SpencerT

54 minutes ago, msgreenf said:

you can be negative and think it was to squeeze the customer, but I really don't think that was/is the intent

To add... SNPO offers both as in house brands. Matrix and matrix amp.

Additionally, Episode is not the only game in town when it comes to matrix amps. Nor is Triad the only game in town when it comes to matrices. 

19 minutes ago, BY96 said:

I really like the idea of a driver to assign the up/down buttons to the last button clicked. I will research that possibility. 

All my other keypads are for music and I just use the up/down buttons for volume in whichever room(s) is/are playing (single tap) or to skip the playlist ahead or back (double tap). It has worked very well. This is my first one for lighting, so trying to figure out how to best use the up/down buttons. 

Thanks!

Update - I couldn't find a driver that does what you described on Driver Central from Domo. Will keep looking. 

I *think* it's this one. 

https://drivercentral.io/platforms/control4-drivers/utility/keypad-enhancer/

There was a thread a while ago where lots of members chimed in with their best practices on keypads. Being new to keypads myself, it was really helpful.

I'll see if I can find it, and I'll link back to it here. 

Yes. But you can also do hold to dim (or hold to brighten) on that same button.

I initially played with the up down buttons for lights making them change based on the scene - it was a disaster (likely due to my programming, but it was just too hard for us to remember).

I've learned to leave the keypads with the up down to be "fixed" to whatever button is above it (in our case, volume for music). In the few spots I have double gang keypads, I only put the up down button set on 1 of the keypads and just use a regular button on the other.

I think domo has some cool drivers to make the up down assign to the last button you clicked (and then go back to something default). I don't remember which one though. 

I wonder if you could do this with splash tiles? @videostorm

Dude.

Ad-free subscription is literally less than $.03 a day. 

Or "stick it to the man" and run an ad blocker.

Or just deal with the ads?

I'm not judging.

I just don't understand coming to a forum, from which you have clearly received value, to bitch about ads, while not bothering to hit the easy button.

Hope you figure out a good solve. 

1 hour ago, diwit said:

So underground meter/main shut off by sidewalk, main line from there to inside of garage main house shutoff. 18 year old PVC line. The little red indicator dial is still moving, with the garage shut off closed

1) One full rotation, of the low flow indicator takes 7 minutes, Any idea on how much water is leaking

2) Leak detection companies in my area, one wants $350, the other $250, pay up even if they don't find the leak, is that standard operating procedure? Doesn't feel right, to pay for a service that isn't completed?

3) Saw on u tube, homemade leak detector, made with pipe, styrofoam cup and a stethoscope, I'll try anything at this point.

I would dig it up myself but the line runs near an oak tree and under a 2 car concrete driveway with patio paver extensions. To run a new line, its the same problematic terrain. Where it needs to connect on the other side of the driveway, 4 foot wide pavers all the way up to where the line enters the garage, it was plumbed inside a concrete block wall

Any suggestions appreciated

Probably have much better luck posting to terry love forums or similar...

<vent>

No offense to anyone (and certainly not to you, Andrew), but i have heard this "make sure you run fiber everywhere" argument since the mid 90s. I don't at all agree.

Fiber to an outbuilding? Absolutely. Burial or aerial? Go for it for protection alone. Nether have f*ck titty to do with bandwidth.

You truly have client devices pulling 40gbps bandwidth on your LAN? At home? Good on ya. But I'd suggest you fix that.

Fiber for the next (non ratified) legacy system? Don't waste your money or your time.

That's what conduit and $20 worth of pull cord are for (If you buy the tiny spools). 

Cable has a finite life. 10 year old "dark" fiber isn't even worth the time to terminate and test. It's faster and cheaper to pull it fresh. 

No offense to anyone. 

</vent>

4 minutes ago, OceanDad said:

Hi,

Working remotely on an apartment refurb project in the UK - ground floor apartment with no CAT cable currently in the property.  Floor construction is concrete slab, on top of which will be underfloor heating encased in a concrete screed.  Walls are solid block, so very difficult to run any cable through the walls (not sheetrock and timber etc.)

My question is whether I could use outdoor/direct burial CAT6 cable directly within the screed ?  That would be very simple as it could be done at the same time as the underfloor heating is being laid.  Will the jacket of the cable be 'screed-proof' ?  Or do I need to run conduit etc. ?

The jacket will not be "screed" proof. Run a conduit.

Pulse eight (used to be zektor) has analog matrices that will cover up to 64 zones. 

1 hour ago, alanchow said:

Why don't you use a TP-Link Kasa outdoor smart plug.  Its designed to be used outdoors.

https://www.kasasmart.com/us/products/smart-plugs/kasa-smart-wi-fi-outdoor-plug

Driver here

https://chowmain.software/drivers/control4-tplink

The chowmain kasa driver (agent) is awesome. No need to bother your dealer to add or replace devices - you can do it from HE.

Fwiw - even the super cheap non outdoor kasa plugs have a higher real world heat tolerance than they advertise (at least in my experience). I have a few of them installed inside of metal landscaping transformer boxes. I live in Texas, it's been over 100F daily most of the summer. They get much hotter inside those boxes.

