penn65000

2 hours ago, BXTR said:

I can’t speak to Lutron as we don’t work with it, just with C4 lighting. It’s fairly rare, over the course of a decade we’ve noticed it seems to only happen on sites that have generators, new, old, big, small, it doesn’t mater

Thank you. 

36 minutes ago, BXTR said:

It isn’t. I’ve seen this happen at many sites

With Lutron too? We have another home with same gen but newer C4 multibutton wireless and this doesn’t happen. 

41 minutes ago, SpencerT said:

I'm assuming that means generac gen (?)

Unless you have an inverter on it (or after it), I assure you the power is not "clean". 

Generac guardian 20kw whole home. Clean power. When it is running is seems cleaner than coned wrt drop outs. 

4 hours ago, BXTR said:

Try a 15 tap on top button to reset

Its likely dirty power from the backup generator causing the issue 

Backup gen is clean. Modern Generac gen and no other electronics are impacted. 

Have the attached issue with all multibutton keypads (6 of them) after power goes out then comes back. This didn’t happen 6-7 years ago after install. Anyone have solution? No issues w other electronics in house and we have whole home surge protector and generator. 

9 hours ago, DLite said:

If you use the HSIM module instead of 4232 CBM to integrate your Vista panel, you can use both TotalConnect and Control4.  This is what we do with our Vista 250bpt, for exactly this reason. While there were some bugs in the HSIM driver a few years ago, it has been working flawlessly for us (knock wood) for the last couple of years.

 

That’s very helpful info. Thank you. 

On 9/18/2023 at 11:57 AM, Dueport said:

There are some old threads that indicate problems using the Honeywell VISTA 128BPT with C4 through the 4232CBM (delayed zone responsiveness, etc) - is anyone aware of these problems having been solved or are there still compatibility issues?

We deactivated it because C4 can’t co-exist with Honeywell app. They don’t tell you this prior. Also the c4 driver wasn’t adequate — couldn’t use many of the 128bpt features. I cut C4 a break on this. Alarm control panels are 1970s technology. But DMP is far worse than Honeywell…

Dealer would know but in my experience 1-2 weeks. I’d get a couple extra as those loops are weakpoint. 

Just now, Evjon said:

My problem is that a pin on one side of the rocker broke.  I just need the rocker that you touch to turn on / dim the light.

Okay that is a broken loop right? You need to have the dealer send. Like $5

There’s a black frame that has plastic pins which attached to the rocker switch. It is that black frame. I think they’re all black (hidden by switch) 

6 minutes ago, Evjon said:

I too have had a tab on one side of a rocker break off.  How do I get a replacement?

For the rocker pin on the black frame ask dealer to order 5 pack from c4 so you have extras on hand. We’ve had 2-3 break out of about 100. We’ve had more (prob 6-8) plastic loops break on the switches. If I had to do again I might do Lutron. 

Have used for a few days in two houses. So far

build quality v good

touchscreen perfectly responsive 

connectivity consistent. Big improvement over Neeo

button layout takes getting used to but just because it is new design. Buttons seem placed well

Battery drained quickly in first house (ruckus) but not as quickly in second house (ubiquiti). I let firmware update before taking out of docking station. But perhaps there is more downloading to do when first set up? If not, then battery life would  issue in first house but in second home seems adequate. Again not sure if due to initial downloads or due to radios. 
 

That said I still prefer the 260s for now but haven’t yet tried Halo Touch w voice control. 

1 hour ago, PumpUpVolume said:

Precisely. Deploying a NEEO (or any other handheld remote) should be like installing the C4 app on the iPhone. It should work reliably upon deployment without having to use WireShark to perform packet tracing, modify the processor programming, fiddle with obscure network settings, and/or replace network infrastructure - choosing from a short and select list of high end but less common network hardware. We are discussing a handheld TV remote, not a lunar landing module controller.

Correct

1 hour ago, Control4Savant said:

The stance that you should have to “redesign” your network for a tv handheld to work is ridiculous. 

Correct. 

3 hours ago, RyanE said:

I think Control4 trusts it's dealers with when to spec specific hardware.

Giving some kind of 'color' to it doesn't necessarily help, being every client and every dealer have different expectations of what works 'best', and every system is fairly unique.

Networking X # Touchscreens X 3rd party drivers X Lighting X Streaming Audio X  Remote Access X etc...

Change one requirement, the controller *may* merit an upgrade.

RyanE

I get it. But there has to be some way to offer some scenario based perf comparisons. That said I DID pick the C10 without much thought…

44 minutes ago, cnicholson said:

General navigation on T4s seems faster, like switching to "listen" page all the sources populate faster-- and I assumed all this stuff would be cached on the T4.  Switching rooms much faster.   And media stuff seems faster too, like time from selection to music starting and adding/removing zones from session.  Again, stuff that I did not expect to be faster is still faster.   

