Jump to content
C4 Forums | Control4

Pounce

c4Forums Member
  • Posts

    1,253
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    17

Everything posted by Pounce

  1. You may want to consider an iterative approach. First get it all set up with a basic layout. Simply get it all working and get familiar. Then when you are more familiar and have evaluated the need a bit more then you can add vlan(s). I mostly mean be kind to yourself and ease into it.
  2. Google says Annex4 has a driver for that device. Sky offers a wifi device you can add to that device for control also...
  3. Maybe a C4 Z2IO if the location isn't near your controller.
  4. Not directly compatible. This and with the relatively small house there may not be the need for the more expensive Lutron lines. When the EMEA guys come online they might recommend Tasmota flashed Tuya switches. They are 10-15 bucks each and can be controlled with MQTT integration. There are also Shelly integrations. I just think the Lutron or C4 switches are going to be a better fit for the OP.
  5. I would not recommend the old Adorne smart lighting. No offense. For the hassle that would unfold I'd still recommend C4 switches.
  6. Yes, that would work, but you aren't limited to Sonoff. There are other ways to do 433. MQTT being all the rage these days one can consider using a gateway firmware on a Sonoff bridge like https://docs.openmqttgateway.com/ . One of the nicer features of the firmware is that you can cluster them to cover a larger home or site by using Multiple devices.
  7. Well, it was a little tongue in cheek. I sort of meant that you shouldn't consider cheaping out on switches and if your budget is less than 50 per switch you can still get C4 switches if you just need half as many
  8. Reduce the number of needed switch and buy C4. Honestly, think you want to use a local dealer based on the type of questions you have been posting.
  9. ha! interesting and weird button shapes. Can't decide if those are 4 clovers, butts, hearts or ?!? What the one hole on the perimeter? IS that a through hole or what?
  10. Mystery product or something you want to share?
  11. I don't think you ever participated in the other thread you created
  12. No worries. Brass is fine for other needs and we don't know what the needs are...
  13. Just be sure to get the steel one if this is on potable water. The brass one has lead.
  14. Do you want or need a security gateway/appliance? While you can replace the router with a router you might want to evaluate a your setup and consider a holistic upgrade. What do you have for switches?
  15. I think I would take a few minutes and check the outside plug again. From this photo it almost appears as if you have all 4 pairs installed. I'd also check to see if you have 12v on the green plug. If you have 4 pairs on the plug and the tester shows disconnected 3 and 4 then you can try putting a new plug on it. Or if you want to test further you can cut the plug off it and then test with the alligator clips 3 and 4 to the inside plug to see if the issue is the pug or the cable is damaged at some point in the run. You can also maybe take a closer look to see if that pair for the power connector is really coming from the cat5 by unwrapping wherever they seem to be mating up together.
  16. You can test the pair that is 12v to ensure there is still conductivity on both ends. I'd then wonder about the port on the switch. I think if nothing changed and the camera stopped working and then he tested the camera with another cable attached to the switch and it worked... its either the cable or the switch port.
  17. Up thread he tested it. Also, according to up thread this worked and then stopped working.
  18. The picture of the plug for the camera will be useful.
  19. What kind of PoE switch was this camera attached to?
  20. Yea, just wanting to get clear confirmation since it was not completely clear from the description.
  21. Just to be clear you disconnected both ends of the cable for that camera for the test correct? You unplugged it from the camera and you unplugged the other end of that cable in your rack so it wasn't connect to a switch . You then took the tester and plugged one end of the cable into one part of the tester. You then went to the other end of the cable and put the other end on the cable. You then checked the lights on the tester. All this correct?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.