Crustyloafer

You can get a free 7 day trial of the Annex4 driver.  

On 8/17/2020 at 1:22 PM, time2jet said:

That’s pretty interesting. If you went to that extent, what would you be missing to go all IR?

 

Last night it worked. This morning it didn’t. Sometimes, it’ll hang for a full 2 minutes then turn on. Turns on fine via Alexa skill. Have to see which skill it’s using, C4 or LG.

 

 

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If you go all IR, then you will lose mini app capabilities and instant access to the streaming apps those mini drivers are for, also general control will be slightly laggy in comparison to IP control. Also you will lose discrete volume control, so if you use the TV's own speakers you will not be able to jump straight to a particular volume level.

On a few jobs with these, I ended up just adding a second 'dummy' copy of the same driver and binding the IR output to it. I then just added in programming that when the IP controlled TV was turned on the IR controlled 'dummy' TV was to be turned on. That way it used IR to turn the TV on, but otherwise it was controlled via IP.

I've experienced this on several occasions with the C4 database LG IP drivers. It would seem that if the Tv was left in standby for a longer period of time then it would not respond to WoL commands from driver.

We now have gone back to only using the Annex4 WebOS driver for LG TVs as they have been rock solid since I started using them before C4 even had their own IP drivers for LG TVs.

This driver allows you to manually specify the exact URL format for each content source, snapshot, mjpeg stream, H.264 stream etc.

http://www.yatundev.eu/drivers/generic-fixed-ip-camera

Business up Front, Party round the Back.

Great looking room and rack from the front, but personally I wouldn't have posted that picture of the back of the rack, that's appalling.

From the 3.1.1 Release Notes:

6 Life Cycle Changes

I might be wrong but I had thought support for Composer ME had been dropped completely in favour of Composer HE only.

2. I still stick with the default blue for on and black for off, but you could just as easily have red for off and blue or green for on. That said, if its just about visibility of the keypads when the room is dark, that's the whole point in getting engraved buttons. If you have had your lighting control system installed by a professional dealer and they did not include or at least offer to supply engraved keypad buttons after completion of the installation then they have done you a disservice. The engraved buttons not only have text which tells anybody what the buttons actually do, but the engraving is backlit and so when the room is dark the text glows so you can see the keypads and each button clearly. Also as long as you have a button on other keypads to control the remote load then if configured correctly then its status LED should automatically indicate the status of that load, that's just how it's supposed to work if configured correctly.

Sonos, Bluesound, HEOS, Yamaha Musicast

2 hours ago, alanchow said:

Anthem used another developer in the past for their MRX drivers and they had problems with the driver they developed.  As such they approached us about developing a solid driver which we did and released a few months back.  Has had extensive testing by ourselves, Anthem and a bucketload of dealers.

An additional feature we added in that wasn't speced in the scope was that the driver automatically turns on the system when Playfi is detected.  Pretty neat.

I'll second that, whilst I have installed dozens of Anthem MRX receivers using the Annex4 driver that Alan refers to, I had not had any significant issues with it to be honest. It was a little slow at switching inputs, which Alan's driver has resolved, but otherwise has worked perfectly for me so far.

I am now using Alan's driver and as is usually the case from the Chowmain team, the driver has been excellent and and love the ability to switch easily between speaker profiles on the fly.

In our showroom, we have a 5.1.2 channel Atmos system and have 4 separate speaker profiles configured. Using Alan's driver we can switch between a 5.1.2, 5.1, 3.1 or 2.1 channel configuration.

Regarding Anthem AVRs themselves, they are pretty much the only brand we install unless the client's budget dictates otherwise.

6 minutes ago, time2jet said:

Anytime I’ve done anything involving the local controllers and OSD, there’s been a considerable lag in the time the video is shot until displayed. Switching issues I’d imagine. Your experience?


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That's a network or video switching issue.

The DS2 just works, video quality/resolution is not great but as long as you have a controller at each display location for OnScreen Nav you will get live video easily at each display.

4 hours ago, malfaqih92 said:

I need a programmer right now please. if anyone is willing to help with updating my system at this time. I work all the time, and only have tonight to get it updated.

