Köhler Medientechnik

Did you approach your old dealer to support in this case?

I´d expect there´s a way to transfer a license to a new dealer. But that should be driven by your old dealer. If he´s not willing to support here, he´s the one to blame, here IMHO because that´s not a proper way to phase out old customers/projects.

The bass module (wouldn´t call that a subwoofer...) needs some sort of switching signal to turn on as it´s normally sold as a complete Lifestyle system.

Don´t know if it´s just a 12V trigger signal, but probably worth a try.

Yep, that´s the reason why it was cheap.

I had a look at these some time ago myself because i wanted to use them with other control systems.
I dropped the idea because especially these matrixes are really hard to control and the API is not open.

My advice would be:

1) try to give it back (won´t work IMHO because you should know what you buy before buying)
2) resell it yourself

7 hours ago, Cyknight said:

Dante died 700 years ago, I doubt he's coming

Well, he came back in a different appearance 

Makes distribution and cabling of large installs pretty easy. 

1 hour ago, Dueport said:

I’ve seen integrators use speakon connectors for speaker patch panels. These look nice too - any thoughts on these?

Yes, i like these a lot. Our home cinema speaker come with Speakon connectors by default. Rock solid and they are locked when connected.

However, on the rack side, they need quite some space so we usually wire them directly into the amps without a patch panel.

Problem solved. I wasn´t aware that you can manually set the IP address in the network-connections view... 

It´s still a mystery to me why the Sony doesn´t show up as a SDDP device (a Yamaha AVR in the same network does), but at least it´s working now.

Cheers, Thorsten

Hi,

i´m currently trying to set up a Sony VW590ES (AFAIK that´s the VW325ES in the US) for Control4.
I did the config according to the documentation in the C4 driver, but the projector is not found.
I´ve done that successfully with my own Sony projector (VW5000ES) and this worked flawlessly.

Since the process is actually pretty straightforward, i don´t really know where to look for the issue...

According to the KB, there used to be a driver where you could input IP and MAC manually, but all of the drivers now seem to rely on auto detection.

Any ideas?

Cheers, Thorsten

Hi,

i´ve worked with Trinnov processors before and now have a CX-A5200 on my desk.

Shouldn´t be any different like any other AVR - you need to connect the endpoints correctly and don´t forget the volume-connections.
And you need to be careful to catch the right zone (main, 1, 2) of the driver.

14 hours ago, eggzlot said:

Personally I’d use a pc with blue iris or a synology with enough licenses.  It’s more flexible in terms of camera compatibly, it works in c4, etc.  and by flexible you now have an extra PC or a NAS for additional storage vs a pure dedicated NVR.  You can get a dell refurb pc for 300 or so that will work for a modest blue iris set up

One question reg. BlueIris:

Is it possible to combine several cameras into one stream and stream that to a target?

2 hours ago, drmark12pa said:

Also, with the quality factor when selecting a low number it seems a bit more muddy or full vs. a high number seems to tighten things up but I do lose a bit more bass when selecting the higher number it seems.

The quality factors works in conjunction with a filter you set. For instance you set a filter around 1000Hz to lower 3db. Filters never work specifically just to the frequency you set, but also on an area around that frequency. With the corresponding q-factor, you adjust how broad around the 1000Hz the filter works. A high number on the q-factor means a narrow filter, a low number means a broader filter. 

In general, when i try to tackle a sound problem like described, i´d always do a measurement to see where the problem is. Then i set a specific filter exactly to fix the issue.
I can image it´s pretty hard to try it the way you described and as it works with C4. We´re always using external DSPs for sound optimization, so unfortunately, i can´t help you on your specific problem...

What do you want to achieve exactly?

Usually, you use an EQ to adjust towards a target curve. This target curve is the outcome of a measurement of the room response.
So actually, you know upfront what frequency range you want to adjust to what level and that´s it. No need to run through a lot of settings.

Quality factor: In easy words, it´s the width of the filter you´re applying. 

Sounds like a housewife is getting impatient over a huge hole in the wall. 

2 hours ago, Cyknight said:

Any half-decent LED specialty store will have much higher grade strips for the same price including a powersupply and controller, but it likely requires soldering etc.

And if you look for some strips with pigtails attached, it doesn´t even require soldering.

