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HomeAutomationNerd

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Everything posted by HomeAutomationNerd

  1. ... and if I his the "#" signon the NEEO, the C4 system puts a message in the top right, so clearly the HDMI link is good. (Note: "Mouse Mode Enabled" message)
  2. I've got a weird issue where the OSD for a room is only showing a tiny bit of the screen. The OSD works, in that as I select things using the NEEO, the right behaviors happen - it's only the visual display that's messed up. Initially, I saw this on an EA-3, so I swapped over to a new EA-1 and am seeing the same thing. If I boot the Control4 device, I see the "Control4" logo (correctly) across the entire screen while it's booting. OSDs in other rooms are working correctly. The TV in question is a 4k LG LED screen that's working great for everything else, including other HDMI devices. I've tried multiple HDMI cables, and different HDMI inputs, and every HDMI setting on the TV that I can find. Has anyone seen anything like this?
  3. At the risk to repeating what others have said, I've got 11 cameras, and bringing them up on a T3 takes ~1 second. These are all 1080p ONVIF camera's (Lilin, mostly) hardwired on the LAN. Hardware is T3's with an EA5 acting as a controller. Networking is gigabit ethernet everywhere.
  4. How can I have 4 speakers (2x stereo pairs), all slaved together? Each stereo pair is on the same Amplifier (the older Control4 4-channel amp+matrix). As a user, I would like to select "Outdoors | Listen | <Music>" and have all the outdoor speakers play together. Same music, same volume. I can do this with Sharebridge, by having a room for each zone ("outdoor1" "outdoor2") and then using that to span, but it means giving up all C4 audio.
  5. The best (only?) Apple Music integration with C4 is via Sharebridge. You can create Airplay Endpoints that show up on your network ("Kitchen", "Main Floor", "Whole House") and then using an iDevice can play to those via airplay. This solution works well for my kids and guests, as anyone with an iPhone or iPad can quickly play music to your endpoint.
  6. Thanks - that's a great link. I've spent the last hour reading it. This looks like yet another fun rabbit hole to fall into...
  7. These would be stapled (or clipped) to the runs along my house. The old-school lights we've got there have held up well for ~3 years, but as I'm replacing them anyway seems like an opportunity to explore other options.
  8. I'm interested in either, although if all things were equal the chasing led strips seems like a great way to waste some time. Got links to brands you recommend?
  9. Did you ever get any headway here? I've got a T3 Desktop that seems to be dead, and I'm playing. I can't get this to do anything. I would love to see what you did...
  10. I'm looking to replace old X-Mas lighting with modern outdoor programmable color-chaning LED lights. This would be ~200 linear feet (perhaps as much as 300). Ideally, the lights are left up year-round, so they're fairly weather proof. Quality is more important than up-front price, as replacement costs are high, due to rooflines and the like. Control4 integration is optional, and a lighting controller for them is fine although a software app is preferred. The outdoor plugs are already integrated into C4, so at least I can do timers. The Outdoor Philips Hue Rope lights look nice, except they are only 16' (5m) and cannot be chained together.
  11. I've got a Tabletop T3 that was working great but has not stopped working. The device exhibits the following: Sits at the C4 Boot Screen forever. I've tried: Reset (Pin hole on top). This causes the device to power cycle, but it just comes back to the C4 boot screen. Factory Reset (On Dock / Volume Up / Pin Hole) gets me to the "Erasing" cycle, but the device then reboots and ends up at the C4 boot screen. My network doesn't see the device (Wifi or Ethernet), as it seems to not get that far. The device is out of warranty . Do I have any options other than "Toss it in the bin"? Given this is a $1k device, I would really prefer NOT to do that.
  12. Any follow up to this? I've got 2 T3 screens (desktop versions) that are stuck at the C4 logo, and won't go further. A factory reset goes through the "Erasing..." sequence, then they're just stuck again.
  13. That's practical for many things, especially indoors. I've got a 10" T3 next to my front door, and having a color wheel on that to control the many Hue Outdoor lights is really my primary scenario.
