-defunct-

Step 1: Use VLAN 1 for management only.

Step 2: Make two more VLANs, make sure zone bonding is enabled and your pakedge switches set to the correct vlans.

58 minutes ago, ekohn00 said:

If you create a CONTROL4 VLAN, and everything having to do with C4, including remotes, is in that VLAN then the other's have no bearing.

That said....  I just find it so much easier to go without vlans - especially when most connections are GE. The work won't give much performance improvements.

Not sure about you, but I guess I was assuming that everyone wants to integrate everything on their network into Control4 like me.

Can't really separate stuff if it's all supposed to be controlled and integrated.

That's not an atypical quote.

CA-1 is limited in capability to the EA-1, notably less I/O connections. EA-1s are ideal behind TVs so you can have the Control4 On-Screen Display experience.

13 minutes ago, ekohn00 said:

VLANs will put devices in separate "buckets"...So you can have a camera VLAN, Normal VLAN, Kids VLAN, etc...

you get performance improvements as broadcasts from one VLAN are kept from being broadcasted to the other VLANs.

Only problem with this is that Control4 requires those broadcasts to be passed through from VLAN to VLAN.

Have to be conscious about what is being sent onto a different VLAN and if it will still function if multicast or broadcasts are blocked to other VLANs.

If you can configure the UniFi and know how to troubleshoot networks, then I'd say that may work.

If not, then I would get something that is easier to configure and works off the shelf. Misconfigured UniFi networks can wreck a system.

First thing I would do is remove the ISP router or bridge it to your own router.

Second thing I would do is actually get managed switches. Unmanaged are great for ends of the network, but the Core Switch should be managed.

Third, have nothing except your core switch going to your router.

But if you turned off the sleep mode, then it could be you need a new one. Big thing to try is a different brand AP (Yes I know people have luck with Ubiquiti). I would put in a Ruckus or other AP as a test.

They drop off the network when they go to sleep by default.

I use it for starting favorites or devices.

Pretty much nothing after that except for confirming room off and looking at the volume level. Honestly the volume feedback is one of the major reasons my SR260 is staying on its dock.

You can know for sure by looking at the settings and system details. It will say (local) or (remote).

If it is (remote) while being on your local network, then two things might cause that: 1) iPad is on a different vlan, 2) the app cannot find the local system with a multicast search.

Hmmm, I honestly didn't notice much. I use a Roku and the 'ok' circle button works for pausing everything I've played on it.

either a shorted speaker wire or a bad amp. A bad amp is more likely, but I would check the speaker wires.

Correct. You'll need to allow app while data saver is on.

If everything you have done still hasn't fixed it. Then you can check if your phone is limiting background data for the app. It won't get notifications if background data is disabled.

Typically yes. The Control4 4k switch does have the ability to do two groups of EDIDs, but it does not downscale so your non-4k TVs will not be able to show video from 4k sources.

If you are dropping Just Add Power, I'd look into Binary MOIP.

6 minutes ago, zaphod said:

Ok, so I am not missing something.  Now for the obvious question, why can't you?  Couldn't a button be added under Now Playing for Audio Settings?  Or somewhere else. 

Pretty much any audio UI that you ever see includes the ability to adjust balance, treble and bass.

That's a question for Control4.

You can set up a custom button in HE and then add programming to the button event for up/down, left/right.

As the above post, the experience with the Android app or a Control4 touchscreen would likely be what you are looking for.

If that was the case, I'm sure everyone would build desktops with high specs and use virtual director instead of a controller and then nobody would buy controllers and the CA10 wouldn't be sellable at all...

Without one, you're pretty much limited on what you can do to guessing. So I'd look to get a controller asap.

Try on a live system. Virtual director is very very limited in functionality for drivers or anything.

It's more there to make project templates.

It does not. Learning IR for devices requires a dealer with Pro.

Minimum sample rate is 48khz/24 bit.

I believe the max limit drops from 192khz/24bit when there are over a certain number of connections per a controller. I believe the EA5 drops to 96khz/24bit max when three outputs are used on it. Two outputs I believe stays at 192khz/24bit and you could keep it that high and have four outputs if you had two EA5s.

That being said, I think Qobuz, Tidal, and Amazon Music HD hardly ever go above 48khz/24bit.

They are in C4's online database.

Why not use a Universal Mini App driver?

Makes it so you can select Netflix, Youtube, or any of the supported apps on a few different devices (e.g. Roku) and everything automatically switches correctly.