 

Thank you

Where are you and what do you need done?

For UK users, my only major bugbear with Samsung IP control is they completely omitted the 'Guide' button from their API.

A large proportion of consumers in the UK use the built in DVB/Freesat tuners in the TVs for Free to View terrestrial broadcasts, this then requires to use the TV's built in TV Guide function for these broadcast services and there is no Guide command in the IP control API for Samsung TVs. This is unforgivable when it is a dedicated button on the remote control for all their TVs here.

You can work around it but adding a custom programming macro to bring up the Home Bar and then navigate to the 'Guide' function but it should not be required at all.

Sony or LG for the win for me here.

Hi Hendrik,

As there can be only one video endpoint in the room, which in this case is the Theater Display Switcher, all external video sources need to be routed via the device which is allowing you to view the same sources on multiple displays, in your case the video matrix, but could be a HDMI splitter or AVR with dual HDMI outputs. In order for this to work correctly you will need to get your OSD HDMI feed from a source which is connected to the video matrix, that could be a separate EA-1 in the rack where the video matrix is, or a HDMI cable from the EA-3 back to the video matrix.

The alternative arrangement is to separate the two displays into different rooms, one for TV and the other for projector and then add programming so that when one room is turned on the other is turned off and vice versa.

It it quite normal for source devices to remain powered on when you switched between sources, they will get turned off when a 'Room Off' command is issued.

6 hours ago, Pounce said:

 

I'm guessing haven't had kids or if you have you might be divorced

I meant that tongue in cheek

6 hours ago, msgreenf said:

A home professional is not a thing...

Yes, it is, it's an oxymoron.

Hi Aiden, I saw this post come up and it reminded me that you had got in touch with me regarding doing some remote programming work and I responded but I never heard back from you again. I see you are still having ongoing issues with the system so please feel free to get in touch with me again if you feel I could be of assistance. I am actually working with another guy in Ireland right now in a similar situation.

1 hour ago, control4set said:

so I have to contact an authorized c4 dealer to install this?

Yes. Seriously you are going to waste a lot of time and effort if you think you can get a new install of a Control4 system significantly cheaper than going through a dealer.

If you already had a system in place and wanted to add to it there are plenty of dealer who can do remote programming and upgrades etc, but starting from scratch you  are going to need a local dealer who can program and support the system.

You might be better going down the DIY route with more consumer grade/targeted products.

How about this:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2scqc6yhoptkrap/triad-triad-product-guide-rev-e.pdf?dl=0

3 hours ago, silverrules said:

 HC250 are $20 and EA1 more like $300.I have 5 of these throught the house. I am very happy with my current set up and it works wondefully and no plan to upgrade.. I let the braves keep upgrading. 

No worries, that’s what I thought. Glad to hear all working well. 

SR250s, HC200s, HC300s, HC250s, there’s not a single product being discussed in this thread that is remotely new.

Other than for cost saving reasons, why would you not just buy SR260s and EA-1s?

By purchasing HC250s, you are just digging yourself another hole to get out of in the very near future when they become truly end of line and unsupported. You can’t have HC250s in OS3 at all so you are already blocking any further upgrade potential by adding them to the system. 

We do this all the time, the Blustream CAT100AU is the product we use.

Transmitter unit is powered over CAT from the receiver unit in the rack.

Built in DAC at receiver unit for 2Ch analogue out.

Supports Digital Optical and Coaxial transmission (simultaneously if necessary) and will output both natively with a switch to determine which goes through DAC and out via analogue output too.

https://www.blustream.co.uk/cat100au

As Blustream is not distributed in the US, Blustream OEM this model under the Xantech brand and is this unit:

https://www.xantech.com/product/audio-over-cat-cable-built-dac-XT-CAT-ARC-KIT

Exactly the same product, made by Blustream for Xantech.

I think timers are very light on resources, I doubt there would be any issues with multiple timers all running at the same time. That's how I do it with my bathroom lights and extraction fan, when lights turn off and fan is still on it starts a 10 min timer and then switches off the fan.