3 hours ago, zaphod said:

It must be tricky for a new owner to take over many C4 homes.  When you sell a C4 home what should you take with you, assuming that you will want to have C4 in your new home?  I would likely take all controllers except the main controller, and all except one remote.  If I had a Neeo I would buy a used SR-250 and have that put in.  I doubt the purchaser in the house is going to give you anywhere near the value of the hardware.

When selling a house, you don´t sell a long list of pieces, you sell the whole thing.

If you can sell it without your automation system depends on how it was designed. If the basic functionality is self-sufficient (e.g. based on a bus-system) and the home automation is designed on top of it for the comfort functionality, then it should be possible to sell without the automation system (or at least ask the buyer what he prefers).

If it´s all tied together, then the automation system is part of the house and taking it out would reduce the value of the whole house much more than just the value of the automation hardware, because that would leave the house disfunctional.

In my opinion, it always comes done to the same assessment:

If you´ve more time than money, then go for open-source/DIY, if it´s the other way round, go for an integrator.

If, at the bottom of your heart, you´re actually a DIYler and actually want to play with the latest and greatest stuff  yourself, then you´ll never be happy to pay somebody else to do that for you. But if you´re just rational about getting specific functionality without being interested how it is delivered, then let somebody else do it for you.

In my opinion, it´s not about the pros and cons of system A or B, it´s more about your personal attitude towards DIY.

Wow! Love it!

11 minutes ago, msgreenf said:

It has a free trial so try it out! But this will work w any receiver. 

Will do.

Hi,

how can i check if it works together with a given AVR/PrePro?

We´re using mainly Trinnov Altitude PrePros in our installations.

Would it be possible to 

• toggle through upmixer selection
• toggle through remapper mode
• select presets (max. 29 to chose from)

?

11 hours ago, ERDrPC said:

I should have picked up on it but was dealing with a million other build issues at the time. 

I totally understand that. Hard to assess as a layman what can be easily fixed afterwards and what not.

So i´d ask your installer what´s his recommendation to fix the issue.

12 hours ago, ERDrPC said:

Can the jap tiler take a ust projector and break up the projected single source nto 4 different sources? 

Not sure if i understand correctly, but it works the other way round for this setup: you inject multiple sources into the tiler (what you fed into your multiple TVs before) and the tiler creates a combined video stream out of that that is sent to the projector.

12 hours ago, ERDrPC said:

Any have suggestions for the 4 flanking TVs with minimal bezel to go around  a 85" Sony tv with the total height between the two flanking and 85" being similar

I don´t think there´s a nice solution for this. Since you´re limited in the available space (width) of the installation, and screen height and width are tight to each other because of the standard aspect ratio of 16:9, the smaller the width gets, the smaller the height as well.

To be honest, i´d let your installer fix the inwall speaker position even if it means to open up the wall again. Were they specified to be installed wider and he installed against that specification?

11 minutes ago, mujtaba.khokhar said:

I know this, that’s why I said the above, “just stating my own opinion” 

My point is just that your statement was a bit to general IMHO, suggesting that RTI is technically not able to be updated remotely - which is not the case. 

Technically it is, but you don´t do it because of personal bad experience. That´s a different message IMHO. And of course i´m totally fine with that. 

And let me add this: i also find the remote update and management functionality of C4 superior to both Crestron and RTI.

3 minutes ago, mujtaba.khokhar said:

Bad experience - don’t trust it anymore. Others in the same boat have said the same

OK, fair enough. But then it´s not a limitation of the system.

3 hours ago, mujtaba.khokhar said:

Want to change one button on an Rti screen = Truck roll out.

Why that? I´m doing all of my Crestron/RTI-installations remotely. On-site visit only for hardware installation.

In my experience, the life expency of a fiber hybrid cable is not that good as for a passive cable. There are active curcuits and a media convertor built-in that can break over time.

Plus it needs power supply from the sender´s HDMI port (at least the majority of the inexpensive ones) which can cause stability issues.

Having said that, for 20ft, i´d go for a passive cable, at around 30ft+, i´d go for hybrid fiber cable. At 60ft+, i´d go for a CAT-transmitter/receiver-combo.

12 hours ago, BuffaloC4 said:

Many, many, many people will try to influence you to go the balun route. 

Not for 20'. Shouldn´t be an issue even with a good passive HDMI cable.