anon2828

Have a dedicated iPad mini wall mounted (landscape orientation if it matters). It will not display the camera feed in a grid view at all. Shows either a blank gray square or a little icon of a camera with a line through it. When you click on the camera box itself, you get full screen and the camera feed works. Back to the grid, nothing. Latest version of C4 app (deleted and re-downloaded) and latest iOS on iPad mini. Strangely no problems whatsoever on full size iPad, or any phone running the C4 app. Also works perfect through the C4 app on a MacBook with M1 chip where you can natively run iOS apps on your Mac (which is SUPER NICE!!)

Low E here as well, and yes it does cut the signal tremendously.

I have the same issue and same basic structure. We have the Araknis outdoor 700 series AP. We did not want to have it show, so it is hidden in the ceiling of the lanai accessible through a speaker hole. The range this way is terrible and we may have to just live with it on the ceiling or wall. The 700 outdoor is very directional which is also a bit of a pain. Any suggestions welcome...

I had been on a 3 year hunt for the best LED RGB tape light solution out there to integrate with Control4. Big hold ups have been time to get it installed, picking a solution that will work, and cost. Well, I finally found a winner that I wanted to share with the group: Philips Wiz Connected Lighting: This is NOT Philips Hue. Philips bought Wiz and this is a second line of products. They have bulbs, recessed cans, and tape light. White or RGB with tunable white. Why I think this works: No hub. Uses WiFi Cost is approx. 50% of Hue (example: tape light kit is $44 versus $79, bulb is $13 versus $49) Quality is very good, you'd be hard pressed to see differences in quality of lights (see online reviews - there is one good head to head video on YouTube) Exclusively available at Home Depot Native app if you choose to use it is very good Control4 driver exists - https://drivercentral.io/platforms/control4-drivers/lighting/wiz-led-rgb-wifi-light-driver/ Can be wired in a number of different, easy ways with either existing low voltage wiring or if you have an outlet at the location Control4 integration is great, and easy

I am on L-Series Version 2.6.1. Have had no issues and refuse to update the firmware from here out until someone can confirm that it is still working in later versions. Was pulling my hair out with fans dropping until the 2.6.1 update. Latest update appears to be 2.6.2 updated on Nov 2, 2020. Not going there for now...

Any LED light confirmation I should be looking for? This thing just keeps the blue LED on bottom on. No change, blinking, nothing...

When you do a reset command on the dimmer itself - for example Pressing 15 times up for a Reboot or Factory Reset of 9-4-9 - what should you see the lights on the dimmer do - if anything? Also tried just hitting the air gap manual switch at the top of the ADP dimmer. Turned it back on and the RED light at the top came on for a second and then turned off. Now no lights at all. Thinking this may be one for the junk pile...

ADP Dimmer: Background: Just moved this dimmer. It was previously showing LED light when off and on properly. Don't know if it ever worked (it was new just 2 yrs ago) - After years found out dimmer was not actually connected to any load in the house (thanks electricians) - had no idea what it was for and never touched it. Repurposing to a dimmable fixture in house. Symptom: Now moved (and yes, I know how to wire these things - have done near 50 of em) the blue LED at bottom comes on, but when you hit it on, the upper blue LED does not light. Bottom blue LED remains lit. Have tried 15 presses of top of switch to reset - I don't see anything happen. Have also gone into Composer HE and it shows in RED under Fault Detection: "Over Wattage" - I've tried hitting the Reset just under that in Composer HE to no avail. Is it dead? Help?

Blackwire Designs now seems to be a one-stop shop for LED tape lighting solutions and the drivers and integrations to Control4: https://restechtoday.com/blackwire-american-lighting/ I would think this was posted somewhere on the forum, but if it has been, I missed it. I've researched American Lighting for a long time and had singled them out as a top tier source for the LED tape, extrusions, and drivers / DMX controllers. I have a variety of American Lighting products in my new construction home already. Now that Blackwire is bringing this to the fore with their expertise on integration with Control4, it seems like a no-brainer. If anyone from Blackwire is on here, please contact me as I have several applications where I need LED tape lighting and need some help with selection of the products required. This is one of the final pieces that I never got around to on our smart home that I would like to finish...

Think we will be waiting for version 2 of the hardware for this unfortunately. There is a way to do it with other media, but not video at this time. I agree, it really is not good functionality for those that constantly use a DVR or TiVo.

