leave it alone for now and after I complete the whole home audio, see if it needs tweaking.

I can't admin the ISPs router, which is required. AT&T Fiber <-> ISP Point to Point Dish on AT&T Tower <-> ISP Point to Point Dish on my property <-> ISP Router in my house <-> My network How big is my internet connection? Not sure what you mean. We get 30 down/10 up on a good day. So I have a UniFi Security Gateway (USG) I could add between the ISP's router and my network so I could administer that USG router. Right now I just have the switches and APs connected directly to the 4 ports on the ISPs router.

Make sure it is not the battery.

For what I hope is the last time, got our new (old) house wired today. We could only get one wire to the TV cabinet in the family room. And that was a struggle. All the networking gear is being moved to a closet that will work nicely when the room it's in gets the home theater makeover one of these days. Right now I'm going from the ISP's router (ISP only admin) to two Unifi managed switches. Two Unifi AC-Pro APs are connected to one switch for wireless. I was considering running the two APs off the router and each switch off the router. (Only 4 open ports). I'd put the 24 port switch in the network closet. I'd put the 8 port switch in the TV cabinet in the family room, and I'd fill all 7 of the available ports there. However, I do have a USG I could use so I could admin the router. I also have an 8 and 24 port unmanaged NetGear ProSafe switches, both are new. I can get my hands on a PakEdge router, also. My priority right now is to maximize the bandwidth Mon-Thu for my wife's work, she's teaching/lecturing online from home this semester. Otherwise, it's Airplay 2 audio/Sonos via Airplay2 receivers/ATV, video streaming through the ATV or Hopper. Right now the EA-3 is just acting as a universal remote and garage door opener. We aren't using any of its audio capabilities. Thanks for the inputs.

From Lutron... "NATURAL LIGHT OPTIMIZATION: Enable your blinds to automatically adjust the amount of tilt based on the position of the sun for maximum comfort throughout the day." I told them I wanted this for my roller shades and the non-committal response was that "it's coming."

As soon as you guys send a link to the switch that won't work when there is a fork or spoon in the damn garbage disposal, then I'll be impressed.

I applaud this.

I installed a Serena shade in the master bathroom over the tub (would've been very hard to reach). Added two more to the master bedroom, also. Added some voice commands, Sunshine and Privacy to open/close. Scheduled the blinds to close at bedtime. Setting up the two that face the morning sun to open incrementally as the sunrises. Added some voice commands that simplifies everything for her. Not that exciting, but "happy wife" applies here, for sure.

I agree with both of you. I thought @RAV's post was one of the best in the thread. I don't have a local Lutron dealer, or Sonos, or Ecobee, or Control4. But like you said, I have only needed help from my Control4 remote integrator. When Lutron's little puck integrates all the pieces of the pie with little or no help from me, and works all the time (0 down time) and pushes it all into HomeKit and/or Google Home and/or Alexa with no help from anyone -- I was sold. Is it DIY, technically, I guess it is. But it is less work for me than the D in DI4ME. DI4ME should mean less work for me. With Control4, eh not so much.

Yes, it worked perfectly for us and I should've mentioned it. Which makes me wonder... if they went to the trouble of adding Spotify Connect, why didn't they do the same with Airplay and Airplay 2, instead of "Shairbridge"

I ended up buying 3 more of these from @DawnGordon and still super happy. We did find two great local dealers. So that allowed us to price shop and see other options. And Dawn is right, when you actually compare apples to apples (same fabric, same valance) the prices are very comparable. And even when the dealer is super helpful, you have to actually see the price written down to get the real number. I mean they are selling, so it I get it -- but what's said on the showroom floor usually doesn't equal what is written down when it comes down to placing an order. "Oh, you want THAT fabric" and "Oh, you want it motorized, that's right..." and next thing you know you are very close to the same price. For me, since my system is running on Lutron, it was an easy decision. We bought the remaining blinds from The Blind Place in Tyler. And there is definitely value added when they show up and install them... a LOT of them. Of the motorized shades we saw, the Serena were still noticeably quieter.

"It's the network." It certainly can be, but this is the most over-used excuse ever.

