SpencerT

"In a session" is under "digital media" on the right side.

Great idea, thank you. Embarrassed to say that I did not even even realize I could create my own variables! I'll give this shot and post back. Thanks!

I apologize for the silly question as I'm sure this is pretty easy. I'm trying to program a pico button to "cycle through" existing media sessions. The intention is each button press would move me to the next session but it stops after the first active session and subsequent presses don't do anything. Any suggestions on what I'm missing? Thanks, Spencer

You'll want to click on my account, then my system and make sure your controller shows that it has checked in. You won't be able to see your lights etc from the portal.

Can you see your controller on customer.control4.com?

Thank you for making my point for me.

I come from an industry that uses systems from the same companies you mention. I'm not sure about your situation, but my annual M&S costs to any of those companies is significantly more than what I pay in annual support to SNAP/Control4.

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Halo - Q4 2022 Halo Touch - Q1 2023 www.snapav.com/premiere

DHCP is fine... With a reservation to make sure the device pulls the same address every time.

Yes. Pretty close in size to the puck Alexa dots. Responses only come through the micro (not through your av distribution) unless you have the Josh Core appliance.

Make a reservation in your router (or DHCP server) for that TV.

Notwithstanding the fact that I'm jealous you live somewhere with decent radio stations... Check out the Rotel T11. There is a serial driver for it but I can't speak to how well it's integrated. Mine is in an RV and not integrated with c4. Driver: https://drivers.control4.com/solr/drivers/browse?q=Rotel+t11 Tuner: https://rotel.com/product/t11

Thank you, lots of good options in this thread. I appreciate all the help!

Thanks Jeff. Unfortunately it definitely gets hotter in than that in the attic.

Thank you both. I definitely don't want to add a visible switch. If we can't get this working on the dimmer itself or with a Shelly, then I'll have to hide a switch in the attic (though I have concerns with the Texas heat). I really wish c4 made a switch keypad.

Awesome, thank you both.

What is the best practice (or even some options) for configuring a non dimming load on a keypad dimmer? Something like a chain of bathroom vent fans. I would assume there is some kind of relay I can use that will prevent a motor from trying to "dim". A Shelly device? Something else? Is there a control4 relay I can use? I'm being hard headed and do not want to use standard switches. I just want keypads in this new space. Panelized is not an option for me in this home (main panel location and aesthetics). Centralized switches (due to the location of my main panel) would need to be hidden at the other end of the house.

Fingers crossed.. https://www.eventbrite.com/e/snap-one-product-premiere-event-tickets-406277556107

This. Especially if you share an account in your household.

You need a split tunnel VPN to allow local traffic.

Apologies if this has already been discussed. I couldn't find any mention of it on the forums. Anyone had a chance to use it? Control4 Zigbee 802.15.4 to Somfy RS485 DMI https://www.somfypro.com/products/-/e-cat//1870533

Here is a white paper (and controlled test) that Panduit put together on cabling for HDBaseT. Covers a lot of what is discussed in this thread. https://www.panduit.com/content/dam/panduit/en/solutions/solution-pdf/NI-ENT-Cabling_HDBTApplications_CPAT80-WW-ENG.pdf

SOLD Josh micro, black. Like new condition. Purchased from my dealer in mid March 2022 to test out. Have reluctantly decided to stick with Alexa for now. In the original box with everything it came with. SOLD

Sounds like it could be an issue with interference on the cat5 cable feeding that particular extender. Do you have an extra cat5 cable terminated behind the TV that you can connect the box to (and connect the other matching end of that cable where your c4 gear is)? You could also try swapping the HDMI cable from the extender to the TV and the HDMI cable on the far end just to eliminate those as potential issues but this sounds more like an issue with the specific cat5 cable feeding that tv's extender.