Gates Control

[vitali]

Hello everybody. Got some challenge. Guy wants to add automation to gates (open/close). But,

1. there is only power there, no additional cables at all

2. it will be pretty hard to pull any additional wires there (can't connect to controller)

3. zigbee doesn't reach that point (can't put zigbee relay)

I thought about pretty messy and potentially not reliable solution. To use weatherproof box near the gate, put inside HC-250 and connect it to internet with internet over power line adapter. 

Any thoughts or advises? 

Thanks.

 

[AK1]

4 minutes ago, vitali said:

Hello everybody. Got some challenge. Guy wants to add automation to gates (open/close). But,

1. there is only power there, no additional cables at all

2. it will be pretty hard to pull any additional wires there (can't connect to controller)

3. zigbee doesn't reach that point (can't put zigbee relay)

I thought about pretty messy and potentially not reliable solution. To use weatherproof box near the gate, put inside HC-250 and connect it to internet with internet over power line adapter. 

Any thoughts or advises? 

Thanks.

 

Can you use one of Unif's point-to-point wireless network products to get the gate on to your local network?

[Amr]

1 hour ago, vitali said:

Hello everybody. Got some challenge. Guy wants to add automation to gates (open/close). But,

1. there is only power there, no additional cables at all

2. it will be pretty hard to pull any additional wires there (can't connect to controller)

3. zigbee doesn't reach that point (can't put zigbee relay)

I thought about pretty messy and potentially not reliable solution. To use weatherproof box near the gate, put inside HC-250 and connect it to internet with internet over power line adapter. 

Any thoughts or advises? 

Thanks.

 

Can u use Zigbee extender! I don’t recommend anything outside the house in an enclosure it won’t survive!

[vitali]

4 hours ago, AK1 said:

Can you use one of Unif's point-to-point wireless network products to get the gate on to your local network?

Yes, kind of same idea, no? 

[vitali]

2 hours ago, Amr said:

Can u use Zigbee extender! I don’t recommend anything outside the house in an enclosure it won’t survive!

I had some issues with zigbee mesh going far, didn't work stable.....

[Amr]

You only option after WiFi is lan over powerline, use Global Cache iTach TCP/IP to Contact Closure (Relay) and a pair of TP-Link AV2000, total cost would be around $250 or more. GC have a driver in C4 database!

[WholeHomeControl]

11 hours ago, Amr said:

You only option after WiFi is lan over powerline, use Global Cache iTach TCP/IP to Contact Closure (Relay) and a pair of TP-Link AV2000, total cost would be around $250 or more. GC have a driver in C4 database!

The one thing I would consider here is the climate.  I'm not sure this gear is rated for sub-zero temperatures.

[Amr]

14 minutes ago, WholeHomeControl said:

The one thing I would consider here is the climate.  I'm not sure this gear is rated for sub-zero temperatures.

iTach’s are very solid, have them in an outdoor enclosure and they are working for years, survived excessive heat already, the TP link also working in a very hot environment and delivering for me, if they survive heat am sure they can survive cold weather.

[WholeHomeControl]

1 minute ago, Amr said:

iTach’s are very solid, have them in an outdoor enclosure and they are working for years, survived excessive heat already, the TP link also working in a very hot environment and delivering for me, if they survive heat am sure they can survive cold weather.

I will just point out that the TP-link unit is rated for a min operating temp of 32F according to their spec sheet.

https://www.tp-link.com/us/home-networking/powerline/tl-pa9020p-kit/#specifications

[vitali]

20 hours ago, Amr said:

You only option after WiFi is lan over powerline, use Global Cache iTach TCP/IP to Contact Closure (Relay) and a pair of TP-Link AV2000, total cost would be around $250 or more. GC have a driver in C4 database!

Sounds interesting. Thanks for respond and advice!!!! will check that option!!!  the system runs on HC-800 and 2.9.1 (whatever till 2.10.6) I found old HC-250- BL ( not bl-1), So just wanted to use it as relay and sensor for gates. My big concern is stability....

[vitali]

8 hours ago, WholeHomeControl said:

I will just point out that the TP-link unit is rated for a min operating temp of 32F according to their spec sheet.

https://www.tp-link.com/us/home-networking/powerline/tl-pa9020p-kit/#specifications

Thanks. yep I actually wanted to use something like that. 

Thanks again.

[vitali]

9 hours ago, WholeHomeControl said:

The one thing I would consider here is the climate.  I'm not sure this gear is rated for sub-zero temperatures.

Yes. it is my main concern. 

[Cyknight]

Do you have any control right now from the house? Do your wireless buttons reach from the house or a garage well? If so, get an extra wireless button/fob and solder a relay.

 

 

[zaphod]

FWIW I have had C4 controllers like HC-300s and 250s (now ac 800), plus the CardAccess relays in my pool cabana that is unheated and they have survived.  Temperatures occasionally get down to -20C here in Toronto.  I also have dimmers and keypads in there as and they have survived for over a dozen years.  The controllers have become obsolete before any other issues arise.

