Cyknight

That's how I understand it.

I've seen this a handful of times: this seems to occur when a zone times out (ie playing a playlist, or airplay and device leaves, Spotify and it gets disconnected. Somehow the timeout isn't shutting the zone down in the background, eventhough interface says it's off. As I've seen it only a few times, getting any logs in to C4 hasn't happened on my side yet: not sure if they are aware of any bug about it.

Yes I said MyQ versions (which was 2013) - before that chamberlain (and sub brands) were like any other brand, standard relays. For awhile, early MyQ doors would still react to a relay closures (essentially shorts of the data connection) but it would reset any of their fancy wall units (that displayed date and time) and if you had 'other' items attached (i.e. external lights) they wouldn't react at all or do funky stuff.

It never was the right way of doing it on MyQ openers as it's causing a reset - those connections are NOT standard relay contacts, they're data connections. I think it stopped working fairly early on because it was damaging the units and/or properly wired buttons as many were 'doing it anyway' and using cheap buttons (this isn't even really relating to C4 or other control systems I think)

Heh. You have a programming in place that IF timer is running, AND IF timer is not running. That'll never happen. You are overly complicating your whole setup. Security light driver is easiest but requires dealer. All you want to program is: WHEN motion senses motion START timer {set lights as desired with IF time is/else} Leave everything else out of there (START timer also RESETS timer) Then WHEN timer expires turn off lights

We mostly use GreenAudio but I'd be surprised if you'd find it anywhere for sale. As you're limited to 1080p there's honestly a lot of cheap options out there that should do fine

You're right on the money. I suspect you're LIKELY right in that the port is failing, and yes you can just get a hdbaseT transmitter/receiver set and use the MATCHING HDMI out instead, and nothing needs changing form a system perspective.

As do some others, based on logitech media service - but that wasn't what C4 used to begin with. Official partnership rules out using unofficial API use though, so stuck - and yes the official API sucks (though that is still more the fault of Spotify/Apple than it is Sonos)

If they did, you'd have nothing. That hidden API is fully shut down at this point.

The problem is that there is no clear trigger to start from. You can catch a BIT of it by going room variable, video device selected changed, but it won't really catch a change between youtube being selected if another app is selected first (say netflix) as the 'video device' in both cases is the actual TV ... so there is no trigger happening. And obviously it doesn't do anything when doing it from the TV menu. Theoretically you could have a permanent timer running and every time timer expires you can check the 'current app' variable and program, but not ideal to do so.

Never looked for nor cared about a Tesla driver. You may well be right, wouldn't know. Numerous old drivers that were based on unsupported/unofficial (or no longer supported) API were not blocked that I'm aware off, they usually died simply because the API was changed. Dead driver does not equal C4/Snap blocked the driver.

HAH, that one I may have to have some doubts on

Devils advocate here: but you're only one side of the story and you certainly wouldn't be saying there is a reason. I even doubt this has anything to do with anything YOU did - this feels more like a SnapOne vs MyQ issue and you're caught in the middle. I suspect this is going waaaaay over your guy's head as far as copyright and legality is concerned: this is corporate level BS which is in it's own world altogether (that's not meant derogatory towards you - if anything it is towards enterprise/corporate level lawyers) To be clear I certainly don't expect there to be a driver issue with memory or malware, that was a separate comment on the fact that they have actively blocked drivers in the past. I see nothing wrong in what you guys did: I'm just being more careful in withholding judgment on SnapOne until there's clarity on what is -or will- happen and why.

I suspect some of it is liability. MyQ, or so I base on the posts earlier, ended up listing Control4 as an integration option: but it isn't CONTROL4 made or approved, let alone certified, the driver. Garage doors ARE dangerous, can indeed kill. So legally, if there is a claim that MyQ integrates with Control4 in any official capacity, it then potentially opens up liability. So if nothing else, they'll want to distance themselves from it. Now I'm no full legal expert, but I've dealt with plenty of corporate/government law offices and it wouldn't surprise me if C4's legal department told them just saying it isn't enough - they may well have said they HAVE to actively prevent a potentially dangerous driver from working. Now to be clear: I'm in no way SUPPORTING any decision to actively prevent a driver from functioning - just saying that (and with no disrespect meant to Intrinsic on this) we are speculating that this is a 'grudge' due to issues figuring this out with Clare - but there may be a lot more going on in the background concerning legal matters, safety concerns perhaps even copyright. I do know Control4 has actively blocked drivers in the past, though rarely, and only to my knowledge because they either caused bad memory leaks destroying functionality of the system, or were potentially even malware. Though those cases were nothing like what is being presented here. Again, I'm NOT supporting the shut-down of this driver -at least not based on what information we know- even if I have no intention of ever using it (but that is due to Chamberlain's attitude and refusing to reward them for it).

Sigh, sure yes, when setting the matrix to bypass, you or course find there is noticeable noise introduced, whereas to most others it's basically (pretty much as said) a pass-through device

Yes I did mention assuming equalizer is not set, they are pretty much passthrough of the signal...

People really don't ... but they'll convince themselves they do!

The C4 audio matrices are pretty much passthrough (assuming equalizer is not set, which by default it isn't. It's own equalizer isn't bad though, but again, audiophile opinions use a different frame of mind completely.

1 OK 2 I do not believe that C4 ever spec'd the chip set anywhere. HC800 was faily basic, EA started doing HiRez audio, Core is much better. Audiophile? Well that's a matter of opinion mostly, but likely not. Note that bitrate on C4 outputs drop fast if you're adding multiple connections (even when not in use) so results will vary based on setup. 3 Again, more opinion then anything. But it all depends too on what you're running it to. If it's a standard multi zone idst amp, then I'd say no. If to a pair of audiophile grade speakers on a matching amp...then yes.

Rare to have issues in general, and as mentioned, it usually involves a problem that ISN'T Control4 lighting device itself, but a wiring or load issue. In the end, if you want to replace C4 central lighting with a stand-alone system, the most common choice is Lutron Homeworks. Yes it'll cost a lot, but should be cheaper than a house rewire to 'normal' switches. Have you at any point in time reached out to Control4 itself through their customer advocacy?

uh. media PACKAGE, as in a set of media images available to dealers. And yes that's 3 OSD. And yes you'd need 3 OSD controllers, be it 3 centralized or 1 behind each TV. Is this an edited image? Likely, but what you see is far from impossible, indeed easy enough in principal, to do. And of course to show movies like the side two screens that means you must have a supported media player and driver (and indeed, the C4 media player wouldn't be it ). If you 'just' want the centre TV to have OSD, when then you'd need a setup where the centre TV has OSD available, and the others do not. Pretty basic setup stuff. What YOU (OP) need to do to make all that happen, well I can't really tell from a forum post

Then I would assume you also prefer the walk to the thermostat: it's just a bit of a longer walk to the mechanical room now.

Everyone's phone, any remote control, SR series or other.

What you noticed is that it reset to default of showing roo - there's a toggle at the top for room or all (and those stripes in the middle will toggle any load vs only loads that are on)

Note that the relays above are standard 24VAC coil relays - should be able to source them for $5 or less a piece...