RAV and 3836 - thanks for the heads up. I figured it may have been the fixtures versus the dimmer. Did not know RAV that you can have someone with Composer (dealer) reset the levels - can this be done in Composer HE? That is an excellent suggestion and would fix the issue.

Have had our C4 Adaptive Dimmers for about 18 months coupled with LED can lights from Nicor (fairly high quality rated indoor / outdoor). Strange behavior - we have programming setup to turn on different strings of lights (anywhere between 4-12 lights both indoor and outdoor) to about 15%. Below that dimming level of 15% we would see at least 1-2 of the lights in the string not illuminate. Thus, 15% seemed to be the sweet spot to get above any of the lights not illuminating and still have a subtle lighting we desired (especially for outdoor soffit areas). Over the last several months we have experienced at least 1-2 lights not illuminating despite not changing anything. If we turn up the ramp to say 20%, all of the lights illuminate and you really cannot tell the difference in brightness from 15%. So I know, the easy answer is just turn everything up to 20%. BUT, my real question is WHY is this happening??? Are the drivers on the lights having issues, or is this some known behavior with C4 Adaptive Phase Dimmers over time? What gives? TIA.

Anyone make a case for Neeo? Something thin that would not wreck the aesthetics but still protect it from the occasional drop / scratch would be nice. Something like the Peel case for iPhone.

So most of the time I use the Amazon Music controls native within Control4. Always has been a little bit of a bummer to have to use your phone/tablet/touchscreen to navigate via text to what you are looking for. Control4 could come a long way by using voice to control it, but alas not yet. I've also always had an Amazon Echo Dot connected in the rack that I could issue a command to via any other household Alexa device to play music on that device. Then by simply turning on LISTEN in the given room(s) and picking the Alexa source I could get music to play and control by voice. But I missed in my study and other locations with a screen-based Echo Show getting to look at the screen of my Echo Show that shows album art and lyrics. Although a perfectly easy and maybe already well-known solution I wanted to share here: 1) Still same Echo Dot connected in the rack to audio matrix 2) Created a speaker group between my Echo Show on my desk and the Echo Dot in the rack called "CONTROL FOUR" 3) Turn on LISTEN in the C4 app and select my Alexa source for the room (or rooms) 4) Issue command to Alexa - play Fleetwood Mac songs on "CONTROL FOUR" group (mute the Echo Show on my desk) 5) Presto - music controlled by voice on my Echo Show, album art showing, lyrics scrolling in perfect sync, and able to quickly say "Alexa pause" and "Alexa play" when I have to take a phone call. Yes, this has somewhat been discussed before with putting an Alexa device in the rack, but not the idea of creating a Group within the Alexa app to control it this way. Hope you enjoy if you have a similar setup. I am loving this.

There has to be something better out there. I am also stuck with Luma cameras. The interface sucks, and now more than ever I am wishing that I had 2-way audio on several of my cameras. Seems crazy that consumer-grade systems all have 2-way audio while professional-grade systems are lucky if you can plug a microphone in after the fact. The pro-grade interfaces are horrific. I notice this more and more as I compare trying to find a recording off of my Ring Elite doorbell versus trying to find something on my Luma. And good luck getting a recording off of Luma via your phone. Perhaps the worst system I have ever encountered. Save it within the app (what?), and then try to forward it only to be told it is in a proprietary format that may not play on other devices (and certainly not directly on your phone) - (what?!)... And more and more I yearn for 2-way audio. My crappy Amazon Cloud Cameras in the garage do this no problem and are great for 2-way audio. Ring is also pretty good (though we are all still dogged by the delays). Meanwhile my 4k cameras are deaf, dumb, and mute.

Yes. I have attempted it. Did not work for me. For those who don't know, Crossover is a Mac OS app that allows Windows programs to be run on Mac without running a virtual OS. In other words, you don't have to purchase Windows and run a full version of Windows either via Bootcamp (where you boot your Mac as a PC) or via virtualization using Parallels or other. It essentially translates the working bits of the program so they should run on Mac OS. Bottom line: I was excited at the prospect of Crossover, but it did not work for me attempting Composer HE 3.2x. Composer HE 3.2 release notes say it should work under Windows 7, but after attempting the install I get an error message that it will not work on Windows 7.