I would also recommend the iTach.  I have a spare iTach Global Cache GC-100.  PM me if you are interested.  But it needs wired internet - which you may be able to achieve with powerline adapter(s).

[vitali]

Hmmmmm. interesting!!!!  Need to buy some remote in home depot, connect power supply (no batteries issues in future) and solder some small relay to contacts, connect to controller. Hmmm. may be I will try it. Thanks for idea.

[vitali]

2 hours ago, zaphod said:

FWIW I have had C4 controllers like HC-300s and 250s (now ac 800), plus the CardAccess relays in my pool cabana that is unheated and they have survived.  Temperatures occasionally get down to -20C here in Toronto.  I also have dimmers and keypads in there as and they have survived for over a dozen years.  The controllers have become obsolete before any other issues arise.

I would also recommend the iTach.  I have a spare iTach Global Cache GC-100.  PM me if you are interested.  But it needs wired internet - which you may be able to achieve with powerline adapter(s).

Hi, thanks for respond! I live in Vancouver, so winters here are not that bad as in Toronto, so it will survive here for sure. I have HC-250 (no licenses, so cheap one) which will work good (relay and sensor can be connected), but my main concern was reliable internet connection to the system. Will "try it at home" first  

Thanks.

[VINCELdUB]

Hmmmmm. interesting!!!!  Need to buy some remote in home depot, connect power supply (no batteries issues in future) and solder some small relay to contacts, connect to controller. Hmmm. may be I will try it. Thanks for idea.

The remote that is soldered and connected to a relay is very reliable. Basic wireless communication. Will not give you notification that the gate is open or closed though.



Happy Automating!!

[RAV]

For wireless gate status:

https://dakotaalert.com/product/utre-4k-plus/

[vitali]

1 hour ago, RAV said:

For wireless gate status:

https://dakotaalert.com/product/utre-4k-plus/

Disconnect speaker, connect resistor ( to cancel sound), connect it to controller's sensor? In button to connect (solder wires) external contact to reach gates? It is good solution and I will do it at home, to safe money for sure. but for client.... 

Will ask him to dig and bring cable , if he wants to monitor gates status. for now he will do it with existing gates timer, open for 2 min, close.

Thanks for respond and advice!!!

[vitali]

11 hours ago, VINCELdUB said:

The remote that is soldered and connected to a relay is very reliable. Basic wireless communication. Will not give you notification that the gate is open or closed though.



Happy Automating!!

Hi, I did something same in the past, pretty long time ago, forgot already about that solution . Only one issue I got, client didn't want to touch it to change batteries in remote  

[RAV]

2 hours ago, vitali said:

Disconnect speaker, connect resistor ( to cancel sound), connect it to controller's sensor? In button to connect (solder wires) external contact to reach gates? It is good solution and I will do it at home, to safe money for sure. but for client.... 

Will ask him to dig and bring cable , if he wants to monitor gates status. for now he will do it with existing gates timer, open for 2 min, close.

Thanks for respond and advice!!!

No need to modify. The oblong receiver has nc and no terminals. (round one doesn't)

And the wireless transmitter has terminals too if need different magnet setup. (the grey dot is a button, can be used as doorbell trigger too)

We have them on a clients manual walking gates for notification and auto lights, works really well.

[marina_av]

I just did something similar. I'm using a DS2 for gate control, so scope might be a bit different, but here's what it looks like:

• DS2 connected to gate control box
• Meraki 8 port switch in a NEMA enclosure
• Ubiquiti NanoStation AC wireless bridge (wirelessly connects to another one back at the house)
• AC power goes to the switch, and PoE powers the DS2 and NanoStation

It works really well and I have some spare switch ports for cameras or otherwise. But obviously this would be an expensive solution if you don't need intercom and video.

-Stephen

[vitali]

1 hour ago, RAV said:

No need to modify. The oblong receiver has nc and no terminals. (round one doesn't)

And the wireless transmitter has terminals too if need different magnet setup. (the grey dot is a button, can be used as doorbell trigger too)

We have them on a clients manual walking gates for notification and auto lights, works really well.

wow. checked it. 1 mile radius!!!! will keep it in mind for sure!!!! Thank you. 

[vitali]

4 minutes ago, marina_av said:

I just did something similar. I'm using a DS2 for gate control, so scope might be a bit different, but here's what it looks like:

• DS2 connected to gate control box
• Meraki 8 port switch in a NEMA enclosure
• Ubiquiti NanoStation AC wireless bridge (wirelessly connects to another one back at the house)
• AC power goes to the switch, and PoE powers the DS2 and NanoStation

It works really well and I have some spare switch ports for cameras or otherwise. But obviously this would be an expensive solution if you don't need intercom and video.

-Stephen

yes, it is pretty expensive solution . But thanks for idea and respond.

[Amr]

You could still use the Nano’s to get signal to your 250, this is more durable than the power line!