Cyknight

Again - doesn't matter what the driver can do, if the PROXY the driver uses has no option/tie-in to use it. No driver editing will change that. You COULD see if somehow a new driver could be made using the media proxy. Not sure if it would work - but that's where you'd be looking at.

Dear me, let's not go there! It would be a simple matter as such of having a device that can simply tell you what is playing....but it keeps getting back to this - there are no disc changers with that sort of ability on the market to day in a number that makes sense for Control4 to do anything about. PERHAPS if there is enough want for it, a media proxy driver (the proxy that handles all that fancy feedback you see for other sources/streaming services) could be made to handle a disc-changer. Not saying it IS possible, but it might be. But once again - to what economic end.

Program what? You CANNOT program the navigators or proxies.

No, not broken - limited.

Sure, but the proxy still isn't able to translate that info - and there is no sense to update the proxy. No modifying the driver will change that.

It's even possible that older systems had it, not sure at this time - but the disc changer proxy died with the demise of the 7000 bluray changer. Numerous changes have been made to the system and indeed to now playing/media metadata handling since. Make no mistake - I'm an 'old dog' when it comes to C4 and related. And "not so many years ago" is -for better or worse- ancient in terms of technology. Honestly - any time you can use the plural form of year, it's old. The 7000 was brought out in 2009 - and I think it was at least a year that the 777 was eol at that time (forcing C4 hack use of other models for some) but even at best it was the same year. That's 7 years+. And the 700 lasted at best until early 2012 - so that's 4 years past support.

Showing the controls is normal. I THINK so is the fact that it cannot directly display song/artist info. As far as the system is concerned, your 'current media' is merely the 777, not whatever disc etc it's playing. You have to keep in mind that the 777 is quite ancient in technology terms, thus so is it's driver (and indeed the complete proxy it is based on) - it wouldn't have been updated to have the ability to display content etc as has been done for still 'relevant' devices/proxies as nothing of the type of device has been brought out in many years by now - so there is little (no) call to try and update that old disc-changer proxy.

Thanks, I'll have to have a look. My unit's been a bit dead in the water due to distribution issues, and I've had no time to move it around as of yet, so it's not in use at the moment.

Gotcha - just wanted to point that out.

Hmm, one thing to note is that we may be talking about something else still - based on that KODI image there. There are also so-called MINI drivers, ie for Sonos or Roku. Those may be what you mean by 'channel' icons. If so - you're back to drivers and 1024x1024 as your base. Note that MANY of the mini drivers (but far from all!) are 'locked' ie you can't touch or change them, including Sonos, I assume HTI's Roku driver (C4 mini drivers can be made for Roku) and some others. These are actual 'drivers' in that you load them as such and their art work with it.

AH, I get what you're saying. With the new 'drivers' for these, I guess that got a bit confusing. No that isn't in a driver, it's loaded and edited via the media Tab in composer. For movie posters I think the recommended size is something like 2000x3000 or near, but that's far overdone for channels obviously. I'd say 600x600 for those is plenty (they are square, unlike movies). You just load those direct into the system, or if you want, do one system and then export the media list to have handy to import whenever you want into other projects - THOSE get scaled by the system automatically.

? not sure what you're asking here. The icons used by the driver range from 10x10 to 140x140 in increments of 10, with the 1024x1024 acting as the 'master' to create them all. This is all documented in the article you would have gotten the program from....

ooops 1024x1024 was the one of course. Large? Sure. Can you use another? sure - but WHY if you can find a bigger image? WHY blow up an existing image? Beyond that - all I gave you was the recommended size (minimum size in fact) - as per control4.

1046x1046 is the recommended size

I understand what you're looking to do - but you're bumping into a number of limitations. The app can now handle the access agent, but it's got some limitations - in particular is that you cannot limit access on just one phone, it's all or nothing. WITHIN C4, what may work best is to have ZigBee locks, those can be managed with C4 in one app, and have ability to have multiple codes, and has scheduling available as well (example cleaner can only come in tuesday and thursday between 9am and 4pm)

It depends on what you're truly looking to do. If it's integrated into c4, you can ALREADY give people permanent or controlled access to your system, and thus any integrated locks. If you expect a LOT of people that need temporary access - you shouldn't be looking at a cheap solution anyway as it now becomes a security issue. In the end - it matters little. The Danalock is bluetooth and ZWave only so there is no direct integration path. PERHAPS there is some way to tie it into a Vera ZWave controller, that can then be integrated into Control4 - but you're now adding steps that are going to be just as expensive and that much more unreliable for something locks.

That's just a zwave relay board. It has it's own 'app' but from an integration standpoint it's nothing more than a relay board. The fact that it's zwave mean no, no one has or will look into it. We HAVE numerous wireless or other option to add relays in addition to already built-in controller/i/o extender relays. WiFi, serial, IP, ZigBee....all already available either via Control 4 or 3rd party manufactures or driver developers.

It's HDMI - nothing is impossible

EA series HDMI uses EDID management/HDCP for it's resolution setting.

Sounds like you'll need to have that patch applied

I'd try bypassing the receiver, see if it makes a difference. At this point it's a matter of isolating the location where it's going wrong.

just a cycle is fine.

Do the reboot - it will tell you instantly if all the wiring and programming is correct or not. If you hadn't rebooted yet, and the reboot 'fixes' it then chances are the above patch is what you need (it would crash again eventually).

Then at least it's set - what's the path it's supposed to take? Is it direct to a TV with a normal HDMI? You can also select it (ie press that "4" then manually powercycle it and see if you get any images then - if not, I'd start looking at connections, cables etc.

Most likely, the controller isn't set to be the OSD - when you press the "4" does it state a controller (on a remote)