Aayush Arya

I'm not familiar with the LED Wizard driver but this can be achieved through programming. Select your alarm system on the left and have the LED indicator on the keypad change colour based on whether it's currently armed or unarmed. Post screenshots if you try it and it doesn't work for you. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

You may want to look into RoomMe for occupancy detection. If you do, let us know how it goes. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

It isn't just that. Even if you wanted to use two different sources from among the ones connected to your matrix amplifier, you'd have to use an EA-3 or above. The EA-1 supports a single stream of audio throughout the system. You can turn zones on and off but you cannot have two of them playing two different streams. The EA-3 supports three streams and the EA-5 supports—you guessed it—five. You won't be able to keep your playlists directly. There's no native iTunes or iPod integration that's up to date or properly supported, so your best bet is to give Control4 direct access to your local music files. You'd have to create all your playlists from scratch though. I would suggest that now's a good time to migrate to something like Pandora, Spotify or Tidal—not merely for the better integration with Control4, but to make your playlists more future proof and platform agnostic. That's a bad idea for many reasons, as described by@msgreenf. To add to the list of reasons, while connecting Echo Dots (or even Echo Links, which have better quality) is a convenient way to get Alexa integration for on-the-fly music playback with Control4, you take a significant hit on quality that way. You'd get much better audio quality and control out of your system when using something like the native Tidal app for Control4. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

It isn't just that. Even if you wanted to use two different sources from among the ones connected to your matrix amplifier, you'd have to use an EA-3 or above. The EA-1 supports a single stream of audio throughout the system. You can turn zones on and off but you cannot have two of them playing two different streams. The EA-3 supports three streams and the EA-5 supports—you guessed it—five. You won't be able to keep your playlists directly. There's no native iTunes or iPod integration that's up to date or properly supported, so your best bet is to give Control4 direct access to your local music files. You'd have to create all your playlists from scratch though. I would suggest that now's a good time to migrate to something like Pandora, Spotify or Tidal—not merely for the better integration with Control4, but to make your playlists more future proof and platform agnostic. That's a bad idea for many reasons, as described by@msgreenf. To add to the list of reasons, while connecting Echo Dots (or even Echo Links, which have better quality) is a convenient way to get Alexa integration for on-the-fly music playback with Control4, you take a significant hit on quality that way. You'd get much better audio quality and control out of your system when using something like the native Tidal app for Control4. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

By the fact that you grouped that particular Echo with all the lights in that room using the Alexa app. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Yes, you will need to do it in two steps: "Alexa, play some background music" and "Alexa, turn on kitchen speakers". Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Exactly. That truly would be the holy grail, but I could easily make do if, after having grouped a bunch of lights and scenes inside a "room" in Alexa's own app, I could have it control just those lights and scenes individually, unless I specifically commanded it to do so for another room. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

This allows you to say "turn on master lights" or "turn off kitchen lights" to turn on all the lights in the master bedroom and off in the kitchen respectively, without having to rely on scenes. In addition, if you tell the Echo that's inside the master bedroom to "turn on the lights", it will turn on all the lights in that room, without having to specify the room, or create a scene with that name. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

I understand that Control4 has no way to do that without Amazon building in support for that, but what surprises me is that Amazon itself hasn't figured this out by now. This should be the default behaviour for Echo devices, that they can control devices in a group without having to identify them by room. One of the biggest problems in voice commands based automation is that of nomenclature, and it seems to be like this would be an easy fix. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Yes, but you can do that right now too. All you have to do is name the lights that way. Man, that's so frustrating! It's such a terrible experience to always have to give long winded commands like "Alexa, set second bedroom bathroom pendant to 60%", or something else along those lines. How do you guys deal with a large house with multiple rooms and bathrooms? Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Thank you so much for posting this on my request. I need to set it up and test it tomorrow. But it seems it's still not going to achieve what I wanted to, which is to just be able to say "Alexa, turn on the pendant" to the Echo in the master bedroom to turn on the pendant light in that room, while there are six other lights named "pendant" in other rooms that remain unaffected. We cannot do that, can we? It's either all lights in a room or nothing? Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

You can do exactly that by following the second step in this guide. The Echo Link will feed better quality audio to your audio system. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

You should eventually try to set it up though, because it will be invaluable in terms of understanding how things are programmed in Control4. It will open up a lot of flexibility for you. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Although I understand that programming may not be everyone's cup of tea, I feel like those indicator LEDs on Control4 keypads are their single most useful feature and they should be properly utilised. Ahh… should not have mentioned it without trying it out. I'll update the post (for the sake of others who might refer to it in future). Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