At $8 a pop, when they start acting stupid (usually a little over a year of being outside baked in the sun), I simply throw them away and replace them with another. 

I do have a couple of the outdoor rated (bulkier) kasa plugs. We use them at holidays when the DW wants to put a bunch of lighted crap outside. I quit bringing them in 3 years ago. They still work fine.

3 minutes ago, Cooper said:

Hello. This might be a dumb question, but if I were to put in a configurable keypad in place of a light switch, could it control the existing light through that switch?

You need a dimmer keypad for load control (and keypad functions). The configurable keypads wire up like an outlet and don't have the ability to control a load. 

On 3.3.3, ea3v2. I don't ever do lighting from the 260 (I actually realized that i barely use the 260 anymore). 

But mine appears to work fine across different lighting platforms  (c4, kasa, lutron, shelly). 

I know that doesn't help, but I'm happy to share whatever data points you might want.

They are compatible with dual fuel heat.

Here is the installation guide.

https://www.control4.com/docs/product/control4-wireless-thermostat-by-aprilaire/installation-guide/english/latest/control4-wireless-thermostat-by-aprilaire-installation-guide-rev-a.pdf

You could disable chimes at the panel and set up chimes to be announcements in c4. Then manage it with programming.

That is awesome, thank you!

I apologize for the hijack. If I'm understanding, the fan speed controller can essentially become a "fixed layout" keypad and still switch control a load (as opposed to dimming a load) and give you programmable keypad buttons? Like one button to toggle the load and 4 buttons to use as a keypad?

1 minute ago, BY96 said:

 

To make sure I understand, if my wife's playlist is set as public, and I add it to my account, will it get updated in my account each time she updates it at her end or do I have to re-add her updated playlist whenever she makes changes? If the latter, then I will have to delete her old playlist in my account, which then means re-doing the playlist shortcuts in C4. 

This is what I don't know (I only have 1 Tidal account that I rarely use), but it would be easy enough to test.  Have her set one as public, add it, have her delete or add some tracks, see if it reflects.  I know they are trying to make the playlists more "spotify-like" (or at least they were in 2022) and this is how it works in spotify...

I only have 1 tidal account, but I'd have to think if she set her playlist as public, you should be able to follow it or add it to your account and see her updates. I might be totally wrong. 

Just now, BY96 said:

Looks like FreeYourMusic can do it...

 

https://support.freeyourmusic.com/helpdesk/KB/View/43115812-transferring-between-two-account-on-the-same-platform

Cool, give it a shot!

1 minute ago, BY96 said:

The Soundiiz article seems to say you CANNOT sync between two accounts of the same service. You have to export an import CSV files, so that won't work. 

you import into soundiiz (from tidal, into soundiiz), then from soundiz, disconnect your old tidal, add in your new tidal. 

Just now, BY96 said:

So glad I asked here! This is exactly what I need. Thank you!!

I have been comparing Soundiiz and TuneMyMusic? Do you know any benefits of one of those over the other, or what about FreeYourMusic? Soundiiz looks the most expensive (but still cheap) but seems to offer the most features. 

I used tunemymusic years ago and did not like it. Soundiiz has all the services I wanted (and a much better sync vs just transfer) and did a better job of matching songs in my playlists between different services. Add in MFA auth and the ability to import into soundiiz (for keeping track of my playlists and connecting different accounts) and I was sold.

I have never used freeyourmusic.

Pretty sure all 3 have some basic tier or free trial so you can play around. 

YMMV. 

25 minutes ago, BY96 said:

I have heard of such a thing, but thought it was intended only for transferring your playlist from one service to another. I will look into it, but please elaborate on how this would work for my purposes. Thanks!

https://support.soundiiz.com/hc/en-us/articles/360015677033

I believe (have never tested it, I'm happy with soundiiz) that freeyourmusic allows multiple accounts on the same service. 

https://freeyourmusic.com/transfer-tidal-to-tidal

1 hour ago, BY96 said:

This might be an issue I need to address with Tidal, but since I know there are some of you who use Tidal within Control4, I thought I would start here. 

I am using a family plan for Tidal, but my account is the one registered with Control4. I created a playlist for my wife within my account and then sent it to her for her to use on the Tidal app on her phone. She then added some songs to the playlist and sent it back to me so that I could replace the one I had for her with the new one within my account, so her new playlist would be reflected within Control4. However, I discovered that the shortcut for her playlist no longer worked in the C4 app even though her new playlist had the exact same name as the old one. I figured the shortcut would point to the name, and since the new playlist had the same name, it would find it. Apparently, I was wrong, so any time my wife updates her playlist and sends it to me for integration with Control4, I have to make create new shortcuts.

Here is my question... Is there a better way of handling this situation that I am not seeing? I really wish Tidal had shared playlists that could be edited by more than one person, but that is not the case. (And no, I have no interest in switching to a different service that has shared playlists.)

Thanks for any suggestions. 

I'd suggest setting up a sync through soundiiz (or something similar) as opposed to deleting and re+adding playlist. 

Looks to be briefly discussed in this post..

This works again. Thank you @msgreenf for reporting it to c4/snap!