Cyknight

5 hours ago, Shoe said:

If you are doing an IQ then you will need to register the panel with a vendor before you can go very far with setting it up. These aren't like old skool dialup systems. The cell service is included in the service.

No you have to ENTER dealer info to finish setup....it doesn't actually have to exist. Just requires a set name and phone number to call,....

Monitoring of IQ panels is done via alarm.com. SOME companies can be picky, most regional ones should be happy to pick you up.

You can also find a local alarm.com installer to just setup alarm.com for self monitoring (maybe you can do that yourself? not sure never really looked into that)

2 minutes ago, drmark12pa said:

I was wondering how these panels are powered.  So I could literally buy 1 panel, mount to the wall, power it, and all of the sensors I would install would be talking to that panel?

Also, how are people powering them in locations that have no preexisting security wiring?  

Yep, assuming it's all wireless sensors.

It comes with it's own powersupply (which you use to power it over existing wire too, don't use your old panel's powersupply) and long wire: you could drop it down a wall (in front of it, or if hollow inside it) above an outlet, or heck get a stand for it and have it desk/cabinet mounted.

1 minute ago, BDavisNJ said:

My initial preference was Clare simply because of the SnapAv brand and ease of C4 integration.  However, Clare has no ability to accommodate hardwired legacy zones and remain UL compliant (4 wire smokes with sounders).  I think SnapAv is making a mistake by not offering a UL approved method of integrating legacy wired zones.  In any event the IQ Pro looks to be a solid, commercial-grade offering with the promise of connectivity.

Wasn't aware the clare version doesn't have ul certification.

IQpro can be a good choice if you have lots of hardwire zones (more than 40) but in most residential cases, iq4 is enough and then some

4 minutes ago, drmark12pa said:

https://www.alarmgrid.com/products/qolsys-iq-panel-4-verizon-powerg-319mhz

Looks like this might be the correct one to purchase if I'm planning on using some of my previous sensors.

Is there anything other than this panel needed for the core working of the system?  I'm used to the GE Concord with the big metal box and the keypads just connected to it.

yup assuming verizon has coverage (and you care for back up for monitoring)

Qolsys panels are pure wireless panels (as is the clareone), so if you're looking to use existing wired sensors you'll want a hardwire translator. https://www.alarmgrid.com/products/dsc-pg9wlshw8

 you can add expander modules if needed for more zones.

If you want to mount the panel where your current keypad is, you can use the existing wire to send power up. If you have more than one keypad location now and want to keep it, you can use powerg units from DSC or the fancier IQremote panels.

If mu

To be clear, IQ4 panels ALWAYS have PowerG (DSC's more current frequency) and you CHOOSE which secondary daughter card is included, ie 319 for GE/Qolsys, 433 for legacy DSC and Clare), 345 for Honeywell/2GIG

11 minutes ago, drmark12pa said:

That's one thing I was wondering about was utilizing some of my old GE sensors from my Concord4 system and if those would still be usable with either Qolsys or Clare.

For sure with the Qolsys, provided you get the one with the right frequency daughter card (319 for GE and Qolsys' own brand)

Clare I believe has a take-over module for them, but it's a separate item

15 minutes ago, drmark12pa said:

Is there a specific IQ panel to buy to get the system started to add some basic door sensors?  Also, any recommendation on where to buy?

I'd go with IQ4: choose DSC old style, GE/Qolsys, Honeywell version as you like/need: PowerG is always built in. It's that ability, and having it built in, that makes the IQ panels a first choice in takeover/replacement case.

IQHub is PowerG only.

IQPro is great, but only logical if you have a large/commercial setup.

As to where to buy: well we get them from whole sale suppliers/distributor: large distributors such as Anixter and ADI (global) will carry them if you have an in, but both are fairly readily available in online sales from amazon to alarm DIY specialty stores such as alarmgrid and others.

1 minute ago, drmark12pa said:

One last question, what is the price comparison between the basic hardware to start a system between Clare or IQ?

I honestly don't know for sure, but I suspect a Qolsys IQ4 panel to be 10-20% cheaper than a ClareOne, and qolsys has a wide (near infinity) wireless security device compatibility built in.

ClareOne is more capable as a STANDALONE unit mind you: but most of that added functionality is completely lost within a Control4 environment.

1 minute ago, drmark12pa said:

It seems weird that the company (SNAPAV)  C4 is under would integrate better.... I know my dealer said they use Clare is it takes 5 minutes to set up?

I didn't say integration was easier or better, I mean setting up the actual panel (which means less time, which means less cost to client).

That not saying anything against Clare: Qolsys' ease of setup is just that well done.

Adding qolsys prob takes 6 minutes, 4 of which are the reboots required to turn on 6 digit user codes and 3rd party integration.

We've done Clare: IQ panels are easier to do and integrate so easily....

45 minutes ago, timelinex said:

I don't have Starlink. I do have a WISP service, which isn't officially satellite but it uses a satellite to get internet from a tower a mile away. So it's similar in that manner (uses satilites in some part of the chain).

