fleon

Yes, the fact that Default Dim color is checked by default is totally wrong, in my opinion.

That's a cool driver. But having looked at the documentation, it doesn't seem to do what I was talking about.

Hmm. If you are using Voice Genie, you can use %TIME. I'm not sure if this is a system variable or one in Voice Genie, however.

Which one? That might help, but I don't think there's a third party driver that does what I'm looking for. Would love to pick up a new trick, however...

You mean with all the Hue bridges in your C4 project? Then yes, it does. Alexa accesses your Control 4 project, not Hue directly. All the lights across all the bridges are reachable through Alexa. Including being able to dim them and change colors (at least if you are on 3.3).

I also guess my house is a bit more complex than the simple things you can do with connections. Almost every one of my buttons don't just turn on lights. Many of mine have time conditionals, and a bunch of state checks. I don't see the benefit of connection bindings, I guess.

Is there a way to do what I'm doing without programming?

I actually did away with connections and went to programming only for one reason (which takes a lot more programming, btw). I have my "Lights" button cycle through scenes instead of the ramp/fade connection. So, hit it the first time, it's bright; 2nd time it's dim; 3rd is a warmer color; 4th is reds/orange; 5th is a nightlight; 6th off. Saves me having to use a lof of buttons or remember what single/double/triple tap does. So it's a preference for you. I didn't like how connections worked for me. And no, I don't see any speed difference.

Yeah, that should be the same one. The Unilogiq driver (when I got it at least) had the motion sensor driver and the gateway driver bundled. The driver allows you to access the list of scenes on the hue hub and activate the scene instead of just a group. It's also very, very fast. There's wifi in a hue bridge? I didn't know that. You could also get a wifi to ethernet adapter. A bunch of people make them. Haven't used one in years however. I bit the bullet a couple of years ago and ran some wires around my house then just patched it back up.

I have not. I haven't even had to change the default zigbee channel. As far as programming, yes - 3.3 improved things a lot, but prior to that, I had to sometimes have a delay in activating lights when a scene was complicated. I got around all of that by using (and I still use) the unilogiq hue driver. I haven't needed a repeater. Since the hue hubs are so cheap (you can literally get them free during a sale of the starter packs for hue lights) I just put a new hue hub near the lights.

@Technomagenope, you must have something else going on. I have 11 bridges on the 3.3 driver and they are working correctly. Make sure to go into Connections and make sure the LIGHT driver is bound to the 2nd bridge. Then go back to System Design and look in the light dropdown. if you are seeing the lights on Bridge 1, the light driver is bound incorrectly. You should NOT be able to see the lights on both bridges at the same time in the light dropdown.

Well, not to disagree with Cyknight, but I have three whole home hue projects. Two of them are quite large - one has about 150 lights, the other has about 300. Programmed correctly, I have about 200 lights that all come on simultaneously with zero issues. The motion sensors are instant. The color works correctly. The voice control for brightness and color works. Hate to say it, but I get more "popcorn" on effect with the C4 zigbee light than I do with the Hue lights. And although I haven't done a DMX install in quite a few years, hue has been rock solid and way cheaper. Not to mention so much more flexible and easy to setup. So I'll have to disagree with you on this one.

Yeah, I have ....quite a few Hue bulbs, almost all on dimmers. I have them set to never go off. Haven't had a problem yet.

Why say that?

2 wire decoder? Like Add-A-Zone? If that what they are putting in, good luck - they are a nightmare. Cheaper for the landscaper running it, but a nightmare later.

I agree with @ekohn00on the seperate network. I've had several devices that work fine when they simply "can't reach" the internet, but refuse to work when they hit a firewall with errors like "open a port", etc etc.

That's.... interesting.

Hey @msgreenf, I should have quoted you so you'd see this. Can you share what fixed it for you?

You could use a multi-experience button. One hit is open, the next is 10% close, next is 20% close, etc etc. Then the last button cycles back to open. Not exactly a dimmer, but it would work that one with just one button.

