PorterTX

+1 on using MyLink with C4 as well. I agree with the others that by itself it can have some frustrations but with my experience using it with my exterior shades and C4 it works. I did have to assign a static IP address for MyLink after an initial hiccup but it has been fine since then. If you do a search on the web you can usually find a much better price for the MyLink unit as well as the Somfy remote. Just have those ready when the install of the blinds is being done.

That is what I was thinking/hoping. I will try troubleshooting the Aavara for now and see what happens but thanks again for your help.

Great thanks again! The Aavara (Blu-ray) is very rarely used but I will try unplugging all it's connections to give it a shot. I did notice something strange in the Fing app but please forgive my ignorance if this can be ignored. When I scanned the network the HC250 IP address shows up (I verified it on the C4 GUI screen under network settings) but in the Fing App under "Network details" it has information about a totally separate AppleTV upstairs for our kids (MAC Vendor - Apple, Operating System - IOS, Brand/Model Info Apple TV 3rd Gen) but also shows NetBIOs Domain as "Control4Home" (I don't know what that means). Then the Fing App identifies the IP address assigned to that Apple TV in the kid's room (verified under Apple's network setting) but now under "Network Details' it shows information about the HC250 (MAC Vendor Control4 but Operating System - Apple TV 8.43 but that's not correct). I am not sure if the simple answer is to ignore all of the Fing app's "Network Details" or if that really is pointing to a problem? Maybe IP addresses were reassigned at one point in the past and old network information is still in app? I think I recall seeing something on the Fing app saying they don't get MAC information anymore. Admittedly I am guessing and at my technological limit for now but I thought it was interesting.

Thanks for the suggestions and insight @Cyknight! Yes unfortunately this happens 100% of the time if I have the TV on for more than about 15 - 20 min. I do have a DLink 5 port Gigabit switch behind the TV as well that feeds the TV, HC250, AppleTV, and an Aavara HDMI over IP receiver (for a shared Sony Blu-ray player). I used the Fing app and identified most everything has its own IP address (having trouble identifying the Aavara). The TV really doesn't really need to be connected anymore since I installed an AppleTV so I might try removing that just in case. HDMI controls are all turned off on the Samsung, ARC input #4 is not being used and HC250 is in a HideIt mount off to the far side so airflow should be ok. I just recently purchased Composer HE so I am still learning my way around. That said, I am not sure how to tell in Composer if there is a connection between the HDMI cable that is actually connected from the HC250 to the TV. This may be what you are asking but I noticed when I click on the HC250 there isn't a properties page shown on the right side (just says "there are no properties for the selected item" which is completely different than when I click on my EA5. Maybe this is nothing or is this because the EA5 is the main controller?

I have an issue with my HC250 behind the TV in my master bedroom that I am hoping somebody might have seen before or can shed some light on. The hardwired HC250 consistently loses its Link connection after about 15-20 minutes of the TV being on (the Link LED light turns off). When I am done watching TV I select room off on my SR250 but must use the Samsung’s TV remote to turn the TV off since it uses IR. However, at some point a few hours later the link is mysteriously restored and it goes back to “normal”. It is of course frustrating as it means any IR capability is gone during that time as the HC250 is unresponsive. Fortunately, the Apple TV that is local behind the TV is using IP control (still on TV0S 12.X) so I can at least control what I am watching and sound goes back to a Control4 Audio Matrix in a rack with speakers in the room so I can also still control volume. I just can’t turn the TV off normally through my SR250 or use the GUI for any period longer than 15 mins or so as I would get stuck when the unit drops off. My dealer initially did a factory reset and it took forever for the until to reestablish the link but eventually it did but the problem is still there. I am not sure if the unit is just dying and I need to live with it until I replace it with an EA1 or if there is something else that I or my dealer may not be thinking of? I am on OS 2.10.6 with an EA5 as my main controller in a rack so this is just impacting the local controller in the bedroom and the only issue that I have with all my equipment. Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

sorry about that, I could see it on the reply thread but I have had other issues when trying to post things here. Let me try this again as an attached png file.

I just recently finally got Composer and was playing around with the settings to make some similar changes. My original dealer set this up and so it has been easy for me to follow along and make small tweaks but I am still not educated enough as of yet to explain "why" some of this was programmed this way as I am sure it could be done other ways. That said, here is what my script looks like if it helps.

I have an Oppo 203 as well and have been wanting to look into doing what you did with my movie collection (especially UHD if possible). What hardware and software combination did you use to rip your movies?

No problem. Yes it looks like you have an EA-3 controller. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

He is wanting to know the specific model of the controller or "brains" of your Control4 system. There should be a Control4 "black box" that is controlling all of your equipment somewhere in the house. Either in a central location like an AV closet or maybe behind your TV. You may have the older model controllers like an HC250, HC800 or a new one like an EA-1, EA-3 etc. He needs to know this in order to determine a solution on how to fix the issue. You can go to Control4's website under their product catalog section to see what they look like.

