brucecampbell

A UPS as well should protect you from any rise in voltage and some have surge protection as well, it’s very recommended to use it with your main controller!

That’s a $30 of Amazon or eBay, I didn’t change my power supply but I think it was 19 VDC PS like the ones used to power old laptops 😃

Well unlike the HC800 option you noted, you didn't specify second hand 😄
Good point, it would be easy enough to see if you swap the two powersupplies to see if this isnt a 40 dollar fix.

I bough an HC800-BL-1 with rack ears and PS @ $50, 9 months ago 😃

If you go EA series, I recommend you go Ea3v2, not the older v1 generation..
But, the core series is a totally different beast, and I'd definitely pick that any day of the week

My suggestion here depends on where u want to go, I suggest 3 routes:
1) As-Is/HC800 Route:
- Get another HC800 off eBay make sure it’s the BL version that have the Site License @ $75~$100 then restore your project with minimum hassle
- Max OS u can reach on the HC800 is 3.3.0, u can’t move forward
- HC800 doesn’t support Apple Bridge so u going to be stuck to other drivers, IR etc
- HC800 is an old power hourse but it’s discontinued now and if u want to add any new features u will be left with what u have
2) Modernize/2xEA3+IOX
- You have a mid size project, 2 EA3 can drive ur project with the required audio out
- EA will allow u to upgrade to latest release 3.3.2 including adding a Halo remote as well
- An IOX will provide u with the IO’s needed
3) Future Proof/2xCore 3+IOX
- If you have some cash to burn go Core, it will power ur project for the future!
- ZWave, etc
You still can mix a Core/EA setup!

First: to keep any HC800 you'd be stuck at 3.0.0
Second, I'd likely suggest a CORE5 plus an i/o extender. That will cover all in/outputs and is plenty of horsepower - this does assume both HC800's are in a single location.

Well, try to rest it to factory, u need a project backup to be able to restore your project, if it’s back online, image update it to 3.3.0 if u r on OS3, restore ur project. If not online, its may be the flash drive.

My Home doesn't exist for OS 3.X.. I don't think Control4 is available in the Windows 11 Android store (amazon), but, as an alternative, you can use Bluestacks to run the Android version (as it has play store). On some phones, you can also integrate your phone with Windows 11 and run the phone app on your computer

Hey
You are correct, i don't think i would pick up the unmanaged switch. Id plug into the router and test the ISP first. 
If you plug into the switch you should be able to ping the router IP in ping plotter. That would tell you if its the switch. *havent tried this but seems logical*
 
Ryan

For the pro, you can look for a good plate amp rated at about 600W - it'll more likely to be worth it at that point. Same idea for doing the work - it's just a speaker cable connection for all intends and purposes. I can't comment on availability in NZ of course, but if you can find a part that is near in dimeansions (whhich are usually posted clearly enough) for the piece, it would likely be worth spending 300-400.

Note, you could get an actual 'external sub amp' too (what is used for passive/inwall subs) but you're asking for even more of a science project as you'll have to run a speaker wire, then seal the cabinet with a plate etc etc

Heh I just picked up a Polk PSW505 for under 250 CAD for black friday.
 
What your repair guy means is -as per above- get a replacement plate amp (the part that's screwed onto the back of it. Yes that can be done, yes it may be tough to find a good match. Dayton Audio is a common parts repalcement, though you'll have to check fits - I'm sure they'll have at least an australian distributor. Also check the auzzie parts express site - I would expect they ship to NZ.
But....look for a deal at this time a year and you may end up paying less.
 
Note, yes it would likely sound just fine, and it won't be hard to do (essentially it's an amp with a single speaker wire output....that you connect to the wire coming from the actual driver. As above - the hard part will be finding a properly fitting one.

You may be able to find a plate amp to replace it but for the price and effort you are better off buying a new sub unless you just want a science fair project to hunt down something that is the right dimensions.
 
 

All drivers use START_VOL_UP and STOP_VOL_UP.  Its just the way the architecture works.
If you are concerned purchase a AVR that has discrete volume control or set the volume limit on your AVR.  Your AVR should have a setting for maximum volume levels.  That way you won't blow your speakers.

