lippavisual

Because you need to look in Agents where the variable is stored if you want to see the count. All that keypad is currently doing is changing the led button light and adding +1 to your Variable.

Just say Alexa turn x room off.

Use the Room control driver.

To program the color buttons, select the room in Device Events. Then select the color buttons in the drop down.

Netflix and some others do it too. I don’t mind it actually, when I want to see what something’s about. But it does get annoying while your just scrolling through.

No there isn’t, regarding your audio question. WN just likes to be negative for anything on this site. I’ve learned to just look over his posts. Audio and Video distribution still has a mainstay in my business.

No because there is no press and hold in programming. It would fire enter command 10 times.

Have you had a remote dealer look at the system? If the T4’s were ID’d by IP address, I wouldn’t be surprised if other items in your project are done the same (especially your controller running director) when they aren’t supposed to be ID’d like that. Some other things that could cause problems: - you could have some IP conflicts with devices. - your network isn’t working efficiently. - setting your T4’s to go back to the default room after screensaver. You can check this yourself on the T4 in its settings. - paying your dealer anything without any resolve. Unless they didn’t provide or install your equipment? This should all be covered by that companies warranty. I remember you posting of issues before, I’d suggest to start working with someone else who’s more knowledgeable. It’s not the products fault (98% of the time), it’s the way it’s been installed and/or designed.

I have VPN’s to all my networks so different branding doesn’t bother me, nor the need for OVRC. Much faster to open a VPN and log directly into the product vs. opening OVRC and having limited connectivity, where I’ll most likely have to log directly in anyways. Ruckus Unleashed offers remote management as well using their app. Edge is the non-UniFi brand for Ubiquiti. Edge is just like any other L2/L3 switch and configuration isn’t handcuffed like UniFi. Araknis switches aren’t bad, they do work and are simple to configure, but I find them to be way overpriced.

Should be able to setup a colored button or custom to toggle view mode.

Does the LG have discrete toggle code for Picture View mode? Pretty sure it does.

Access buys Ruckus gear and brands them as Access. They also add their flavor of software for support. Setup of each Access item is practically identical to installing Ruckus branded product. The premium you pay to Access is for their support. Which, comparing both company’s support offerings, doesn’t add much value in my eyes. However, Access will design a network system for most integrators for a fee.

Sounds like your assigned license was revoked or you haven’t renewed your license.

Mikrotik router- Edge Switches- Ruckus Wifi, is our preferred combo and can handle anything network related. Unifi or Eero for budget conscious/network tinkerer. However, we do not warranty/guarantee anything after customer testing and sign-off. Updates are all performed via customer and any network related service call is billable.

Zero issues with Roku players or TVs. Probably the most solid IP driver available.

Iport and Simplidock is all I’ve ever used.

Suera and Terrace is all we sell.

Not much all in one products around any more. Most likely will need separate components.

Back when you could use IR drivers for receivers, zone 2 wasn’t really an issue if you used another copy of the driver and only made the connections to zone 2 IO’s.

Ditto for a main core switch. Use switch 1 as the core. Plug the other switches into that. Personally, since just all your c4 devices are on the 3rd switch, I’d plug that switch into switch 2. so modem- router- sw1-sw2-sw3 if your switches have 10gb back plane, utilize them.

That price all in, I would've just purchased a 100" Monitor and called it a day.

I’m still running an original slim line NR1601 (?), I believe, for one of my zones. Solid product and has made it through lots of surges and brownouts.

OK I'll bite. Documentation is below. Hardware Setup · Make sure that the TV and controller in the same Local Area Network. Connected by either wired or wireless means. Control Connection Setup · Enable the “Control4 Port” on TV under the directory “Settings à Advanced System à Control4 Control Port”. · Launch Composer on a PC and search for the desired TV to connect. Driver Setup · Add the driver in Composer software. Properties explanation · These commands can be accessed via Programming or Custom Buttons: number, channel up/down, direction, volume +/-, mute on/off. Manufacture Technical support contact information: · To give us a call 1.888.935.8880 · To shoot us an email service@hisense-usa.com AC power off precautions · due to TV hardware limitations, in the event of a power failure, once power is returned the TV will need to be manually turned on via OEM remote or hard power button on TV to regain control. RELEASE NOTES: Version 1 -Initial Release

I'm in the other camp of going to a network switch. But I also create a separate security camera VLAN. I also don't typically use standard NVR's but rather Synology NAS and use Surveillance Station.

Not a TV but a projector. Haven’t worked with them before but what driver are you using? What does the documentation say? my guess would be that there’s some energy savings setting on it that needs to be disabled, in order to keep the Network control available during standby.