I purchased this model a couple of months ago on the suggestion of a previous post by @mallom and it has worked great so far. I use it for for my Apple TV 4K to pass through all the latest multi-channel audio formats as well as Dolby Vision to my Marantz receiver. I then use the stereo audio out on that device to connect to my Control4 audio matrix for two channel distribution applications. You are limited on the output if using the stereo out instead of digital as to what formats it will pass through. I was only interested in stereo sound when it came to distributed audio anyway so it worked for me. Adding to what @lippavisual said, If you are connecting it through HDMI to a receiver for multi-channel make sure to slide the audio switch to "pass" because if you have it set to "2ch" it will be liked you experienced in that everything will be 2ch audio. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRT9VGL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This may not be of interest but just in case, I believe you loose audio resolution the more streams you utilize. Somebody correct me if I am wrong but I think the EA-5 gives you full 24/192 but only with 2 analog streams. If you start using a 3rd stream it decreases (24/96?) and then decreases again with a 4th stream (16/44?) but stops there..I think.

Good catch @eggzlot as it looks like you are right about the nonexistent mobile functionality. I was initially thinking the driver looked really cool with a direct web interface but if it lacks a mobile display then I you are only getting half of what you need and would be better off with on of the other mentioned solutions.

I realize this looks to be another unofficial integration but I was curious if anyone has used the Annex4 MyQ driver?

+1 for Amazon (Music HD) for the content, quality and price. For the time being I am also still using (and enjoying) Tidal, Qobuz, and Pandora to name a few. With the Add Music driver/feature Control4 has made it easy to try out various native services that could meet your needs so you can't go wrong.

Thanks Ryan. I will add that Control4 was kind enough to take the request and pass it along to potentially add some type of additional track information to the Amazon driver. This could look exactly how Qobuz does today if using 2.10 in that you can at least see which tracks are offered in Hi-Rez (it is limited information but something for now). We will see if that comes to pass as clearly 3.X is the best route and the pathway to the future.

For the HC800 I believe it is 16 bit 44khz but others please correct me if I am wrong. I did have Control4 reach back out to me after an email and they confirmed that the EA series controller is receiving and processing Amazon's Hi-Rez files even though you cannot see the resolution. This is of course assuming you are using 2.10 as opposed to 3.X which would identify the resolution.

I wanted to share a quick update on my experience using Amazon HD music. After having my dealer update the Amazon driver as well as the other native music drivers (and setting it up to auto update for the future updates - thanks again @msgreenf) I am pretty happy with the results. The only drawback is that it still appears that if you are using OS 2.10 you cannot see any type of HD or UHD "Hi-Rez display or distinction" but my Marantz receiver confirms a 96khz incoming signal from the EA5. Qobuz on OS 2.10 does allow you to visually see to pick and choose the Hi-Rez track. That said, I can only see them using my EA5 or Control4 app. My older IE touchscreens will not show you which tracks are Hi-Rez. As far as sound quality, I was going back and forth from Amazon HD to Qobuz for some A/B comparisons using the same track and I now cannot tell a difference. Before subscribing to the upgraded Amazon HD platform I was actually using Amazon to show off the poor sound quality difference between their MP3 format and Qobuz HiRez. At that time it was really like a night and day difference or at least between the tracks I was comparing. In my opinion, for the sound quality, music selection and price I think Amazon HD is now a real player in the streaming market and could be tough to beat.

Thanks msgreenf I will reach out to my dealer to check it out.

First time post but long time observer. First, thanks msgreenf for posting as I this has been on my radar. I subscribe to Tidal Lossless and I am in the process of trying Qobuz. I am running the latest version of 2.10 (want to upgrade to 3.1 but still have an HC250 & a couple of IE touchscreens for now) and had Amazon Music (Prime) installed about a month ago along with Qobuz. This morning I logged out of Amazon Music through C4 and then logged back in and now at least recognizes the new subscription to Unlimited but there doesn't seem to be anything indicating "HD" track selection. I saw that cdepaola had success with seeing the High Res logos appearing but I am wondering if that is only for 3.0 and higher? That said, when using Qobuz through C4 I can see the Hi-Rez logos to differentiate the tracks but as of now that is missing for Amazon Music HD. Has anyone else experienced if using 2.10 or any suggestions? Additionally, I discovered that for the actual Amazon app itself (ios) I had to delete and reinstall after I updated my subscription in order to get it to display "HD" tracks. Before it similar to what I am seeing through C4 now in that it recognized Unlimited but there were no differentiating Hi-Rez logos. After reinstalling you can easily see "Ultra HD or HD" logos on their app.