OK, point taken. It's really not a big deal, the refund. My point of having participated in the discussion was to figure out if it made sense to try to set up the driver now that we'd upgraded to 3.1.1. I wasn't an active member of this forum when I'd purchased the driver and, in the busyness of setting up our showroom, I just could not bother with sending emails seeking support. It's now that I have the time to be more experimental in my approach. So, if you could just give me a short answer on my most important question, I would appreciate it: is it worthwhile to try to set it up with 3.1.1 or should I wait for an update? Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

I'm sorry but setting up Alexa voice commands on a complex project like our showroom's requires way too much effort and time to be done without being fairly certain that it will work in the first place. There are many dealers here and the general opinion in this thread seems to indicate that the driver isn't compatible with the latest version of the Control4 OS—which is fine, because I understand that both Amazon and C4's software are moving targets and it's difficult to nail the integration. I'm not being judgemental here. But I do take issue with your expecting that people won't talk about your driver here, in the open, and that every dealer will personally face every issue before forming an opinion on it, despite the fact that they can easily save themselves a lot of trouble by taking guidance from others who have already gone down that path. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

I agree, and I'm not blaming you for it at all. It was definitely my fault for not seeking support. No, I haven't. We were pretty tied up with setting up the showroom and figured we'd just use the official integration when it didn't work. I should have reached out though. Should I send an email now? We're on 3.1.1. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Hey [mention=134749]chopedogg88[/mention], I didn't realise you were the developer. We purchased the driver for our showroom a couple of months ago, and gave up on it when it didn't work on the first attempt. We ended up never using it. Would you mind issuing us a refund? Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Even for the controller, huh? I guess I'll start doing that too then. We already do it for everything else. Thank you. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Well, there go $150 down the drain then. [emoji20] Edit: I suppose I spoke too soon. I didn't realise that [mention=134749]chopedogg88[/mention] is the developer and available here for support. I'm working with him to try and resolve this. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Yes, it will. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Is this recommended in general? We typically assign static IPs to all the devices on the network except for the C4 controller, so that it remains accessible for configuration even if the network switch it's connected to it is plugged into a different router that's assigning a different set of IP addresses. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

All things said and done, does it make sense to try to use this driver on a new project in place of the default Alexa integration (which itself is fairly poor)? Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

This is a fairly advanced bit of programming. There are quite a few things you need to do to implement it properly. 1. I would suggest that for such a destructive function (i.e. one that has the potential to be very disruptive if triggered accidentally or unknowingly), you program it to be activated on a triple click of your House Off button. 2. If you want the button to do nothing on a single click, ensure that it's not connected to anything in the Connections tab (which you may have done previously). 3. Set the LED behaviour to Push/Release and set an ON LED colour (I prefer white). This will have the effect of turning on the LED whenever you press the button and turning it off when released. I find this visual feedback very important to communicate that you've successfully pressed the button. You can set it to Programmed if you don't want that behaviour. 4. Make a Boolean variable "HOUSE_OFF". As a general best practice, make sure you write something along the lines of "This variable records whether the house is currently in the off or on state." This becomes very important when your programming becomes complicated and you start to forget which variable does what. 5. In the triple click event programming for the button, set it to activate both your lighting scenes, lock the door and turn off audio throughout the house (by turning off each zone individually). 6. What you now need to do is to ensure that your "HOUSE_OFF" variable is only true when all the aforementioned conditions are met, so you need to create a macro that checks whether all four of those conditions are met, and sets the variable value accordingly. Create a macro called "House Off Check" and drag in all the relevant conditions, joined by the 'AND' expression. It will be something along the lines of "IF 'scene 1 is active' AND 'scene 2 is active' AND 'lock is locked' AND 'zone 1 is inactive' (where the zones will all have up be checked for individually)", set "HOUSE_OFF" to true, ELSE set it to false. 7. Now you need to call this macro every time either of your two lighting scenes is activated or deactivated, when the lock is locked or unlocked, and whenever any zone in the house is activated and deactivated. This will ensure that the variable in question is always up to date. 8. That done, you can now add a program to the "HOUSE_OFF" variable's state changed event, like "IF HOUSE_OFF is true, set House Off button's indicator LED to red, ELSE turn it off". 9. To round things off, you should call this macro from your House Off button's Released event as well, so that whenever that button is released after being pressed, it will reset the indicator LED to its correct state. That should take care of it. Let me know if you run into any issues. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

I'm glad you found it helpful. I've yet to use these experience buttons in my own programming, so I cannot be sure. You should definitely test if it's working as intended. That would be the function of the Break command you referred to before, but even then, its use would be within FOR WHILE loops rather than IF conditionals, to allow you to break out of the loop based on certain conditions being met while a separate set of conditions that keep the loop running remain true. I've never had to use the Break command in any of my own programs. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk