DLite

Yes, exactly. I should have been clearer. Plug the POE injector into power. And then run a (presumably short) ethernet cable directly from the POE injector to the T4. At no point does this need to be connected back to your network. Then put the T4 on wifi, and you should be set. I used this exact setup for a few days while I was waiting for my electrician to run a new ethernet cable to my T4, and it worked fine.

I assume you must be referring to an in-wall T4, since the tabletop T4 is AC powered only. If so, you don't need an actual ethernet connection there. Get a POE injector, plug it in (or get power to it however you like), and then run an ethernet cable from the POE port of the injector to your T4. That will provide power to the T4. Next, select wifi access in the network settings of the T4 screen, and that will give it a network connection.

We have a Nucleus+, because we are powering 12 zones for Roon and wanted C4 integration. If you aren't doing multi-room streaming to many different zones, you don't need the Nucleus+. And, if you aren't doing C4 integration, you don't even really need a Nucleus. In that case, you're much better off running Roon on an existing computer or on a dedicated (but vastly cheaper) box that runs Roon. The Roon forum features a bunch of people who've put together their own inexpensive boxes to run Roon -- if you want to go that route, I would ask for some ideas there. However, I would probably first just try it on your MacBook and see how it goes.

That makes sense. Our household is all-Sonos and heavy on touch screens, so we are in one of Roon's sweet spots. The only other thing you might want to check before throwing in the towel is the Roon app itself. If you have a free Saturday afternoon, I think you can download a free 30-day trial, or maybe pay $10 for one month of access. I end up using the iOS and desktop Roon app more than anything else, because I find it so powerful and fun to use.

Thank you, that is very helpful and sounds pretty good to me.

As far as I have been able to tell, the Roon driver does not support programmatically calling playlists from Roon. You would have to call playlists from a touch screen, C4 app, or the Roon app itself. As an unrelated aside, after upgrading all our touch screens to T4s from T3s, scrolling through long lists of artists/albums/tracks in the Roon driver no longer crashes the touch screen; therefore, the touch screen interface is now much more reliable. I realize that doesn't help you if you really want keypad functionality though.

While I do not have a chime, this happens periodically to one or another of our T3s — they get grayed out in the intercom screen. Power-cycling the problematic T3s usually resolves the issue.

Hi, I'm considering/planning for a POE Chime installation. Currently, all our other cameras at home are Nest, so we don't have an NVR. Is it possible to install the Chime without an NVR on the network, or is the NVR essential? In particular, I care most about getting real-time video of a person at the front door; will that work without an NVR? More generally, what functionality will I lose without installing an NVR? Thanks!

The ZW1002 driver is the other one on that same page. So, you should be all set, I would think.

Pretty sure this is the driver I'm using -- to be specific, it's the ZW1001 driver on that page. Looks like your dealer can just download the driver file from the web page.

We have about half a dozen GE 45605 Z-Wave in-wall outlets, and they have been integrated into our C4 system for years, with zero issues.

Yes. It was a bug in the driver. A subsequent driver update fixed the issue.

The updated announcements feature on the latest Sonos driver no longer causes this particular annoyance, but you need newer Sonos gear to be able to take advantage of the improvement.

Hi Ferbor, Thanks for clarifying. I do find that the driver becomes less reliable in reporting closures when there are many zones open. We had an HVAC outage last year where we left many windows open, and I remember we had situations where the system reported false closures. The best you can do here is just increase the zone closure timeout. On the other hand, I have found it pretty reliable at reporting zone opening, even with many zones open — motion sensor programming should work ok, assuming my experience carries over to your system. I do have programming triggered off zone openings and closures, and it works very reliably for me. However, we rarely have more than 3-4 zones open at once. Try the longer zone closure timeout and see if it helps at all. Hopefully it does. Good luck!!

