Cyknight

a few things to note: SiriusXM DOES have a time-out for streaming services unless you have a business/commercial account. The time and duration of this timeout differes per channel, time of day and how busy the service is, but SHOULD be a bare minimum of an hour, 2-3 hours for most channels. What you'll see when this happens is that the system will still say SXM is playing, but you'll see a PLAY symbol on interfaces. OUTSIDE of that, there's possibly something going on as well. IF you have sound shutting off at much shorter intervals from above, and there is a STOP symbol vs a PLAY symbol - than it is NOT the normal time-out.

No different from Houselogix, it requires a dealer to do this for you.

Simple appliance? I'd have to disagree there. But yeah, someting in the ZigBee setup got changed affecting that particular device, then it got fixed in a later software version.

That's my understanding.

Then you have your answer - those mini remotes don't ID properly in the version you're on.

What's your software version? I think 2.10 included some fixes for these devices introduced several versions back (particularly on ID even)

IS looking into it, unfortunately test cases are inconsistent.

Well right now going to a second page of a thread is hanging and needs a reload, but the ads don't bother me as such - if you guys can keep this thing running because of them - then by all means.

Ah missed that app part - yeah networking comes to mind.

It's rather vague (not your fault) on where the issue lies based on that. IF you only have an EA3 as a controller though, itr sounds like it may just be coverage of ZigBee

Coding can be changed from a C4 interface - press the arrow button on the right side of the lock's toggle button. As for the reset - I'd figure out HOW it's crashing to begin with - it indeed simply shouldn't require it.

Normal internet stream time-out?

And it will depend on how much you need if it'll even save money, at some point heavier duty powersupplies with higher ratings will actually start to cost MORE than several 'lighter' ones. Mind you you're talking a LOT of feet before you get there, and not likely with 5 decoders, but keep it in mind.

What powersupply you need depends on the amp rating of your LEDS - usually denoted by feet or meter. That's the MAX draw. Then you should keep a 20-30% overhead on the powersupply total. Be it as one powersupply or broken up in multiples. Delay should be non-existant regardless of lenght. HOWVER if you do very long pieces, you may want to apply the power at BOTH ends to prevent fading (and in RGB that becomes discoloring) of the output towards the end of the strip.

plus with the million and one they keep changing on the firmware on it the API is probably constantly changing...

The same reason it would cause drop-outs on your phones, on laptops and more. This is exactly why you wouldn't call multiple AP Wifi signals the same name, and part of why WiFi extenders are sucha poor idea (just to note, this is DIFFERENT if you have a AP setup that handles it's own hand-off like you have). While ubiquity does the hand-off, it does NOT do that across different Ghz rated networks which still act as two individual setups

Mhhh. Well first of all, to get HiRez, you'll need EA controllers, HC800 cannot do it (it's maxed at CD quality). Don;t need the new triad as such. The difference? that'll depend on how many streams you want (goes down as number of physical conections go up, be they in use or not) - depends on speakers as well, and your hearing..... Honestly - I'd say no, as a standalone feature it's not worth upgrading.

As Thawes more or less said as wellm there's a LOT of possible variables to take into account. Unlike airplay where the actual stream volume is controlled (or ignored) in the case of Spotify, it is intended to control the end device's volume. Not a major issue on a single point devices where the stream has only one place to go (even streaming to multiple Connect points still means each actual stream only has one single possible path, including Sonos) - within C4 or other more complex setups this may well be a huge undertaking due to all the possible variables. I do not know if it's even possible to extract the command being sent out by the Spotify app. I've heard it said that it's 'just' a UpnP command, but I've hear quite the opposite as well in that it's a function buried in the Connect base system/plugin. I do not claim to know the truth of of that last part at all, but the simple fact that it could go either way or anywhere in between indicates that getting volume control may be at best a while in coming, if it comes at all. Like I said elsewhere, at this point I would not view the Spotify Connect integration as a way to lose an app (though it is certainly a way to lose some hardware), but as a way to be more efficient in using Spotify (as opposed to use Airplay as well), a way to not have to stream from your phone all the time (as it hands off the actual stream handling) and as a way to get Spotify without added hartdware and/or via Android based phones (vs being limited to airplay or use Sonos or Chrome Casts)

As I've seen some questions concerning this I figured I'd give a bit of info. As of 2.10 Spotify Connect is available in Control4. Please note that if your system is running on an HC250 as the main controller it will NOT be able to do Spotify Connect. At this point in time please note that you CANNOT control volume from within Spotify - you have to use Control4. You have the ability to create 20 presets from playlists to trigger in programming, plus the 'normal' spotify connect option. This is driver based, and you can have multiple drivers in a single system, and they'll show up as separate connect locations. This allows you to have multiple different streams at the same time, but also allows you to use it as triggers similar to Shairbridge. The driver allows for auto room on setups similar to Shairbridge. So as an example you can have a Spotify driver named 'Connect Living' and program that to turn on the living automatically, plus additional rooms as well, and then add one called 'whole house' and have it automatically switch all audio zones to that connect stream. I'm unsure on the max number of drivers you can add at this point, but I imagine there is a cap, just like there is for Shairbridge (forgot the amount but it's over 10 I think). Note that if you set up that 'living' option, you can still join multiple rooms to that 'living' stream via C4 should you want to.

Here's your screenshot:

May of 2017 and most things originally done with apps in flash are now replaced with drivers and/or experience buttons. Control4 is doing pretty good.

Windows 10 isn't a server software. It was never great to use a 'consumer' windows as a network share, but in Win7 or 8 Microsoft made changes to how their shares work (can't be bothered to dig for the details). Control4 if I remember correctly looked at it, but it was too involved to make the changes to have their Linux version compatible as it was never a recommended or great setup to begin with. And no I do not know if Windows Server 2016 has the same issues. Frankly, for storage use a NAS or a NAS intended server such as FreeNAS or similar.

Already mentioned, stop trying to connect C4 to a computer, get a NAS - store it there OR use the iTunes driver IF that is a fit for you.

In addition - while I'm well aware of the overall quality issue - most rockers that fail could have been prevented by making sure the cutouts are clean/clear before getting them on (not that that as such ought to be required, but that is not the point I'm making). In other words if your dealer/installer checked the buttons/rockers before putting them on, chances are you're fine anyway.

C4 has changed their supplier a while ago - if you're having a lot of failures, tell your dealer to take it up with C4 - that said....not sure why you're replacing the whole light switch when you could just get a new button/rocker?