anon2828

Why does the C4 App running locally on WiFi have an issue in situations like this?

If Genie can have Control4 integration out of the box, why not MyQ? It is ridiculous. Someone at Control4 needs to get their heads straight and fix this mess. I get that there are options to hardwire, or rip out my openers and get Genie (which doesn't support Amazon in-garage deliveries which are gold), but when we decided on Control4, MyQ was supported and we purchased the Liftmaster openers based on that. I don't want to hassle with hard wiring (recognizing the advantages of not relying on cloud based services), I just want it to work. I'd even pay something reasonable per year to have it work.

If MyQ currently works with Claire Controls, IFTTT, Alarm.com, HomeKit, and others, why can't one of the smarter programmers on here make some type of intermediate program that would still allow those of us stuck with MyQ to integrate with Control4?

This is a sad state of affairs for both C4 and Liftmaster. I continue to be befuddled why Liftmaster has MyQ enabled on Claire Controls (also semi-owned by SnapAV/SnapOne) versus it not working at all with Control4. I have emailed the person in charge of integrations with Liftmaster and got the blow-off response we'd all expect. Just such a glaring hole in complete home automation when the largest single opening of your home cannot be monitored through Control4. I'm sending another email now...

I am still failing to see where the "clear are for the light sensor" is located in any of the pictures of the new contemporary lighting. To me the gap at the top and bottom looks exactly the same, there is virtually no gap. So I am befuddled if you are upgrading the keypads themselves to the Contemporary style, but keeping the actual APD or Dimmer Keypad guts of the switch (like doing a color change kit as it has been expressed here) where in the heck you get the switch to read ambient light levels. Also I am getting that it is much better to use C4 faceplates to avoid gaps and such, but would like to see pictures of any installs where next to Decora style switches and keypads from various angles to see if this is a worthwhile upgrade, or if I need to stick with the current style of rounded keys. People purchasing new Contemporary style APDs or Keypad Dimmers still have the same "guts" as the rest of the existing lineup - correct? Any pictures of the faceplates - especially the back (imagine they are two part) would be helpful. Contemplating a large number of upgrades to the Contemporary look in my home and trying to decide if the juice is worth the squeeze...

This is actually a very sad post for me. I've had TiVo as part of the family since the Series 1 (a Sony version) and just about every single series thereafter including our current TiVo Edge and TiVo Mini units throughout the house. I love TiVo, the user interface, the Guide, the Season Pass, the Commercial Skip, the remote, but unfortunately the time has come to say goodbye. We've had our rough times. Cable card issues, required tuning adapters that flunk out the times you are away from home and then miss the big game, failed hard drives, DOA TiVo units, reboots, error messages, the loss of every show recorded when the TiVo fails, and horrible out of home streaming performance. Regardless, my love for TiVo was stronger than these issues over the years and we stuck together. I hoped that TiVo would improve with the times, grow in our relationship and show improvements. The path forward was TiVo in the Cloud, or at minimum redundant drives or even SSDs. But alas, TiVo is TiVo, and the company behind it seems relegated to the annals of tech history and seem disinterested in the traditional consumer DVR market. So, before I am stuck with yet another TiVo doorstop, it is time to move on. To forge a new relationship. It won't be perfect, and I'll often think back and miss my TiVo, but this is for the best. This time, it was you, not me. I've met a new DVR. It's name is YouTube TV (YTTV). It's not a perfect replacement for you TiVo, but all relationships are different. YTTV doesn't have hardware that will fail, it will allow me to record as many shows at once as I'd like, it allows me to have unlimited storage, it has access to 4k programming that cable didn't, it is flexible enough to allow me to rearrange the Guide, and while not as familiar and comforting as you once were TiVo, it is a different and evolving experience that is improved and updated constantly, something that never happened with you consistently TiVo, and I fear that you will never be updated again. So a fond farewell. It could have been so different. I'll miss you. The solution is a AppleTV or Roku or whatever at every TV or in the rack, or if your TV supports it directly. I personally like the experience of YTTV on AppleTV as you get live previews in the guide and some other features that are dependent on the more powerful AppleTV hardware than what can be done natively on the smart TV app or off of a Fire Stick.

Tried it and still no joy. Just to be clear, this "light" is a LED tape light that is using the Philips WIZ driver. The light shows up on all Navigators and when I press the Keypad button, you see the slider on the Navigator instantly respond, so the system is definitely seeing the on and off state of the light. Why is this so hard?! ALSO: What is the preferred method to accomplish this - tying the programming to the light state, or doing the programming on the Keypad button itself? Pros/Cons?

Thanks msgreenf!!

Ahhh. I will try that. Thanks for the tip. Can you "move" programming (copy / paste or something similar) or do you have to do it over

South Africa C4 - thanks for that tip - had never done this type of programming before and the dragging part was not intuitive until you mentioned it. Unfortunately it is STILL not working as intended. Can you see anything wrong with what I am doing? Is there any other way to do it that is better?

I have 2 separate HDMI BaseT extenders coming out of the AVR - one for the TV which is the primary output, the other is for the projector on Zone 2. So far I have not seen any issues with switching or HDMI sync. Biggest question / issue is best practice for 2 rooms vs. 1 and getting the AVR to gracefully turn off once the TV or Projector has been turned off (or if we leave it as 2 separate rooms, when you turn of the Projector Room)...