I couldn't convince my dealer that this was worth submitting a ticket -- he is of the school of thought that I don't need so many on/off button types! Fortunately, I used the offending button types pretty sparingly -- only 6 of them in my project. I bit the bullet and had them switched out to one of the functioning types. The reprogramming was only slightly painful. Hopefully there's a fix, and I can switch back, because I did like those button types for certain use cases.

I am a longtime user of @alanchow's Chowmain Experience Buttons suite, which is awesome. Recently, I added some T4 touch screens, and I have found that two Chowmain experience buttons -- On/Off Type 1 and On/Off Type 2 -- do not show up on the T4's. They continue to show up normally on the T3's in the project and on our iOS apps. Is there some way to resolve this, or do I have to switch to one of the other icons in the suite? (For whatever reason, On/Off Types 3 and 4 do show up on the T4's.) Thanks!

I have a Honeywell Vista128BPT connected via the HSIM to Control4, and I am on OS 3.2. I have worked through some zone status problems. Here are some things to check; hopefully, one of these will help. 1. Earlier versions of the HSIM driver did not properly update zone status. The one released in April (maybe it was v118 or something) seemed to fix that. Make sure you are running the latest version. (In my case, the early driver version did not update zones for those of us who run the Honeywell TotalConnect module alongside the HSIM. The more recent driver versions seem to have fixed that problem.) 2. I have 67 zones. It sounds like you have more. The more zones you have, the longer you'll need your zone closure timeout to be. I would suggest using the maximum zone closure timeout of 180 seconds, which is what I use. 3. I have had issues, particularly after a driver update, where the zones disappear temporarily. Go into the security panel/Zones screen on one of your navigators, and make sure you can see all your zones there. If not, change the number of zones in your driver properties to try to get C4 to read the zones back in. I usually just add one zone, click set, and then subtract one zone to return to the original number of zones. 4. Note that the zone closure timeout is only relevant if you have multiple zones open. If you open a single zone, C4 should update instantly, and if you close that zone, C4 will also update instantly. For testing purposes. just try opening a single zone -- preferably a window or door -- to see if C4 updates properly. As a first step, check to see if you see the zone open in your security panel/Zones screen on one of your navigators. That will work even if there is something wrong with your contact sensor binding, so it is a good first step in troubleshooting. HSIM provides the functionality you are seeking, so hopefully you'll be able to get it working. I can confirm that the driver works very well for me in updating zone status. I hope you find a solution and get this working!

Please forgive the dumb question, but what is the tool to use for this?

That is all good news. Thanks!

Next week, we are (finally) getting all our T3 touch screens replaced with T4's. Will the in-wall T4's be able to use the same mounting hardware already installed for the in-wall T3's? Or will the mounting hardware have to be replaced? Thanks!

One reason this can happen is that the Roku is sending the wrong resolution to your TV. Try rebooting the Roku, and after that, go to settings/display type. Choose auto display type and go through the steps to confirm it. Or, if auto is already selected, choose a display type that your TV definitely supports and confirm it. If the problem was indeed one of resolution, this _should_ get your picture back.

I got the same unhelpful reply from Bromic. They also sent along some documentation, but it was not clear how to relate it to C4, and Bromic could not provide any follow-up. We are currently planning to install the Bromic heaters with on/off control via C4 using this device: https://www.elkproducts.com/product/heavy-duty-relay-contactor-9200/ The ELK relay gets wired to the heater and to your main electrical panel. On the other end, it can connect to a C4 wireless outlet or a C4 switch. I should note we haven’t gotten to the installation stage yet, so this is just a plan so far.

3.2.1

Huh. That might be an issue, because ADT pulse might remotely control the security panel using the same connection method that TotalConnect does. Anyway, maybe give the new driver a shot and see if it helps.

In case anyone else was ever experiencing this problem, I wanted to share an update and resolution. This turned out to be a bug in the new HSIM driver that affected those of us who use Honeywell TotalConnect alongside Control4. My dealer reported the details to Control4 back in January, and I'm happy to report that the latest version of the driver fixes the issue. Yay, Control4!