  14. There seem to be a number of Color Wheel drivers. What's everyone's favorite? My targets (in order) are: Run on the T3s <-- Most important Run on a NEEO Run on iDevices via the Control4 app.
  15. How do the Kasa's work? They don't look like wall outlets, so they seem the same (but cheaper) as the C4 ones. Do they control directly via Zigbee, or do you need a Kasa hub (or whatever) similar to Hue? I keep hoping to see some actual wall outlets that join to the C4 network. Seems like a huge miss to not have those.
  16. At least for Audio, I end up with a 1. “Great room” 2. “Great Room Audio” I don’t think this needs to be exposed, but that how I get the paths to flow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Well, that's not good. I've had a DS2 on my list for a while - sounds like I should rethink that plan.
  18. That's a really high bar. I've bought a Zune. Is it that bad?
  19. I believe the two would be very similar, with the HC800 probably having better DACs. Either way, I don't believe you can specify which stream is used when - I think C4 figures that out. Amusingly, I also went down this route. I ended getting an EA5 instead. The DACs and Amps on the EA5 are quite good, and for processing thigs like Tidal MQA streams seemed the best overall choice. If you're "desperate" for 1 more stream, you can also use the HDMI output on the EA3 for an output stream. Just buy a $20 HDMI audio extractor of Amazon, and then you're good to go.
  20. I’m trying to talk myself into the NEO. Your not helping. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Thanks - I've tried that but hit some issues. It's hard to predict which windows will be open on the 2nd story. Valid choices are mine, the kids, the bathrooms, etc. *Ideally* I would say, "Arm, using the current state of everything". In the absence of that I would have "Arm, allow all of upstairs" and 2 or 3 other common configs. I can do this using custom buttons, but it's still awfully fragile.
  22. Not quite Control4, but today I cleaned out and organized my networking closet. When last the electrician was at my house, he turned off a breaker and all my networking gear shutdown, despite it being on a UPS. Turns out the Xfinity Powered Coax Distribution grid had been hard-wired into the wall, and wasn't on the UPS - so when it lost power, there was no Internet. My primary networking closet: APC UPS C4 CA1 DSC IT-100 Unifi 24 Port POE Switch Unifi Security Gateway Pro Unifi Cloud Key Xfinity Router Hue Hub To my frustration, the CAT-5 cables in the networking closet are too short to reach the 1/2 rack I had sitting around. While the closet is now organized, it's sitting on wire shelves rather than in a rack. Ah well.
  23. Which drivers have you tried, and which ones seems the best? I'm torn between updating to a newer NEO panel, or just moving to a different DSC-IT100 driver. My real goal is to be able to automate the basics, such as "Arm the panel, but exclude Windows #3, #4 and door #5". I would like to be able to do that from a T3 / IOS App / or NEEO remote (and ideally a keypad button).
  24. I've got an old (2009) DSC IT-100 with 24 active zones, connected to an Control4 CA-1 via Serial Port. The Control4 driver I'm using ("DSCIT-100 Integration Module Driver") has some issues, and I'm torn between trying to fix them via a newer driver, or just moving to a NEO. The issues I'm having are: Sensors read slowly, or sometimes not-at-all, into the C4 system. For example, C4 thinks my master bedroom window is open, even though the IT-100 thinks it's closed. The motion sensors seem to work well, but the window and door sensors do not. I cannot pre-program "Turn on the alarm, but bypass Windows #23 and #26". This makes the system impossible to arm at night w/o doing everything manually. I would very much like to have this automated. I've spec'd out new NEO system: Panel (HS2064NKCP01) + Transformer, (~$140) Ethernet Adapter (TL280RE) ~$140. 2 basic keypads (~$250) 1 touch screen keypad. (~$250). I don't think I can use my old IT-100 keypads or screen (PTK5507) with the NEO. For those of you that are far more experienced here than me, what's my best course of action? Seems like it would be easy to "drop in" the NEO, as it's just a question of moving the sensors over and programming it. Then the C4 side of things would need to be programmed. Ideally, we could do everything at night using the T3 screens, a NEEO Remote, or even a button on the keypad. //Chris
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