fleon

Yes, I much prefer these: https://axionlighting.com/product/axion-android-poe-touch-panels/ So much cheaper too....

@neil12011 That's the driver. Right now it's got some bugs. Won't correctly detect when it's streaming and when it's stopped. The developer is working on it. I have it working kinda ok with audio sense on my matrix switch, but it's clearly only half-functional that way.

Yes, you can activate a dynamic Hue scene. It's actually incredibly easy, but requires a third party driver. https://www.unilogiq.com/en/control4-drivers It's confusingly titled, but the Hue Motion Driver is great. Actually reads the scenes from the hub and lets you activate any scene. If it's set to auto-play (in the hue app) then it's dynamic autoplay. However, I don't think you can pause the scene with the driver.

Anyone else having issues with the C4 app after updating to Android 14? My drivers which have a web component/UI (Tempest Weather, 4Driver Magic Buttons) immediately crash the C4 app. Using a Galaxy Fold 5 currently.

You have it working correctly? I can't get it to work with C4 correctly. It is recognized as an Alexa speaker, and it turns on, but I can't get it to auto select the room or the source. I have this Linkplay driver https://drivercentral.io/platforms/control4-drivers/audio-video/linkplay-technology/ The driver never triggers anything for me. How did you get it to work?

Yeah, I saw the driver. Was just wondering if anyone had any experience with them. Build Quality/screen/etc. Personally, I never use my touchscreens for intercom, so that functionality isn't that important to me.

Anyone used one of these yet? https://axionlighting.com/product/axion-android-poe-touch-panels/

I know. My point is that the 100g is too small.

See - that's my point. These are residential switches designed for MOIP. However, the lack a backplane (like you would find in a high-end commercial switch) which lets them reliably go beyond the 24 ports they have. Commercial switches have that - these don't. This is a product line with a lot of engineering drawbacks. They don't have the high-end features you need for 10g, and they aren't big enough to be useful for any of my clients that might consider spending 7-11k for a switch.

Ok, user error, wrong remote. Don't ask. However, I get to the point now where it says it's toggling IP control, reboots, but then still says IP control False. It's also not getting an IP from DHCP. Is there another place where I can tell it to use DHCP? I'm not sure what the problem is here.

They reintroduced a PC app? I didn't see that. I know they were redoing the web interface, but a PC app? I'm interested - do you have a link to more info?

Yeah, they did. However, the interconnect design is a real issue.

I am using their remote. But there's no "A".

So, talked with the Araknis guys last week. The new 10g switches don't seem to make a lot of sense, and even the engineers agreed with me - their interconnects are only 100g. This makes anything over 24 ports a nightmare for 10g. They need an interconnected backplane if they are serious about 10g being useful for real networking. In any event, I can't see much use for a 10G connection right now outside of 4:4:4 or 8k. The switches also have some compatibility issues. So I don't really see the value for most people right now.

Bumping this back up. Hoping someone has a suggestion.... the documentation for setting up the settop box for IP control is : 1) Activate IP Control on your STB (this requires the Xfinity Remote and an Ethernet connection to the SB): * Press and Hold the Xfinity button for 3 seconds. * Press the "DOWN", "DOWN", "3" buttons. * This will open the STB Diagnostics Menu (there will be several seconds of lag while it loads). * Scroll down to 'Remote Controls' and select. * Scroll to IP Control and select. * With the Diagnostics IP Control page open: - Press and Hold "A" for 5 seconds. - Press "4", "7", "7" buttons ("I","P","R"). - Press and Hold "A" for 5 seconds. * A message will tell you that you are activating IP Control and your STB will reboot. The remote control does not have an "A". Any ideas how to progess past that step?

I have several unifi setups. Including at my house. After living with my own setup for several years now, it wouldn't be my personal choice anymore. Unifi is pretty, but has a lot of issues. 1) things drop off of wifi for no reason. Like pump controllers, the Halo remotes, a variety of other iot devices. This is way more common on my unifi APs than on just about any other network gear I've used 2) it's damn frustrating. They change the UI all the time for no reason. There are options on the "legacy" interface they never bothered to put on the new interface. They move basic options all over the place every few months. 3) a lot of the basic features don't work correctly. For several months, the client reporting didn't work at all. You would type it an IP address, that unify had clearly given a DHCP address to, and should know about, and it wouldn't show up as a device in the network. The network topology map looks pretty, but often is just simply wrong. Spanning tree doesn't seem to work at all sometimes. 4) they release half baked updates. The dream machine was a nightmare for the first two years, with basic features that didn't work at all. Like DHCP.... There are a lot of other things too that just bother me. My point here is that it looks really really nice, but is not exactly reliable. This is based on a lot of installs.....

If you do, want to DM me?

That is, and it's discontinued unfortunately.

Anyone have a suggestion for a tilt sensor? The Nyce one is now discontinued, and it's the only C4 one I know of....

The local allnet was not at all surprised when I had several failures in a row. I think there is a QA problem with Snap right now . Their cameras also are pretty poor quality recently, too. But to your point - at one point, yes. I think they were very good. I'm not at all comfortable with them anymore.

I've had two go bad in the same location - first one wouldn't boot one day. Next one had an error less than 1 year later with an internal short. Then at another client location, had a different model die. Then another one with a dead battery after 9 months. Then another that wouldnt' stop beeping. That's too many errors in less than 18 months.

Custom buttons? There are custom buttons. What am I missing?

I also have Wattbox UPSs in my projects, but I'm now about to ditch all of them and get something different. I haven't really shopped for UPSs in a while - anyone have an opinion on what's good? They basically all seem like a commodity at this point, so I'm not sure there's any real difference. Hoping to get some opinions from the rest of you out there....

It's not much different than the other similar systems. And those have a terrible interface. Having said that, I haven't tried mine yet.

So, Rachio now has a hose bib valve. I just picked one up to play with - no idea how well it works! (Just thinking it might be a bit more elegant than the Pi, depending on what exacting you are doing with it)