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Posts posted by Cyknight
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Check your DNS settings, and ensure your router is set to use static 8.8.8.8 and 1.1.1.1 - for itself but more so on the LAN side.
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28 minutes ago, CyberWiz said:
A few weeks ago it was noticed that after 10 to 30 minutes the music in a room (or multi-room) would stop; the only way we could get it to play again was to "turn off" the room, then select Music, station and channel again when it burst straight back to life for another short period?!
As Mitch above mentioned, this likely is due to a known change/glitch in C4/Spotify update. Likely as he said update the Spotify driver and the system software. Nothing major if you're already on 3.x.
Reach out to Mitch above with a PM and he can get you sorted in shot order
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I personally have it at 5 - but I don't power off the boxes to begin with
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3 hours ago, Jobu604 said:
Yeah, will likely go this route as a search of the forums indicates that similar issues seem to have been resolved by taking this approach. I was just wondering if there may be a quicker/simpler fix on my side prior to getting my dealer to do this.
But there is!
Note that if feasible, use the IP driver (yes shaw boxes work fine behind a 'regular' router, yes shaw will tell you it won't, because they won't support it) It's super stable.
THAT SAID I just updated my shaw bluecurve driver to fix this issue, as well as an odd one where recall worked on 90% of the boxes but the occasional one just wouldn't react.
Yes it's an icon driver.
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The IP driver doesn't have the DVR/PVR command (I think I've been told it's not implemented in the API at all) - It's been so long I'm not even sure the original device remote has it? This has nothing to do with the Halo remote, the SR series don't have the function either.
At any rate, pressing menu should bring up an onscreen menu that allows you to go to recordings.
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Roku = better integration and full C4 to Roku partnership
Shield = better (ish, it's 5 years old) and a little more versatile overall.
I LOVE the shield as such....but it's been dead quiet on the shield for 5 years..... and it IS 5years old. Plenty of debate if a new one is coming, nothing is certain....
I personally wouldn't fork out the cost for a shield at this point to be honest - get a roku at 1/3 the price and reconsider once (if) a new shield comes out
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I have also seen electric shock disabling keypads. Especially if you have a centralized system with keypads wired to a central controller, it's not crazy that a hefty or repeat shock could not only disable a keypad, but also a controller or powersupply. Not very likely to cause permanent damage, but can certainly put a device in a frozen state.
OP, it may be worth rebooting your lighting panel completely using breakers to see if the system comes back alive across the house.
But yes, root cause being static electricity is not far fetched.
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I've only used the C4 official driver - not had an issue at all in recent years. MY guess is that if it's not turning on, there's an MAC mismatch, a setting on the TV that is preventing wake on lan or a setting in you network preventing the WoL broadcast.
And yes, both wired and wireless.
- Kaas Mayer and Reednatron
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I'd simply create a second driver using the same close but the midway open, and treat it as a separate 'door' to trigger for different purposes.
I do very much agree that a controlled fan is a better idea though.
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Well, I would say don't mix SSIDs on differente wifi gens (which is not quote the same as the same gen AP by the way) - you COULD get a different AP in an out building on a completely different SSID and it should be no problem at all (similarly I have an AP set to a different SSID completely for in-laws to use when they're visiting with their trailer - where they put it is a dead spot for wifi (and no don't care to have it there any other time), and I wasn't investing in a matching AP, so used one of my old ones on a 2.4 only SSID)
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7 hours ago, BY96 said:
I never realized mixing brands was such a controversial issue, though I can appreciate how it complicates things.
It's less mixing brands, more mixing management environments - unifi and araknis offer management options of some form, allowing checking router status vs switch status vs ap status vs powerbar status vs device status - tying to use TWO of those systems is where it gets a little odd.
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7 hours ago, BY96 said:
Per Unifi, a steady blue light is normal operating mode and the AP is broadcasting Wi-Fi
Which could mean the AP is using meshing not it's network cable.
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18 hours ago, BY96 said:
he is the one that recommended an Araknis router and switch with Unifi APs. I only "mixed and matched" as that was his advice and he has never led me astray before
First for everything? I would sooner suggest the other way around (araknis router and switch? then use araknis APs) but to each their own. You're mixing two management systems here, and that is never ideal (the whole point of a management system is to make it easy to manage in one place).
4 hours ago, Control4Savant said:Because a lot of us pros don’t like those APs…
And the same can be said for unifi APs and switches and routers. There is no right or wrong answer, except perhaps that mixing two network management services isn't ideal.
21 hours ago, BY96 said:the APs actually are never losing power (as shown by the blue light that is still on). I also don't think the problem is the POE switch, as again, it shows it is supplying power even when an AP is disconnected
Just to point out: power is transferred on different pair than the MAIN network connection. Gig uses all pair, but it it still depends on the 'main' two pairs (green/orange) are up. It won't default to the 'extra' pairs if the 'main' data connection is down. PoE powering a device does not equal a good cable/termination for that reason.
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Honestly the real fix at this time is to ensure the announcement audio file is louder so change in volume is at least limited in most cases.
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What a useful addition after a year
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13 hours ago, Unsocialtoaster said:
Not sure a thermostat will have very good sound quality compared to an Arc soundbar...
Of course, I could probably make an argument....
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Tis is where it belonged....
... Two obvious options.
-Integrate the Tekmar (pricey to do) with the Tekmar driver and the gateway
-Use a C4 v2 thermostat running on battery. Yes that floor sensor uses the same resistance as a c4 external sensor. May need a bit of tweaking in the temp offset but otherwise should work just fine.
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13 hours ago, Unsocialtoaster said:
Not sure a thermostat will have very good sound quality compared to an Arc soundbar...
HAH, that posted rather weirdly now didn't it
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On 3/4/2024 at 7:22 AM, msgreenf said:
What are people using for wallpapers for kitchens?
The same as for all my other rooms (an artwork from digital blasphemy)
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42 minutes ago, msgreenf said:
Correct. But the driver for them also doesn't let you pick colors
Sort of correct - what the driver DOES allow you to do is to select colors for the top/bottom/toggle BUT those only work for attached keypads etc. - which is what I'm guessing OP means when he says he's changing settings but it doesn't 'do' anything.
Indeed, you cannot change the color of the LED on the bottom of essential devices, only the intensity or reveerse it's indicator function, or ave it off, or programmed, but not what colour it is).
I suppose I misspoke when I said you can do it on ANY C4 lighting, wasn't thinking of the essential line.
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On 3/12/2024 at 5:51 AM, msgreenf said:
IMHO your over thinking this
RAV sure is
On 3/12/2024 at 5:50 AM, RAV said:Zzz
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2 hours ago, fdastoor said:
Is there a way to change color of blue light at bottom of control4 switches.
Can they also be changed according to state of switch.
I tried to change it in default properties of project but that does not work.
project properties only apply to items added AFTER they are set.
But yes you can go to each light and set the colour as desired (on any c4 light, many 3rd party lights is using keypads, but not all)
Note, you can do one, then press apply to to pus it to any others you want as well)
Control4 Announces Core Light - Halo Touch Bundle
in Control4 Hardware
Posted
Note, OSD is 1080p only, not 4K
And no Audio out (beyond HDMI)
But yes it would be an easy replacement for local controllers for a few devices and do OSD.
Note that as of my last check at least, Core Light is ONLY sold WITH a remote (SR 260, Neeo or Halo Tactile/Touch)
The lower computing power is a non-issue if it's not running a system, still plenty to do OSD, IR/serial and be a ZigBee server in a larger system.