RESPONSE FROM CGI: Thank you for reaching out to me. I’m sorry that you are in this situation. I am aware of it, and have been working on a solution. Unfortunately, there is no resolution as of yet. I wish I had a better answer for you at this time. Please do know that my colleagues and I are taking your feedback seriously. In the meantime, you can use myQ to control your garage door remotely, monitor its status and receive in-garage deliveries from Amazon Key. I appreciate your trust in our products and brand and the fact that you reached out to us. Your feedback is valued by our team. Please feel free to contact us any time. Thank you, Vera Tsekeris Perhaps if more of us reached out and made our voices heard it would speed up the solution. Or maybe this is just marketing talk for "go pound sand." Up to us.

I am happy to do that, but I figured I would get blown-up or exiled from the forums for posting email addresses and someone would somehow take offense, though they are public and easily found. The effort was figuring out from press releases who is responsible for the integrations. I am nearly 100% positive on the Chamberlain people, not as certain on the Control4 since the move to SnapAV. I also copied the President of Chamberlain. I will certainly let everyone know what I hear back. Here is my email to them: ========== Ms. Tsekeris / Mr. Heckman (Chamberlain); Mr. Vaught / Mr. Greenwood (Control4 / SnapAV): I am writing to plea with you and your respective companies to reconsider the integration between MyQ and Control4 home automation systems. As you are all hopefully aware, there was at one time an integration available between MyQ and Control4 available to customers to control and monitor the state of their garage doors through Control4 which has since been removed, crippling customers’ home automation systems. I would urge both of your firms to please reconsider your positions on the matter for the good of your customers. I have personally invested during the construction of a new home in the LiftMaster (Chamberlain brand) MyQ enabled garage door openers (multiple), and in Control4 (which was a significant investment). Your companies have left your customers in the cold in terms of integrating what is largely considered the best garage door opener brand with the best high-end home automation brand. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of customers who are actively lamenting the current lack of integration on user forums such as https://www.c4forums.com. There are active threads of customers removing CGI branded openers to replace with Genie branded openers because Genie has an integration available out of the box. Customers are being forced to cobble together solutions using infrared, soldering controls to garage door opener controls, and other costly and quite frankly ridiculous solutions. Amazingly there are MyQ integrations existing for similar home automation platforms such as Clare Controls (notably distributed by Control4 owner SnapAV), as well as Alarm.com and Vivint. Please bring back the integration between CGI’s MyQ and Control4 - for your customers. I bet this is a problem that could be solved in a week. I appreciate your consideration on behalf of your mutual customers.

Yeah, so I am so over this ridiculous position that these two companies have taken given the investment we have all made. I just emailed the following individuals and asked that on behalf of their customers that they actively reconsider their position on the matter: Kordon Vaughn - Sr. Director of Product Marketing - Control4 / SnapAV Eldon Greenwood - Director of Interoperability - Contro4 / SnapAV Martin Heckmann - Director, Emerging Business - Chamberlain Group Vera Tsekeris, Head of partnerships - Chamberlain Group

So riddle me this - how is it that MyQ is working with crappy Clare Controls Inc.? Clare is distributed by SnapAV who owns Control4. By the way, at least for the time being, the MyQ integration with Clare Controls is free (yes, always subject to change). Even Alarm.com works with it. IFTTT is also a currently free integration. This isn't rocket science. Just takes the right people talking and making it right. Instead of all of us soldering stuff together and spending $$ on relays and such, we should gather our collective voices and get Control4 / MyQ to move on this issue.

Absolutely impressive, yet absolutely ridiculous that any of us have to engineer a solution for a garage door opener brand that is the market leader. Anyone from Control4 / SnapAV on here should be embarrassed and work with MyQ to get this fixed. There is zero reason (yes, I understand, money) that this can't be a simple driver solution as it once was. If MyQ is working with Clare Controls (also a SnapAV brand) why in the earth can't they figure it out for Control4?