I can't get the ELSE command to drop in under the last statement to then have "Use the off color for Primary Bed Ceiling on Primary Bed->Keypad 4" Also, just the programming above does not light the LED on the button. ...Slowly pulling eyebrows out...

Can you show me an example in your Composer HE? I am doing this and it is not working: KEYPAD EVENTS > EVENTS FOR > Primary Bed Ceiling > Pressed:

I have many C4 Keypad Dimmers configured with 6 buttons. I want the LED for each button to come on in Blue when ON and be turned off when the light is OFF. This is no problem for any direct load or loads controlled through the Connections tab (when the light load is through a C4 APD and connected to one of the 6 buttons on the keypad). Where I am having a problem is getting the LED behavior to work where I am turning on and off a load that is not otherwise connected to an actual C4 ADP dimmer. Example: I have LED tape lights. They are using the Philips WIZ driver and can be turned on and off (and % adjusted) through the C4 Navigator - they look like any other light load in the house. I've used Programming to make it simple to Toggle the LED tape lights on and off through the press of a button on a Keypad Dimmer button through Programming. Now I simply need the steps to make the LED on the button light up in Blue when the tape light is on and have the button LED off when the tape light is off. I've tried Programming with Conditionals, but I must be missing something. Any help greatly appreciated.

Cyknight - can that be done in Composer HE? lippavisual - where does one get the "theater switch display driver" ?

lippavisual - is that a paid driver or one in the database? Using the driver cause any issues with programming or turning sources on or off? I can see some advantages to having separate rooms (kids not turning on the projector by mistake)... Any input on why the AVR is remaining on? Has to have something to do with both Zones on the AVR being active...

Here is the situation: Have a room called "PLAYROOM" - it has a Samsung TV and several sources including TiVo (don't laugh), AppleTV, and Xbox. Everything goes through a Pioneer Elite AVR located in the rack. We just added a projector and motorized screen to the room. The projector is connected to Zone 2 of the AVR. The dealer insisted that the only way to have the projector properly work and allow the screen to come down when the projector is selected is to create a separate room. So now I have "PLAYROOM" and "PLAYROOM PROJECTOR" as two separate rooms. Besides the issue of creating a false room, I noticed yesterday that even though we turned off the PLAYROOM Room after watching the TV on the SR-260 using the OFF button at top of the remote, the AVR was still powered on. And yes, I believe that the PLAYROOM PROJECTOR room was also OFF. Normally when we turn a room OFF, the AVR goes off completely (power button is not lit, only the "Network" light remains lit in blue). For those not familiar with the Pioneer Elite AVRs, this should be incredibly similar to the more popular Onkyo AVRs as they are essentially the same thing under 2 brands. I think something is fouled up with the programming. Also, is it in fact necessary to have a separate room for the projector?

South Africa C4 - that's what I did. Max switches is 2 in any location, and in most places only 1. Sleek. Still waiting for someone to answer where the heck the ambient light sensor and top bar go with these new Contemporary faceplates that are supposed to be backwards compatible. Every APD and Keypad Dimmer I have has a little bar at the top, and the ambient light sensor at the bottom.

I'll give it a try and report back. I had light scheduling setup through Control4 and then reverted to just doing it native through iAquaLink. Here is why: When it was setup through Control4 to get to my selected light color (using Jandy Watercolor LEDs), it was cycling through all of the colors to get to the selected color. I thought this was both visually unpleasing, and also potentially a drain on the lifespan of the lights (any truth to this?? I am just guessing). Alternatively, previously when setup through iAqualink, after the first time color was selected, the lights would schedule off, and then come on via schedule instantly back to the selected color without cycling. Anyone know why there is a difference?? Also - to make matters more confusing, now it seems that even now using iAquaLink scheduling that the lights are cycling through colors to get to the selected color.

Picture above shows some with the ambient light sensor and some without - still not understanding how they are showing the APD and Dimmer Keypad with their new faceplate that seems not to have any ambient light sensor unless I am missing something or my eyes have gone bad...

So existing keypad dimmers canoe upgraded just with a button change kit? Where is the light dimming control usually found in the bottom bar? Can existing APD dimmers be upgraded as well with the new style?

If you need a lot of lumens, then Epson, but that is not a native 4k projector, it is pixel shifting 1080. Blacks are good on the Epson (UB = ultra black). If you are interested in native 4k, great contrast, deepest blacks - then you cannot beat JVC. SnapAV (SnapOne) is now selling JVC to the channel. If you do a deep dive into this subject you'll find that most projector enthusiasts prefer the JVC over the Sony at the same price point.

Cyknight - excellent explanation, and now I totally understand. Would seem this would be a valid reason to add a Roku as opposed to AppleTV to the mix. That said, while I like the idea of going straight to YTTV, most of the time just getting to ATV is good enough since the kids select Disney, Netflix, or YTTV. It is too bad that the announcement a couple of years back regarding Apple and Control4 working more closely together never bore any fruit, this would be a perfect application, along with actually being able to control HomeKit devices, still waiting on that for my gate...

This may have already been asked, but then I saw something about "mini drivers" which I am still wanting a better explanation of please. QUESTION: Is there any way to create a Control4 Navigator item for an app within AppleTV, for example the app YouTube TV that would launch from the Watch menu on a C4 Navigator or from a C4 Remote? Goal would be to launch an AppleTV app straight from Control4 instead of having to launch AppleTV, and then select the app you want.