Hizzle

Drudging this little nugget back up. Any additional info on when Flex maybe offered and integrated with C4? I am in the same boat with a Vera and 80+ Zwave devices. If C4 at least supported Leviton and GE/Lesco, that covers 98% of what I'm using but I'd be happy to try Flex. I read that the Vera replacement, Ezlo, after I ordered one doesn't continue with the C4 integration. So that's not going to work for us.

Hey guys, does anyone have a good place to get high quality sounds for the doorbell announcement? I'd like to download some for the holidays.

I have a few things that run off of schedules (fans, lights, shades, etc...) Now that the time is changing, I don't need them to come on. How's the best way to enable/disable the schedule via the app vs turning it off in Composer? Use case: I have a fan on the patio which always comes on at 8am and turns off at midnight. Now that it is 43deg, there is no reason to have the fan come on so I'd like to disable the schedule but be able to reenable it when it gets warmer out. Would I use a variable for enable/disable? How does this get shown in the app? Another use case is setting the doorbell sound to be a holiday song. It would be good to be able to load up different songs and you can choose which one you want to play directly from the app. Thanks again for the help.

Cynight, One comment about Aprilaire. Our HVAC guy recommended Aprilaire and when we got the thermostat it was huge and the screen was just not as crisp (low resolution) as the Honeywell or Nest or Eccobee. They also required another bulky module to go along with it. I can't remember what it was for but the size and chunkiness of it was a deal breaker. I was excited to try something new, but went back to the Honeywells.

That is the driver I'm using for Honeywell too. A few years ago the only Honeywell Home driver was provided through Blackwire(?). It wasn't great. It's much more compatible now. I love the thermostat. It is responsive, looks good, and has the "smart thermostat" features (like learning how long it takes to cool a room and starts cooling early so that the final temp is reached when you have it scheduled). Works quite well. I don't like managing the thermostats schedules in C4. Honestly once they are built, I never touch them. I just use the manual setting if I need to adjust temperature, which is what C4 does in the driver. So it does exactly what I want. I don't know how difficult it is to build the schedule in the current driver. It was a big pain in the Blackwire one. The Honeywell Home app makes it easy to build and copy the schedule days and times and also allows grouping of days (weekday and weekend), so that's fine with me. As far as cloud control, I've never had an issue with the cloud system being down and not adjusting my thermostat via C4. So again, not an issue. It manages 4 thermostats in the house and everything has been working great.

Any update on the Media Wall function? Definitely waiting on this one. Thanks for the info.

I have had Honeywell Home (Total Connect) in my last two houses and love them. https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH9585WF1004-Programmable-Thermostat-Required/dp/B075BF6V58?th=1 C4 Driver already exists

Wow. You guys are making this is overly complicated. Just create multiple rooms (stereo pair per room) and use a Media Scene to have them all synced. No real programing required. I have a patio with 6 speaker and a sub. It also has 3 tvs. I created multiple rooms Patio (stereo pair), Patio Bar (Stereo Pair), Pool (Stereo Pair), Patio Sub (Sub). I hid everything except Patio and build a Media Scene to manage all 4 "zones" of volume. I had originally thought I would want different channels on the different speakers but it's a cacophony of sound and isn't usable. This works and if I want to change sound inputs from one TV to another, I can do that as well. Oh and since they aren't all wired together, I don't have to worry about speaker impedance etc... If I really want to, I can shut off the different zones, unlike if they were all wired together.

So did the video wall agent make it out today or is it delayed?

I've re-setup a schedule within Control4 to turn the pool lights on after sunset and then turn them off at midnight. They seem to turn on just fine but never turn off. Anyone else having an issue with lights not turning off using a schedule? They work fine on a schedule within the Jandy App but I would prefer to use Control4 for all scheduling.

Hey msgreenf, You're always on top of things. Have you heard any further progress from Control4 on updating this driver? Most appreciated.

I'm having the same issue. I even deleted and readded the driver. Latest is 11/24/20. Still doesn't work. It says that it's connected and "online" through C4 but when you try and change a setting, it isn't actually changed on the pool. The iJandy App works fine but not the C4 driver. It broke about 2 weeks ago, I believe.

