anon2828

Can anyone explain the steps for multiple video end points in a room - for example TV and Projector under 3.2.3?

I am guessing that the Equalizer in Composer for the EA-X (EA-5 in my case) becomes the default if there is no setting in the EQ for each room in the Navigator, or something else? Or should the Equalizer in Composer for the EA-X be set to Bypass? I attempted to mess with the equalizer in Composer while playing music and also having the EQ in Navigator up - it seemed that any settings in Composer's EQ were ignored. Would imagine that the EQ settings are driving behavior of the EA-X controller - correct? Such that those with an audio matrix (Triad here) would continue to leave that in Bypass mode - right?

I fixed it but don't know exactly what made it fixed. I had previously done these steps and Refreshed Navigators and that did not work... 1) In Composer at the Room level, check the box for "Show EQ in Navigator" - this choice is at the bottom. You would think that checking this box would implement the choice for the room you are in, but it didn't work that way for me. 2) Next to "Show EQ in Navigator" click Apply To - pick the rooms to apply to 3) Refresh Navigators 4) The EQ icon will show up to the right of the volume slider in each room it is enabled for.

I'm on it! OK, so where is the Equalizer? I checked the box for "Show EQ in Navigator" in Composer HE and applied to the Room I am listening in. Where in the Navigator does the EQ actually show up? Can't find it anywhere...

msgreenf - does this update allow you to have 2 video sources in the same room - thus eliminating the need for a separate "fake room" ??

I have TechLighting fixtures on the outside of my home. It does appear that the Element / Entra lighting line from TechLighting is a separate product line, but that said, my experience with the brand has been pretty rotten. Of the outdoor fixtures from them that we have (6 in total) we have replaced 5, some of them twice under warranty. Burned out LED elements, finish issues, you name it. All of this stuff is ultimately coming from overseas, so quality I think is always an issue. The level of lighting you are looking at is true architectural lighting. I believe that the installation of that line of lights requires the housings to be taped and mudded into the drywall at the drywall finishing stage. Thus, your increase in cost is not just the fixture/housing, but also the additional drywall finishing for every fixture. Certainly it will look cool as hell and is very high end if money is no object. Personally, I'm not sure I am a fan of true recessed LED lighting where the light source is hidden up in the ceiling and just shining down through an open aperture. That said, it can look very high end and architectural if done right. You will also have far more options for beam spread, and angling the light as opposed to a traditional downlight. I am a huge fan of lighting and spent tons of time doing the lighting design in my home construction. Modern house and every single downlight is aligned with others in a row, lots of careful planning as to where each light was going to go, etc. And guess what? We used LED housings that were more traditional in nature that you can put your choice of any manufacturer's retrofit LED downlight into (from Home Depot to something more high end). In our case we used American Lighting's 3" housing, and we were going to pair with the American Lighting 3" LED (recessed smooth trim), but ended up liking way better the NICOR 3" LED (recessed baffle trim). The electricians were comfortable with the housings and putting the LED downlights in them without a bunch of extra expense or complaining. The integrated trim rings makes it such that mudding in the housing is not required (traditional rough cut around the housing aperture). The light source itself is great with good color accuracy, fantastic lumen output and great warranty. Couple years in and no failures yet (knock on wood because some of them are up 30 feet in the air). Can't focus the beam, or angle it, but we did use some other type of LED fixtures (2") where we needed wall washes. The 3" fixtures look great and modern versus a 4"-6" can light - I don't think anyone would say it looks cheap. All of this saved a ton of money versus going balls to the wall with an architectural line of lighting, makes eventual LED replacement easier, and in the end equation the lighting looks fantastic from inside and outside of the house. Rarely do you look up and focus on the actual light fixture and study it from below whether on or off. PS - I continue to recommend Philips Wiz for tape lights - simple, simple to install, everything you need included (no sourcing tape, driver, Zigbee module), available at Home Depot, comparable in quality to Philips Hue (see online comparisons), 1/2 price of Hue, and with the available driver great integration into Control4 (it does use WiFi as opposed to Zigbee for the record - I've had zero issues and have tons of it for architectural details and studied every available option including the surf from TechLighting, American Lighting).

