Cyknight

The built in stereo audio switch in the matrix is a fully separated audio switch. As such you COULD feed the hdmi stereo out into either your audio matrix switch. This would create a multi-level matrix however - something LONG very strongly discourage by Control4 (with good reason as it certainly created problems). Now - more recently people at C4 have claimed this problem should be fixed. I've heard a select few state similar issues as in the past howver. I've simply stuck to the old ways. YMMV however - it is as it stand currently not against 'policy' to do HDMI matrix audio out to Audio matrix switch. The advantage of using the HDMI matrix is that it has a built-in audio delay. However you are adding an additional step to your audio path already CAUSING a delay - so you may find your audio delayed already - and no audio delay control can make audio go faster. In addition, only 2ch pcm will be output through the 3.5mm.

Those adapter plates were never MEANT for the T3 series of screens - they were for the Infinity edge 7". Your best bet is to use a 10"

Looking at the picture - there's a remote unit as well? Is there an end-cap on the final piece?

That (range voltage) would be illegal for anything that is considered part of a structure I believe. As to why there isn't a 220 version, not sure - could have something to do with how 110 is wired vs 220 in this particular case though.

Existing sensors will need to be re-connected to the new driver. Programming DIRECT from the panel (ie when in alarm, but NOT programming based off the sensors) will need to be redone. As far as doing security is concerned - it's not hard at all - there's just a LOT of reading...and you have to go through every step meticulously. Because if you ARE getting errors once all is said and done - it can be hard then to trace it down.

You're 'blaming' the wrong party here. All other 'control' systems would have the EXACT same issue.

Again - OP wasn't TALKING about URC the BRAND but as a short for universal remote codes - the codes you enter into your 'generic' remote or your cable/sat providers remote to control TV as well as box....

Really? Wonder which code you used? The motorola one? Or perhaps RCA or the Radioshack one? In this case URC stands for the generic term - not the company PS I edited my original post to make that a bit clearer

URC (as in not the brand but the codes for generic universal remotes) codes are meaningless for C4. What you'd have to do is learn in the codes for the input changes. If the remote you have has actual buttons for each input - you're golden, but any half-decent dealer would have been able to do that. Lacking that, depending on how the TV works, a custom macro may be possible. This will largely hinge on if a) the tv doesn't auto-jump inputs that it doesn't see a signal on and if there is SOME way of discretely getting back to the built in tuner (ie a separate button to do so, or a channel up command brings you there). Lacking that - you'll have to start searching for IR hex codes and good luck there. One final option that you MAY have available is to check if Logitech has a driver for your or a close model - and see if it has discrete input codes. If it does, you could get whatever base (cheap) model from logitech you can get, add the TV there and use that remote to learn the codes into Control4.

You bet you can.

It works on anything within it's RF range, there's a relay driver for it that you can attach any desired motorized device to. Also has an IR blaster built in. I've yet to attain anything for myself that would use it to do extensive testing - but it's a great little piece from my limited exposure.

That's just because they're up side down!

AH! But now you've MADE your fan 'dumb' and the information once again applies!

Anything you want really - though you cannot change the button size on them, each and any of the buttons can be set to be a keypad (or changed to one of the other settings) Commonly used to control another load, or at times the bottom one gets changed to a room off button.

Switch or Fan Controller

Double doubt it - and sure, he won't be responsible, doesn't stop you from saying - ok i'll try it.

No, the main difference is availability of all functions (relay control, default user for disarm, history for example) - I do not know the details on which will or won't work - but those I've seen at least do normal arm/disarm and sensor functions fine)

I'll copy and past my previous post, a few up from yours: Could have saved you the effort of the call - and I'll also point out that I point out that it may just be worth a try....

Some small notes: -The driver has the ability to setup the camera for you, so no need to figure out what settings to enable for C4 to get it's streams correctly, you can even set it to sych time with C4. -The driver has available contact closures for all detection types HIKVision has - it will of course depend on what the camera can do, indeed the driver will get FROM the camera which detection features are required. Yes that will often mean you can use their motion detection for programming.

It's a generic HIKVision driver - not everything in the driver will be supported by every camera - including but not limited to SDDP (yes that would mean that HIKVision is an SDDP partner). I would expect all current models will work with it, there is no specific list of those that will or will not work. I can tell you that some camera's MADE by HIKVision under OEM work with it though

If you want only low light instead or IR with HIK you'll have to look at there box cams. Frankly though, I go with IR, it's generally still clearer to see faces etc in the dark I like their turret personally, 0.01 Lux before it goes to IR. How wide angle do you need? They have full fisheye too...like I said, they have a LOT of options, and all the ones I've used to date work well beyond expectation.

HIKVision works well too. Lilin and HIKVision have the adcantage of having pretty decent NVRs as well that (obviously) work well with their own cameras. Personally, I'd be going with HIK at this time. They're hard to beat in their choice and range of cameras.

04.81 is required to GUARANTEE functionality. See what is printed in caps there? I've heard at least one claim that had it working on earlier versions. YMMV Concords cannot be updated I fear - but trying to see if it works is minimal effort.

Absolutely agreed - but I lived with nest for some time - and it's learning, while not bad, isn't as good as you CAN set it yourself. But in a new house, new zoning system etc, it's quite normal to want some manual control untill you get the hang of it. Also why I mentioned putting the tstats up initially - if you want to 'pretty' it up later those wires can always be changed to remote sensors.

Not withstanding the above post. C4 thermostats still have this option. I find it funny how people seem to find it 'ugly' - I really sort of like the design, it fitting very well with the current lighting/keypad device line. It doesn't have a fancy colour touch-screen true - but from the sound of it that isn't what you want anyway. Understand also, that you could mount the T-Stat in location for now, and always change it later - the sensor can then use the existing t-stat wires and you place the tstat at the furnace later on.