As a victim of trailer theft in the Houston, Texas area -- an Apple AirTag would likely have saved the day. The hitch lock was no match for a sledge hammer. Good luck.

Reflective photo electric sensor with a magnetic target mirror is what we've used for something similar.
Basically, the sensor was on the wall of the building the trailer s were backed up to, with mirrors that would be taken off when the trailer was in use, and could be put back on the trailer afterwards (and moved to be aligned to 'secure' the trailer again, hence the magnet vs permanent mount).
Sensor outputs simply ran to zigbee contacts in range of mesh - powered the sensors from a nearby outlet.
 
Once you have an input, you can always program overrides to not trigger whenever you don't want it.

Same problem. Stations that did work are no longer compatible. Not all some channels still work. Frustrating for sure
Randal

🤣🤣🤣

I've certainly seen this on numerous models (including at my own house). Near as I can tell This is primarily, if not only, on Netflix (haven't been able to recreate with prime or disney) - so it may be more an issue in the app than anything else (for me it's only if it's a running show, not from any netflix home screen).
I've set up one with a line of programming:
On Roku power off
delay 250ms
send cancel
delay 250ms
send cancel
delay 250ms
send home.
 
So far that seems to catch it, but this is fairly recent ( a few weeks) and for me at least it wasn't constant.

Hi Chris,
Receiver is Sony STR-DB930
Speakers are KEF Ventura 6 outdoor
Driver is STR-DB840 (IR)
C4 OS was V3.2.1 I think (have since been updated to 3.2.3)
Was using the App on Iphone.
Cheers.

I just read through this thread again. I see you’re using the iOS app and OS 3.2.2.
I talked with my team about this. The issue where the navigator (i.e., the iOS app in this instance) would send the “start volume up” command and not send the “stop volume up” command was fixed two or three years ago. The app now sends a “start volume up limited” command every 0.5 seconds that doesn’t require a stop command to follow. They’re thinking that it must be either a bug in the driver or C4 system. It is up to the driver to make sure that the volume level isn’t too high for the speaker, so it may be that it isn’t checking properly or the amp is too powerful for the speakers. I’ll take a look at the driver tomorrow and see if anything looks off.

I very much doubt if they had it, it would apply to this case unfortunately.  Whilst the IR repeating may have been the trigger for the speakers being damaged, it isn't the root factor. There are also a range of other potential causes including: 
Users manually setting the volume too high (we had a few customers who blew up their speakers themselves by turning them up too loud). C4 sits on top of this layer, so, they could still be blown up independently of C4. Equipment should be set up with hardware limits to reduce risk of damage externally Buggy driver. Control4 didn't necessarily write the driver (it could have been written and tested by the manufacturer themselves). It might also not even be a certified driver, or it may have been signed off by the manufacturer as working. That being said very few modern receivers use IR, so just wondering what receiver you were using? In fact, the driver may have been created by the installer.  Network issues. If the network is flaky, it can cause the END_IR command to never be transmitted properly. Old C4 OS version (this isn't the factor in your case) Speaker limits not set (although, very few installers set these). C4 should never be in a position it should be able to damage equipment (for blinds for example, we normally use hardware interlocks to prevent blinds having open and closed turned on simultaneously).   If the speakers are swapped at any point with other speakers, the limits might also be wrong. It could also be argued, that the speaker manufacturer is at fault partially, because the speakers might not have had overload protection It could also be argued that the speakers were using an overpowered amp   I haven't seen any known issues in 3.2 with IR, so, I don't think this is caused by a bug in C4 OS itself either. In fact, when I last saw an issue with volume, it was solely isolated to TV's (and was possibly a bug on those TV drivers.. Either way, your OS is far newer). 
Ultimately, it sucks the speakers might be blown, but, there are lots of factors. Ultimately though, a hardware limit should have probably have been set (although, admittedly, as an installer, I don't ever recall doing this myself on my own jobs). 
Also, maybe switch to serial / IP, as the experience tends to be better. 

I have AudioControl matrix amps and theater pre-amp. My amps have volume limits which I can’t override without going into the amp setup directly. I’m not sure C4 has a limit setting. 

Unlikely to be the problem, but OS 3.3.1 is awesome, especially if you have lighting