I don't want to start a flame war here, so here is the kindest way I can put this: Each of us (customer, dealer, 3rd party integration expert, customers who are dealers, etc.) each looks at this issue (and others on here) through our own lens. All of the opinions expressed here are valid and agreement as to one opinion should not be taken as an invalidation of the other opinions posted. Also, this is a forum - by definition a place to express opinions and share information and points of view - also very simple to just ignore a thread you don't like. Bottom line is that Control4 is a system to integrate home automations and disparate smart home devices and IoTs. The market leader in garage doors should be included in that mission. Should not matter who is at fault, it should be addressed and fixed by both companies. Any noise generated here, or Control4 employees reading the forums perhaps gets us closer to a driver based solution (which at least some of us prefer to a soldering solution). Imagine if all of a sudden you could no longer control Sony TVs (versus Samsung for example) unless Control4 paid for access (or whatever is really going on within the issue between Control4 and MyQ which really none of us know for certain) - it would be an issue...same as here.

I just don't understand it. If they integrated with no one it would make more sense. But given the fact they do integrate with brands like Alarm.com and ClaireControls (rightly pointed out that is sold/owned by SnapOne/SnapAV), I just don't get the push back around Control4. Makes zero sense. If there is a fee, pass it on to the customer and see if we will pay it or not. But at least provide a choice. Any ClarieControls users out there that can comment on if they are paying extra for this integration? I'm sure after we hear that answer all of this will make even less sense.

Nothing we don't already know, but here is the official position - pretty sad they cannot get it together with MyQ: Thank you for contacting Control4. Firstly, I apologize for the inconvenience on not being able to integrate with the MyQ system. We do not have any integration directly with MyQ API, and I cannot go into the reasons why. Our teams are aware of the request to have the MyQ API integration as a native option, unfortunately there are factors that are not allowing this at this time.We at Control4 strive to integrate with as many devices and brands as possible. There are multiple factors that do play into that, and not all of them are within our control.Regarding garage doors, we do integrate with garage motors that have the standard contact/relay triggers for local communication. This does not rely on cloud communications, instead uses local contacts for the state, and relays to trigger the motor. We also integrate with Genie/Aladdin door openers using their API on the cloud systems.Please let me know if you have any additional questions or concerns.Thanks,Derrick CainSr. Manager of Customer Advocacy

Thanks chopedogg88 I am betting when projector was added to the room that maybe something got messed up. This is when it is frustrating to someone like me to have to rely on a dealer to fix things in Composer that I could fix that they screwed up in the first place. I just had to correct their faulty programming for putting the screen down when projector goes on that they failed to get right...

RED C4 Button on SR260 Remote Not Launching On-Screen Navigator What do I need to check? Already have done a reboot of the C4 Controller in question.

I went through this decision as well and ended up using an iPad min with the iPort LuxePort mount. It looks fantastic on the wall, can be pulled off to use handheld, and the mount on the wall when the tablet is removed looks good as well. Agree that instant on to the C4 Navigator, Intercom Anywhere, and the idea of a dedicated control isn't there with an iPad... HOWEVER: If you have any other smart home apps that you need to get to that are not 100% integrated into C4, you can access all of them. Good example of above is the cluster F with MyQ garage doors - I can just go over to that app and control them. Hey Siri is nice to have if you have any Apple HomeKit automations. Can also access Alexa app which is nice as well.

Funny, yet not helpful...

Have a Luma 510 NVR with Luma 4k IP-based cameras. Viewing camera grid or individual cameras either through the Control4 Navigator (on iOS) or viewing the Luma NVR direct connected via HDMI there is a lag between real time and what is being displayed of 30 seconds plus. Any ideas on how to fix?