I'd like to Chime in here (see what I'm doing there)... WHY RING STILL MAKES SENSE (for some): 1) If you have pervasive use of Amazon Alexa. Example: I have Echo Dots in about every room, Echo Show on my office desk and wife's office desk and on each night stand. 2) When the Ring gets rung, every Echo device in the house chimes instantly (or whatever other sound - currently a halloween organ) and is easy to hear everywhere. (Note, I have speakers throughout the house, but the idea of having to leave my amps on all the time to get a decent response time is unappealing, and my Episode amps seem to give off a fair amount of heat when left on, even if nothing is playing - something I imagine shortens their lifespan - let me know if I am wrong on this). 3) The Echo shows automatically boot to the Ring doorbell view and allow you to answer (unmute your mic) or just look and listen. Response time in my house is pretty good using Ring Elite using POE. I will admit that for some reason longer conversations through the Ring drop on my Echo Show (any fixes for this?), I do not have same issue on iPhone/iPad app. I don't have to get up from my desk to find a C4 Touchscreen or pick up my phone. Very convenient. 4) At any time I can say, "Alexa show the Ring" or "Alexa show the front door camera" and bring up the Ring on my desktop Echo Show. Very convenient. 5) Ring's app and navigation of history and events is pretty darn good. Compared to for example Luma, it is eons ahead. Haven't seen C4 Chime's event views so cannot compare. WHY SOME OF THE CONTROL4 STUFF DOESN'T MATTER (to me) I don't care about having an action button on the screen. I'm not unlocking my front door to let anyone in during a pandemic (or any other time for that matter). Deliveries go to the Garage via Amazon Key automatically. If there is something else that needs to be done, it can be done through the Ring Driver, or manually by flipping over to the C4 app (which is not a huge effort let's be real). I don't care to invest in C4 Touchscreens. I have a LaunchPort mounted iPad Mini that functions very nicely, and while not a dedicated always-on Control4 Interface, that is some of the attraction - I can do other things with it when necessary. WISHES I wish that Control4 would provide Ring (or Ring would allow) integration through the Intercom Anywhere app or in C4 app itself. I wish that Ring would feed into my NVR (a decent reason to prefer the Chime). Had C4 Chime been available when I installed Ring, it would have been a tough call, I certainly see some advantages to the C4 solution, but you cannot discount entirely the Ring either.

Or we could all just push Liftmaster / Chamberlain to bring back a driver that actually works. This is crazy the amount of reverse engineering that is going into making our garage doors work property on Control4. Also insane that Clare controls has a MyQ integration and they are owned by SnapAV who also owns Control4...ugh

Trying to control RGB LED Pool Lights on a schedule ultimately: 1) Using the pool's native app (Jandy iAquaLink) you can control the state of the RGB light. There is a ON/OFF slider in the app. By hitting the ON slider, you are presented with a choice to pick a color. Like other RGB LED pool lights it cycles through the colors to arrive at your chosen color. If you hit the slider to OFF it simply turns off. Using this slider in the app makes you have to re-select your color every time you turn it on. 2) Behavior in the Control4 app (OS3) with the Jandy/iAqualink driver is identical to above. 3) Apart from how it works in the apps, the Jandy RGB LED lights (like other manufacturers) will "remember" their color state. Thus, if you schedule the lights to turn on or off from within the Jandy web interface (within the app, but a slightly different old school web based interface with more options), the lights will turn on immediately to your desired color without cycling through all of the colors to get to your choice - GOOD !! 4) Trying to do the same in Control4 programming results in the color cycling issue every time the lights are scheduled to come on because the Control4 driver does not have anything for simply turning on the power supply to the lights without picking a color - BAD !! I know the answer is just use the pool interface, but I want to have all of my schedules and programming in one place in Control4. Has anyone figured out a workaround to this very 1st world problem?? TIA!

Vote here for QMotion - because I have them. If I had Lutron, I would probably say Lutron...so you see... Anyhow, QMotion wins for being able to cover larger openings (such as the quad sliders you have) and also being able to couple 2 or more shades together driven by a single motor (pros: cost, sync of the shade). QMotion also has hembar control (tug on the shade and you can control it) - nice for when there is no phone, remote, etc around - for your high windows that is probably a non-issue. Keep in mind wiring for QMotion vs. Lutron is completely different (to best of my knowledge). QMotion can be accomplished with just Cat5/6 drops. I have tons of these, and yes, when they all go up or down on schedule you can hear them - but that is 2x per day and hardly drives anyone crazy - never been an issue. One at a time is minimal sound (I can be on the phone in my office and it does not interrupt the conversation). Lutron is said to be least noisy, but I have to imagine you are going to hear any automated shade. I would never put a battery operated shade where I would eventually have to get on a ladder to change batteries. Pricing you mention is ballpark at best, and it always sounds reasonable until you see the final bill. Each of your small windows may be in that range, but the larger openings can get to be easily $2k-$4k or more depending. Those sliders would easily be $3k-$4k. Width, length, and material all affects price.