 

Is this something I should look into for me as well or is the issue you are mentioning just Starlink specific.

That one is starlink specific.

What's you ISP? Starlink by chance?

If so try adding a static route destination 192.168.100.1 mask 255.255.255.0 gateway 0.0.0.0 to your WAN interface

To add to the confusion:

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/snap-on/id1334291932

perforated was ALWAYS a designer choice, never an a/v quality choice.

woven is better. somewhat

Having nice speakers, even if in/on wall that aren't behind a screen is proper.

Stop trying to hide speakers, make them look good instead

Just now, Shoe said:

I think its actually per deployed controller. Do if you have an existing account, but you deploy a new controller you require Connect.

That is not how it's worded, but again, it's at best vague at this point.

The circled piece is a pretty standard optical modem/router. By the look of it, it may be used as a modem ONLY (looks like it has one ethernet out and a phone out) but those units CAN be used as routers as well (but they'll be an access point attached somehere).

Can't really tell you anything about the rest I'm afraid.

1 hour ago, Time2Jet said:

So hey fellow dealers… I guess the clients we used to get a kick out of for calling it Connect4 were right all along.

LOL

21 minutes ago, ekohn00 said:

Can you define "new systems"? Does that mean something like a core 6 is coming out, or if I add a core 5 to my existing or just for new customers?

New systems would be newly created user accounts at this point.

I know of no new controllers coming at this point, but your question does raise an interesting point if new controllers (whether they are on the horizon or come out in a few years) DO come out, it's not unfeasible that old accounts will end up being required to go to the new system.

Of course this is REALLY getting ahead of things as right now we're still talking about a roll-out that is a) still coming and not clearly defined on all levels) and b) is US only, which while it is the largest individual user base (i assume) isn't a world wide rollout as of yet (and unless it becomes world wide, they cannot require 'connect' on new controllers to begin with)

Heya Steve?

17 hours ago, Andrew luecke said:

I think Wifi7 is a bit different to Wifi 6 though. Wifi 6 didn't really have many advantages except for high density and speed (at least from my understanding).

Wifi 7 however introduces low latency of less than 5ms, and the tests I've seen seem to confirm low latency (120hz is 8.3ms between frames).

Wifi 6 also only introduced up to 9.6Gbps. Wifi 7 is up to 46gbps, so it might open up new AV applications (Raw Ultra HDMI is 42.6gbps for data). I think because of the advantages, we might see things a bit quicker (in new applications)

That being said, at least for unifi7, they don't implement most of the useful wifi7 features yet

Oh I'm certainly not saying Wifi 7 isn't an improvement in principal (though I should note that mobile wifi7 is maxed at 1/10th of the speed potential, mobile wifi6 was 1/4 of wifi6 potential - also less than what was possible, but the increase for the mobile chip is 'only double, not 4 times the speed).

I'm saying there's little reason to jump into wifi7 right now  if there's no other reason to upgrade anyway. You'll get little (honestly nothing) out of it.

I'd even argue that, wifi 6 now vs wifi 7 now cost wise is a spectacular increase: I know Bill has a large setup, but unless he equals a mid-size corporation in setup, it'll be cheaper to upgrade to wifi6 NOW, and wifi7 once the majority of devices in use can at least take advantage of it.

IF you're upgrading anyway, yes you COULD consider wifi7 vs Wifi6....I personally wouldn't recommend it, as you'd have zero advantage now (barring highly specialized or at least specific setups) and not likely to have any for some time to come.

Ooops sorry, yes device variable

9 hours ago, TexasBill said:

WIFI7 is coming out soon an I am going to want to update my house to a newer and faster system.

Don't upgrade to Wifi 7 for the sake of Wifi 7. The world is yet to catch up to wifi6, let alone 6e. Unless you're running pre wave two wifi 5(AC), wait until at least all devices can run wifi 6.

You wont find WPA3 smart lighting for some time yet. some time I suspect will be many year.

string variable x2 - must have two TVs in two different rooms

WHEN button is pressed
SET string variable a to Room 1 current selected device
SET string variable b to Room 2 current selected device
delay 250ms
SET Room 1 current selected device to the value of string variable b
SET room 2 current selected device to the value of string variable a

Uhm. just use a standard stereo 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable. If needed change the serial output on the port of the controller to null.

8 hours ago, GregCAMS said:

and spent $1,943 for onsite on hand items that this service would cover

Sure, but it sounds like you troubleshoot a lot of your own little glitches.

Understand I'm in no way saying it's cheap - far from it. But it's also 24/7 service. Middle of the night on Christmas Eve? Call the support line/press the button in the app. Plenty of people will pay that for the piece of mind alone. I doubt many dealers can offer that sort of service level in-house.

To be clear, I'm uncertain about this direction myself, but I'm also not opposed to the genreal idea as such: though as already mentioned in this thread, there's a lot of things vague/unclear as of yet - and I agree that theat is likely intentional as they figure this out.

Unlike stated in another post, I DON'T think 'everyone else' is going in this direction: I think Snap is leaping to the forefront on this. Whether it's a green meadow they're landing on or a spike pit is another matter