I did not "ditch" it, but almost. I use Lutron for lights and shades, Ecobee thermostats, Airplay2/Sonos for sound, and HomeKit to integrate it all. C4 is pretty much an expensive TV remote. I do use it for some automation (motion sensors). It was an easy decision for me. I watched my family use our tech, based on C4, for 4 years. The only C4 equipment they used was the SR-260 remote (and the HC-250, later an EA-3 of course driving it). Perhaps it was just happenstance that I bought receivers that embraced Spotify and Airplay, but my family never used C4 audio. They airplay'ed right out of the music app. They "spotified" right out of the Spotify app -- and got instance gratification. Whereas "shairbridge" and C4 was a complete bust along with the C4 app. It looked cool, having all those Airplay targets but it was too delayed, or too glitchy, or it just didn't work. The whole time Airplay, Spotify Connect, and other network based sources worked great if you took C4 out of the mix. They still like to hit the red button and oooh and ahhh over the OSD occasionally. But with the crazy number of channels, even the 260 (and NEEO) are often on the sidelines. They'll grab a voice remote instead.

This soundbar has a bluetooth transmitter. We love it as we can put in our earbuds and crank it up while on the treadmill. But it does not auto-connect. We have to turn it on, go to settings and bluetooth and let it pair. Happens fast once the headset/earbuds are paired. Wondering if I can automate this somehow. Could I send IR codes to it from the EA3? <Home> <Setup> <Audio> <Bluetooth> <Enter> Other ideas welcome. @chopedogg88

The problem I'm having is inconsistent response time. So much so that I just don't use it anymore. The only gotta have reason to use it (for us) is the garage door opener, and when we needed it to work, it didn't.

As Cy said, I don't think the HC-250s are worthless. Just have to find someone that needs one. An HC-250 with one of the remotes might be just a fit for someone wanting to get started in C4 for cheap.

(See Mitch's remarks below. Works on RF.) I would give this careful consideration. Always hot means you're counting on C4 to work, the Bond IO driver to work, the Bond device/hardware to work, and the WIFI to be working. And Mitch is is an expert in all of this, meaning when something goes wrong he fixes it himself (I would assume, anyway). But wiring hot eliminates the cost of retrofitting wall switches. Pulling wire 4 times to 4 wall switches could easily make this an easy decision, at least cost-wise. Edit: And with RF control as a backup, this is probably a good choice. I'm assuming you have a dedicated light switch to turn the lights on, not necessarily the fan light. Having to hunt around for the remote to turn on the fan light could be frustrating.

Yep, I picked the wrong fan for the job (outdoor porch, high ceiling) before moving from Kerrville. Then I listened to my electrician and made the same mistake again. He did me right on the lighting and boat lifts, but I should've trusted my own experience. It doesn't matter how well integrated the fan is, or how nice it looks, if it doesn't perform. These two fans would be great inside for the reasons you mention.

Hi Jason, The wireless music bridge is not worth $5, in my opinion. The HC-250s don't work with OS3. Just some feedback. Good luck. -Jack

1. Their fans have a decent CFM rating, but don't produce adequate wind speed. Typical of long, thin blade fans. A smaller diameter fan with same CFM equals faster wind speed. 2. Remote control only. I have wall mounted control instead of a walk-around remote. The wall mount is basically an A/C powered remote that fits in a single gang box. In both cases, the remotes have very poor feedback and are soft plastic touch buttons. Poorly labeled. 3. Had one at previous house wired through an integrated switch. Turning on the switch sent power to the fan and it would turn on in the last state. However, it took long enough that someone flipping the switch would think "Oh, wrong switch" and turn it back off. It was like it had to boot up. Of course, this caused problems when someone went outside and tried to turn it on with the remote -- had to make sure the inside switch was on first. Or if someone previously turned the fan off with the remote, powering it on at the switch did nothing. 4. Value. I think it is very poor value. 10 year old fans at the old house put out more of breeze and were fully integrated by replacing the light switch with a smart switch and fan with a fan speed controller. Buying a Minka with an integrated Bond controller doesn't improve the physical performance of the fan, or the physical remote.