lippavisual

Everyone that I’ve googled shows a DC motor for the fan. That won’t work well with a C4 Fan Controller. Most likely the reason why these keep quitting on you. The Fan controller is for AC motor fans only, as it steps down the power being fed to the fan. Those fans are Bond compatible, which would be the route I’d take. You can use a C4 switch for full power On/Off as well.

Spotify Connect should act the same way as Shairbridge does. Create the name and click set, add any auto-room power properties and done. Using Spotify, you should see your created name as a casting endpoint.

Is this fan a DC motor?? And you're using the C4 Fan Controller?? Certainly, there is a way to bypass those controls as I've done that several times with many brands.

I have not, was looking for direct network integration.

Unfortunately, my own phone has been doing this as well. Seems it only happens after the app has been running in the background for a while. Open the app back up and same result, "unable to authenticate please log in". I log in with the correct credentials and it still just hangs and doesn't connect, so then I force close app again. Open it back up and it's connected. Since I noticed this a week or so ago, I've just been force closing the app after every time I use it and hasn't happened since.

Set network and controller DNS to 8.8.8.8, 8.8.4.4 and 1.1.1.1

Has anyone tried interfacing with Mr. Cool DIY Mini split systems?? They do have their own Wi-Fi based app and also integrate with Amazon/Google. My searching hasn’t found any drivers. Thanks

Will it be intended to always play the same thing when audio turns on? Or is discrete control required for each zone? If so, separate rooms are needed.

Are you leaving any AV settings on the Roku set to Auto? If so, don't do that. Set them to what your system is capable of. My guess with your MOIP setup is an EDID issue.

As long as you're using native C4 Digital Audio, Triad One will work perfectly fine. You need strong wifi and a power outlet, wire to speakers.

I would personally remove most of your wording. For instance, "Basement Bathroom", is a room, why have basement bathroom in the name of your lighting at all?

Is the antennae attached to the controller?

It's mounted to the fence with a screw. Open cover, remove screw, then bring it inside for the surgery and use a spudger from an electronics kit. Also, just noticed when I got home, it's not silicone (from a hardware store) I use, it's a silicone rubber sealant that most LED Ribbon tape suppliers would have for sealing outdoor connections. This stuff peels off in much bigger chunks than silicone. Little tubes of it costs a couple bucks. https://www.superbrightleds.com/wfls-gl1oz-1-oz-waterproof-sealant-tube-wfls-gl1oz

Mine is out in the open, not covered, and can get temps from -10 to 100F.

Silicone does wonders. Just know that it will void the warranty. I’ve had mine outside on a gate fence for 5 years now. Just have to replace silicone each time when changing batteries.

The only delay that may be introduced, would be from the surround processing of the audio from the AVR. Easily solved by changing the audio mode to stereo on the AVR.

You won't get anything from the TV the way you're designing it. Use a streaming box, extract the audio from that HDMI output, then send that 2 channel audio back to your Triad equipment.

I'd go the protective housing route. I've done several projects for an autistic school. One of them was where pockets were built within the wall and had Sony TV's installed, then plexi with holes for ventilation on top. Couple of other rooms and areas used TV Armor setups.

To re-iterate, these products only work as good as your dealer designed and configured them. Zero issues with Neeo and Halo using Ruckus product. Most installers I’ve encountered in many industries literally unbox it and install it. Seldom do I see any of these people actually test and fine tune the product.

Anything else non-c4 related have problems when this issue arises? Like, do your phones have problems surfing the web?

A lot of butchering of the English language going on here.

Pretty sure Open Weather requires a paid account now.

Throw in an AV Path Setter driver. Connect the Atlona hdmi output to the PS HDMI input. Then PS hdmi out to the TV and toslink out to the Russound. Its a goofy pathing issue.

Look, that’s great for new construction but totally useless for retro’s. Sidelights and door/wall framing don’t allow for a lot of space around my area. Full wall cavities are very rare, especially close to door. My opinion, big miss on design. Should have just been an RJ45 port and terminals. The pigtails are one reason why I stopped using their cameras too. Shouldn’t have to drill large holes to stuff the thing or buy an obnoxiously large junction box.

Haven’t looked at the box but will do.