Want to share it?

@msgreenfI'm on an insider build - have you figured out a fix for this?

Anyone have an update on this? I'm still having the issue.

Yeah, did that. My disappointment is that we had reps from JAP involved before even buying the first box, promising this would work. I've just had way too many issues with JAP to ever recommend it.

Some of that is true- I do think the k-scape is ... Unique. However the Binary MOIP handled it just fine out of the box. I don't agree about the switch issue. One is a neutral reason- the project ended up adding a lot of sources as well, so that's not really anyone's fault. The other reason I disagree is just personal- the benefits of no one second delay on switching sources is just not worth several thousand dollars to me. Not to mention the rewiring.....

Sure- and for some context. I have two different JAP systems, put in by two different dealers. Different TVs, mostly different sources, etc. So the common denominator is JAP. I originally was going to put in an HDMI matrix for one and only one reason - I bought a Kaleidescape and wanted to distribute it throughout my house b/c of the high cost of the player. However, I wanted to be sure that the quality in my theater room wasn't degraded at all- full 4k, ATMOS, etc in that one room. I was ok with some reductions in quality in the other rooms. So - enter dealer #1. "You should get JAP". Before I ever bought the system, my dealer had setup a call with someone from JAP. I told them what I was looking for- "no problem". So I got their recommended setup with a passthrough transmitter for my Kaleidescape, a Roku, my Comcast box, and a Bluray player. It gets installed. Immediately the Kaleidescape doesn't pass Atmos to the theater anymore. A month or two of tweaking doesn't fix it. I get angry. JAP gets involved again. I get a new transmitter with beta firmware. No help. JAP gets directly involved and hard codes EDID codes. Nope. Also, half of my Samsung TVs don't work with audio correctly. (Admittedly, this may be because Samsung stopped supporting DTS in a few models, but again, JAP is supposed to be able to correct for this.) Eventually, I end up getting another Kaleidescape JUST for the rest of the house and set it to ONLY two-channel audio. This mostly fixes it. So by this point I have a different dealer. I put in another system at a different house. I'm told there's no real alternative to JAP. So ... another JAP system while the house is begin built. At this point I've noticed some very annoying other issues with JAP. I routinely have to call and have my driver re-authorized when my C4 system reboots. Or my JAP switch reboots. This is fairly constant - it freezes up at least 1-2 times a month. My JAP switch (Luxel. for those of you who don't know, JAP only is recommended and works on a couple vendor's switches) dies. I order another one. BTW, these aren't cheap compared to most networking switches. I get it installed and reconfigured. I hope that my prior problems with the driver might be related to bad hardware! Nope. Still same problems. I eventually get a CA10, hoping that the problem was maybe C4 related? Nope. By this point, house #2 has been finished up. JAP system, under entirely new dealer, installed. Have the same problems with freezing. Needing to call a dealer. Getting license reauthenticated. This time I have one Kaleidescape just set to two channel audio b/c I've learned the JAP just can't handle it. Fast forward a year. I need to add another TV and I'm out of slots on the luxel switch. The answer is to throw away the luxel and get a 48 port new luxel. $4000. Turns out to be good because another luxel switch died at house 1. So I get to at least re-use the luxel. At this point, I am lucky, my house is struck by lightning and it burns out a few JAP boxes. My insurance company replaces the whole system b/c parts aren't available during covid. At this point, I am certainly not getting another JAP system. Same issues, two houses, three (by this point) dealers? No thanks. I end up with Binary MOIP. Haven't had a problem since. My Kaleidescape now passes audio throughout the whole house without being set to two channel. Haven't had to reboot my luxel switch when it freezes. No calling to re-authenticate drivers. There are a couple drawbacks - it doesn't switch instantly - there's about a one second delay switching sources. However, soooo much better. Also? I can use my Unifi switches. No more $4000 Luxel switches that die constantly. So, your mileage may vary. My mileage was about half a mile to the gallon.