Cyknight
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Posts posted by Cyknight
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1 hour ago, tims said:
I think I would rather have direct integration as opposed to a fire stick external in one of the HDMI ports...
Wrong. While using internal services has gotten better and is feasible, external is ALWAYS preferred for reliability.
For FireTV specifically, the actual TVs cannot be controlled IP for it's 'TV' controls as the drivers for the stick (and possibly the API from Amazon) don't have the required controls available.
The one notable exception is RokuTVs.
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If Roku, use Roku driver. If not, no IP driver
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On 11/4/2022 at 11:12 AM, discipulus1 said:
as it gets more complicated, should I create a macro
Yes.
On 11/4/2022 at 11:12 AM, discipulus1 said:Also, do you typically trigger a variable for scenes like this that will update the LED color on each button if one is pressed and the scene is active
Well as a dealer, absolutely not: I would just tie the same lighting scene scene to the same button, or use an experience button with button links etc for the same reason, and set the scene's (or as available the experience button's) LED settings and the system just does the rest.
But if linking isn't an option for whatever reason, get your dealer to load the LED wizard driver to make this a lot easier, and yes put it in macros.
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2 hours ago, Andrew luecke said:
Also, make sure Link Aggregation isn't enabled on those 2 ports too
This would be my first thought. If indeed it works on either port as a single, but not if both are connected.
OR possibly an IP conflict on the ports.
Of course a network card can fail: heck that's the very reason it HAS a failover port to begin with. And yes if it's just a single port failure overall (the thread is a bit confusing on that) and it's in warranty....well get it RMA'd.
But to the question if this is 'seen before': While I'd be surprised if ti was NEVER seen EVER - I can tell you I've not seen it or heard of it failing on a CA-10, and while I vaguely remember that I've had occasions where a controller network card failed, meaning without an obvious cause (basically, lightning strike entering the network) it's been rare, and I would say I can count them on one hand (and while I have all my fingers, I certainly wouldn't need them) - out of many hundreds over years.
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1. could be that the led settings for the unit are set oddly, ie blue for both on and off, or in your playing around you manually set the led behaviour to somthing different than 'follow load' (or if a bound keypad button 'follow connection')
Yes you COULD have a button on a KPD toggle the actual load, and set the LED separately. This behaviour option is settable in HE AFAIK.
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Moving ZigBee to a secondary controller CAN offload some power - but it DOES mean you put the strain to the network AND in case of network failure, you may lose control over lighting etc.
It was never really 'best practise' to split it up IMHO (not sure it was ever C4's specific recommendation either) - but there's nothing against it as such either: depends a lot on setup (and of course in case of CA10 you CANT run coordinator on the main controller)
What IS changed in the new ZigBee versions is multiple ZAPs on ONE coordinator (or server) is not allowed and the general recommendation is to not run ZServer and ZAPCoordinator on two different controllers but to keep those processes on one and the same controller.
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if ea1 works but ea5 does not: are you using the db9 outputs on the 5? If so I'd try using a 3.5mm
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22 hours ago, Alt said:
if you could even find one thats willing
Heh, if client is willing to pay hourly rate for a dealer to send someone to sit there and do it, it'd be silly to not to be willing to do it as a dealer.
But it's likely cheaper to purchase essential devices ...
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On 11/20/2023 at 3:57 PM, TFlury said:
Everyone looking at this from a network issue. Do you listen to music at low volume and do you know if your amps are on auto sense or 12v trigger? I have this issue in my bedroom cause I don't have the time to switch the amp to trigger mode..
Fair: we are assuming only the streaming service mentioned time out, not for example sound from TVs etc.
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3 hours ago, msgreenf said:
Why weren't you on production?
That tickles my memory: it's probably not that it was set to anything "not production", there was something about in a certain version or hotfix having it getting set to 'nothing'.
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Yeah I know of no known bugs, and the instances reported here are the oly ones I've heard of. Something specific to the setup(s) is causing/exposing this: That doesn't mean it ISNT a C4 issue as such, but it does tend to lend itse;f more to some sort of mismatch in network settings. In the end C4 engineers are the only ones that can truly pinpoint the issue IF it's C4 related: they'll need logs and/or access via a dealer.
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Something doesn't add up.
Either you have a matrix already, or a full Sonos setup in fron of existing amp, or the quoted amp won't work.
The triad matrix isn't an amp at all.
While the above saying you'd need a Triad matrx PLUS amp isn't incorrec, my first sugggestion for a direct replacement of a c4 matrix amp 4 zone would be the equivalent Episode version EA-RSP-8D-100
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THAT setting page if for router own use: under the LAN settings, there's the option to use proxy or Static DNS to SEND to DHCP devices
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Going a Video over IP solution may indeed 'fix' any wiring issues you have: what I mean with it being less of a direct replacement is that generally speaking, a video over IP setup introduces more of a delay. That is not anything that can't be dealt with perfectly fine in a new setup by choosing the correct accompanying gear, method etc - but going from 'standard' distribution to a video over IP system often means more of a major overhaul of setup.
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Binary has since moved to the MOIP system which isn't a direct replacement.
Plenty of A/V switches should fit in a 2U setting (you seem to have a slot above available) though.
If a replacement makes sense vs just fixing the one bad TV is another matter: depends a lot on if there's more to gain (ie 4K)
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1 hour ago, BY96 said:
Thank you all for this information. I too have had streaming music dropouts. I just changed my router's DNS to the Google servers as suggested. Looking forward to seeing if the problem goes away.