I heard that the replacement program was a PITA for dealers as C4 was apparently overwhelmed with requests. RMAs not completed, etc. My dealer certainly knew I had two SR260 remotes circa 2018 - did they call and ask how they were doing or if I had any issues - no. I thought I was stuck with them until reading here. C4 never put a notice out to customers either that I am aware of. This sort of thing is the dilemma with Control4. In my humble opinion they have yet to strike the correct balance between being customer oriented vs. dealer oriented. I'm happy to pay a dealer for necessary things to keep my smart home running flawlessly - so don't flame me. It is when I miss out on replacement programs, don't know about or get an understandable notice of a service outages (yes I know about the website and ability to sign up for updates, but they frankly are overwhelming or uninterpretable), or cannot rename a device or add something simple in Composer HE that requires a dealer with Composer Pro that I too get a bit perturbed with the C4 business model (not to take this too far off topic, but why not give customers something closer to Composer Pro - you break it so bad that it needs a dealer to fix it then so be it - - auto manufacturers don't bolt the hood of the car down - you can go in and tinker - and guess what - if you f something up so bad that you wreck the car or have to go into a dealer to get it serviced, that's on you)...this is just one more example.

MSgreenf - it is still the 13th - want to put in a claim for me? It didn't say by 5pm...

What if you just became aware of this program? My dealer never made me aware or asked if I had any Sr260 issues - which I do, both screens are super dim, and I just thought I was stuck with them...

This is what it looks like in a Decora wall plate: I would say absolutely to NOT attempt to fit these in a Decora wall plate if you care at all about aesthetics (which one would think is the whole reason to purchase the Contemporary style). While I do not have a Control4 Contemporary wall plate to test, it appears that the top bar and bottom light bar would be almost entirely hidden by the Control4 Contemporary wall plate as the opening for the paddle (or buttons in the case of a keypad) would be significantly smaller. Thus, if you have a gang of switches that include a Decora style or sized switch along with Control4, you are SOL. Also, if you care about your wall plates matching, for example with the wall plates used for your electrical outlets, you are also SOL. Not really sure Control4 thought this whole thing through. I am in a custom build and I did what I think is a very good job of minimizing switch placements and not having piano keyboards of switches (many are hidden in wiring closets) - most of my locations are just a single switch, or in some locations 2. That said, I have several locations where I have a Big Ass Fan switch that is in a dual switch placement with the Control4 switch, and the fan smart switches are all Decora style. I also have a few locations where I have just a dumb $2 Decora style rocker switch next to a Control4 APD (where for example I don't need control) and these would not work there either. Why Control4 could not do this style, but also make it Decora size is beyond me. I will also say that there is some small advantage to being able to "feel" the up and down part of the rocker switch on the old style. Same can be said for Keypads - especially when you have 6 buttons. I may still try the Contemporary where I am getting ready to engrave on keypads that are just on their own (and then require a new wall plate as well), but we'll see. Definitely less excited than at first.

I received a Contemporary Style APD in Snow White. Thought these pictures may be useful for someone like me and South Africa C4 user that were trying to decide if it was worth the swap:

Thanks! Reboot of C4 solved it (*why do I always think of that or realize it last??), but still strange. I'll have to check to see tvOS version.

Funny, but not helpful.

Without telling me to use IR...have been using IP control for years with no issue Tonight AppleTV control through Control4 is down. Reset AppleTV in two different rooms - the little icon of the remote comes up in the upper right corner of AppleTV saying Control4 Remote Connected, yet the SR-260 remote does not work to control AppleTV. All other aspects of room control (AVR volume, etc) through the SR260 work. Controlling AppleTV through the native Apple Remote app on iOS works fine. Any ideas? Related to service outages lately with Control4? Something else? Was working fine literally just an hour ago. No network changes, no one even breathed on C4...

Is there a link anywhere on the forum with HOW TO get the Liftmaster to work with the hardwire solution (with pictures)?

I understand the technicalities, but it is still a total bummer. When we were designing the house I was not as familiar with C4 as I am now, so the difference between a native and 3rd party driver was not known to me (and I am certain others are in the same situation). The implementation I have of MyQ also uses HomeKit. Is there any way to have Control4 allow for control through HomeKit? I am aware of the HomeKit bridge - wonder if that could work - would you still get the icons on the Navigator showing garage door status? What I really want to be able to do is to glance at C4 at the end of the night and see the garage door status, door lock status, alarm status, etc. The only thing missing for me is the garage door...

Appreciate the explanation, but hopefully someone with C4 on here reads that and understands that it is not a good thing. We had zero control when this happened through the app. Luckily I have Composer HE and was able to "manually" close shades for the night. Good reminder to put some double-tap shortcuts into our keypads to control the shades which I think still works locally even when there is a service issue like this...