I'm sure that, in a week, it will just feel "normal," but at the moment it feels like I just replaced a three year old iPhone with the fresh model.  Not an argument that everyone should run out and get one, but definitely noticeable.

We have CA10s in two houses. The controllers are zippy but C4 should really offer speed comparisons. For example our dealer is v good and high volume but the most they can said is “you should use CA10 in a big house or big project.”  I get the logic but very very surprised C4 doesn’t offer more meat to the argument (CA10 vs EA5 or now Core5). Don’t care if processors/architecture are different — we deserve more color and I think it would benefit c4 to provide it. 

On 7/4/2023 at 4:03 PM, cnicholson said:

Main annoyance right now is that my AppleTV controls are very flaky.  Constantly getting "Control 4 Connected" / "Disconnected."   Takes a while to start working (if it ever works) and sometimes it double or triple "works"-- meaning each click on aT4 or iOS app yields 2,3 or 4 cursor movements in AppleTV interface, rendering it totally unusable.  Using native iOS Apple TV control widget (or native Apple silver remotes) always works perfectly.    I have ~20 TVs, each with an AppleTV, but Control4 support has not indicated any known issues from "too many Apple TVs" so not sure if a factor or not.

Relatedly (maybe?) I want to get a bunch of Halo remotes, so got two to test and they have *never* worked reliably for voice control, and they share the same problem for Apple TV button controls (generally flakiness and multi-click).  Also I'm seeing a lot of network disconnects.  The Halo stuff might possibly be WiFi related (Unifi), so I don't want to 100% blame Control4 yet.

I'm also having problems controlling Modern Forms (WAC) fans.  There is a new driver, but trying to update drivers bricks the Core5 (will not reboot, need to do the factory reset procedure and roll back to backup project).   

Another issue is that the system sometimes has a 5-10 second delay responding to the first click of the day (lights are lutron panelized homework, using mostly C4 wall keypads via bridge gizmo--Lutron keypads were backordered for 6-9 months when we needed them).    Maybe CA10 will help with this.  IDK.

We had that issue w appletv and native ip driver. Started and got worse over probably a year. No idea why and it went away completely. I wish I had answer but we’re on latest os now and perhaps that will help or uninstall and reinstall driver. Another thing we did during they time was we found that the appletv had static ip after it stopped connecting. I removed all static ips on Apple TVs and all worked perfectly after. Just don’t recall if the remote issues went away then but giving you a possibility. I know removing static ip is the opposite of what dealers would tell you but they should work without static….Re CA10 we’ve two houses w them and they’re very zippy/snappy. That said we don’t have Core5s but don’t intend to given issues we’ve had w Core1 bugs (even post OS3.3.3 upgrade). 

2 minutes ago, msgreenf said:

Just looked at my notes and I do indeed have you confused with someone else. I apologize. 

No prob

1 minute ago, msgreenf said:

I also don't speak for c4. But you told me when your network went down nothing worked. To mean that means your Network is done. Maybe I read the word Ms "nothing worked" too literally 

??? My network never went down. No idea what you’re taking about. 

2 minutes ago, msgreenf said:

Dude I owe you nothing. You sent me in circles. Wasted my time and never followed up. There may be a disconnect in communication which is something I can't work with. We talked on the phone, texted and you went silent... 

talking on the phone? You’ve got to be kidding. We’ve never spoken. You’re either thinking of someone else or certifiable. 

On 6/7/2023 at 4:49 PM, msgreenf said:

I literally have posts where you say your network's down and you can't get to the internet. That's not a control for issue

Still waiting on you to present proof of this statement (that you made up). Where are those posts? As C4 refunds all my neeos….

5 hours ago, South Africa C4 user said:

+1 for CardAccess

Like ‘em but they stopped making them according to our dealer. 

36 minutes ago, Cyknight said:

Mine's been under the soffit outside for nearly a decade now I think. No silicone. Works fine (and it gets cold here)

Axxcess? If so maybe I’ll use those. 

28 minutes ago, Andrew luecke said:

What I mean is a normal non automated sensor which is 240v/120v (it could also be 12v I'm guessing too, as Shelly fairly sure does have devices with low voltage inputs. Not sure about Brands in US though

Ty. If anyone knows brand names in US pls let me know. 

On 6/12/2023 at 2:22 AM, Anks329 said:

Is the connection with the Shelly sensors stable? Or is it worth upgrading to the Axxess sensors that connect via zigbee instead of Wi-Fi?

I looked at Axxess and even emailed them and was told they’re not for outdoors. I’d be interested in outdoor wireless too as C4 stopped making theirs (card access)