If you can, you'll want to set your router to do a static DNS/Forward DNS (on the internal network side) instead of DNS proxy. 'setting router DNS to 8.8.8.8' usually means that the router uses the DNS for it's own handling, and means the router handles DNS (you'll know if your computer/phone DNS server is the same as the router address)
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The issue isn't likely Control4 as such (though it's not impossible) but it can just as easily be local networking or ISP (especially IPS DNS server, which is why the first suggestion is to change the DNS on the controller (if not the whole network) to 8.8.8.8 and/or 8.8.4.4 and/or 1.1.1.1 Of course, for many 'Control4 is to blame' usually means EVERYTHING on the other side of the ISP modem/router.
Poor DNS routing is the most common reason for disconnects for anything streaming, and it's relatively easily fixed by doing the above. Of course, your dealer SHOULD know this already and have done it at setup to begin with. And yes your ISP will correctly state your internet connection is fine: it's failing AFTER you connect to the internet
In most cases routers are out of box set to be the DNS proxy on a network (which is a poor choice if you have a decent DNS server address set) because most ISP use their own DNS servers (because, well data tracking) which are usually poor.
If that doesn't resolve it, ipv6 is probably the next low hanging fruit to take out of the equation. Easy enough to stop at the router. Not a likely culprit to be honest, it takes some pretty bad implementation on both the router and the streaming device to be affected, but a quick fix.
Oh and I assume the ISP modem is indeed just a modem or bridged/bridge port, because while often a non-issue, Double NAT can do weird things.
9 hours ago, cdcllc said:Seems like this should be very "testable". I think your first step is to run a music stream on a device completely outside of Control4 for a day or 2 (i.e. a phone, pad, computer, etc.) and see if you get the same buffering issue.
Looks good on paper, but it doesn't actually tell you anything.
If it doesn't work, it could still be the network, the ISP, the DNS or heck the C4 controller could theoretically still be a the root cause of it.
If it DOES work, it still could be the C4 controller, router or router settings, double NAT, DNS and yep, still possibly the ISP connection. Heck if it does work, it could simply be because the device you're using buffers more prior to playing
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They primarily aren't known for their..uh..durability. We actually have a handful of them left in the field from take overs (we replaced the ones we did with 500 series).
BUT they have one advantage: they have a built in matching HDMI output for each CAT out put: I would suggest taking the offending TV, use the HDMI out instead, and put a well-rated new transmitter/receiver set in between and see of that doesn't get rid of the blinking.
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FLA has posted about this in the distant past as well.
The problem is that it'll be hard to find where the issue may be. My first thought as I mentioned to him in a message as well is to take the worst offending room, use some local sources and a local controller or z2io.
From there, if after a weeks worth of good testing the issues disappear, start working backwards.
Use wiring to put control back.
Use wiring to feed a single source using a temp transmitter/receiver setup (if possible of a similar 'type' as the matrix, ie Video over IP or HDBaseT).
And so on.
Dirty power is often a catch all phrase for a lot of 'unclear' issues. True 'dirty power' it likely isn't (unless there's some weird connection issue with the feed to the house, in which case in 10 years a lot of appliances would have been replaced....). Interference is one of the most common ones put under that 'catch-all' and it's not impossible that that is (part of) the issue. That inference could be caused a lot of ways though.
Theoretically (bad) splicing of wires can cause some of the mentioned issues, but realistically -if splicing is doing anything in this setup at all- it's worsening an other underlying issue. If after testing it comes back to wires, it's more likely to be bad quality wires (or really poor runs that run for long stretches along with standard power wires) than spliced wires.
It's hard to pinpoint an actual cause not knowing the system in detail, including having a physical overview of the setup and the wires.
If using a decent transmitter/receiver works as per mentioned test options -especially if the current video switch is not one of the two 'standards' for HDMI over CAT- then the only true fix is likely getting a better video switch. Not that the existing one may be the CAUSE of the issues with video, but current equipment is more capable than that of a decade ago.
Local control issues are probably the cheapest to fix with a z2io
Realistically, this may be one of those problems that needs a pro on-site.
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46 minutes ago, Hasnat said:
as far I know tuya agent is no longer compatible with c4. but client strongly said still its been working in Europe and others area. and someone manipulate them that they can control everything from this mini screen unit. I dont think so. as far i know few 3rd party device can integrate with c4 but cant control all i have. just can be control those whose are directly connected with that brand.
It ISNT compatible, driver was pulled basically by Tuya. Existing setups may still work - I wouldn't know. That's not regional. Even then, there was ever a sanctioned way to use Tuya to CONTROL Control4, only the other way around.
Anything that may once worked or is working is some form of hacked setup, and I'd tell you to walk away from it.
Client may claim it was working, it even may have been: but a hacked, unlicensed, unsupported setup is first and foremost .... unsupported.
control4 switch
in Question & Answer
Posted
The reasonability of that price depends a lot on on what specific dimmer your dealer is putting in, if it includes install and programming etc.
If just product, there's a cheaper option in the Essential line that may save you some.
The question on if you can install a regular dimmer or switch depends on the wiring: can't begin to say how easy or hard it is, let alone if you'd be 'capable' to do it vs needing an electrician.
Of course you'd lose any related control.