If you had a Dune media player then you are a real video person. Zappiti is pretty good but if you want another media player with very good quality video playback, look at the new Dunes or the Zidoo media player line. The C4 driver works pretty well too. I just transitioned off of Dune and Popcorn Hour to Zidoo. I've also had Oppo, WD media players etc. (Sigma Designs and RealTech Real HW decoders with accurate frame rate and color. Zidoo also supports Plex, which is where I store my movie catalog. Zidoo has a pretty good (evolving) Home Theater setup with movie wall etc... like Kalidascape. I wouldn't trust Kalidascape as they went bankrupt and I don't know where their products are, or development is, now. Plex works with Roku and Apple TV. I've got both of those but for True video and surround audio you can't beat a HW decoder. I believe both Roku and Apple need to transcode audio if it's in Dolby TrueHD or higher than 5.1.

We are able to control the firebowls, colored lights, heater etc... with the iAquaLink. So no problem. The app is horrible but the basics work with the Control4 driver.

Nuheat and Warmup for flooring. We installed Warmup and are very happy. For towel racks just remote light/relay switches on schedules. We did those as well.

I just built our house and made sure to include a 2 wire lead to the media closet so that I could use the contact closure on the EA5 to switch the fireplace on and off. Since most gas log sets are microvolt controllers all you need is the ability to control the contact closure on-off switch.

I hate to ask this somewhat basic question but I'm having an issue with my programming. I have a well pump which should only run for 6 hrs then shut off for 2 hrs, to refill, and keep repeating. I set up the pump on a Relay (light) but can also set it up as a motor relay. The issue I'm having is that the conditional programming doesn't seem to work. I want to activate a "light scene" and then have the pump work until I shut it off. I also want it to push me a notification every time it comes on, so that I know when it is working. I tried the below. It turns the pump on but it doesn't seem to follow the programing. Can you give me some thoughts on the best way to program this? Most appreciated.

Thanks, I was messing around with this for the last 3 days. I deleted the driver, rebooted and readded. Then I autoconfiged and looked at the communicator and it is back in the "Idle" state. That worked! I really appreciate it.

The camera and everything else works but I'm getting a 403 Forbidden for the SIP Registration when looking at the door station web configuration

Ok, so my Door Station is not connecting to the SIP Registrar (no Intercom Anyware) any longer, again. Tried the reboot, autoconfig and Refresh Navigators. It says the Door Station is online in Composer. It says that the gateway is registered but it says that the state is Not Ready under Communication Local Devices. So, it doesn't connect on the iOS app either. Any ideas? I've let this one sit overnight, which magically corrected itself last time, but no luck this time.

Thanks for the offer. I had rebooted my door station 3 times as well and run the autoconfig. Nothing. Went to sleep last night and work up and it seems to now be registered and working. Strange. Also, Apple rolled out an iOS update which includes History but don't see Intercom Anywhere yet. Don't know if I need to set anything up or if it will come out in another update. I'll have to look.

I just upgraded to 3.2 and now my door station 2 isn't connecting to Intercom Anywhere. Is anyone else having the same issue? It shows that the SIP account isn't Registering.

Rav and Cyknight, Thanks for the responses. The Audio Matrix just provides switching and the Amp is controlling volume. The sub is a standard powered sub (SVS with built in amplifier) and is in a recess on the patio. It doesn't have a line-in input but does have a crossover. I can use the option of the Y jack to split the source out of the Audio Matrix but then I will need to change this one "room" patio to have volume controlled by the Audio Matrix instead of the Audio Amp. I'm not sure if I'll run into any issues like this because I thought the Audio Matrix already outputs at 100%, so I would have to tweak that across all the rooms to accommodate for the single room volume being controlled by the Audio Matrix vs the Audio Amp. I am up for other ideas but was thinking that I would use a second output on the Audio Matrix for the sub and then I would only have the sub as volume controlled off the Audio Matrix but the room volume would still be controlled off the Audio Amp. But, as Cyknight mentioned, there would need to be some programing to synchronize the volumes and inputs. I was hoping for a slightly easier implementation.

Thanks for the guidance. I've got a C4-16ZAMS-V3-B - Switch C4-16AMP3-B - Amp So the audio endppoint volume is on the C-4-16AMP3-B and not the switch. I was thinking that the switch would be audio endpoint for the sub but then the Amp would be audio endpoint for the speakers/room.

I appreciate the help on this one. I scoured the forums but didn't see anything on this topic. I have a C4 Audio Switch connected to a C4 Amp, which produces stereo (of course), and I also ran an independent powered sub (RCA) line. How can I use the audio switch to coordinate the stereo pair of speakers and the sub volume level? I assume I need to create a separate room with the sub (patio sub) and then sync the volume controls to the original room? Does that sound right? Direction is most appreciated.