Kahn

The Generic IP Camera Fixed driver may work for you...I'm unaware if any driver for UniFi or Wyze

Example - my Blue Iris Program is on my PC which has an IP of 192.168.0.205 port 81......my cameras were setup as 192.168.0.200 thru 204 @KWD I'll pm you and thanks for the offer. I just have not spent enough time to get it, I'm sure you are right.

I couldn't get the free C4 Blue Iris driver to work for me. If I remember correctly it was issued in 2016 and hasn't been updated since?? I was really hoping to be able to use that driver to pull a specific 2MP stream for the T3's while allowing the cameras to be a full 8MP with Blue Iris software. The driver did, however, find my Blue Iris server - but didn't give me any cameras from the drop down to apply. I was really looking forward to using. I ended up using the Alibi (Hikvision) driver. Driver works great and camera's show up when addressed from individual Camera IP. My issue is - I had to lower resolution in order to display on T3's which was disappointing. Anything higher than 2MP really doesn't display on the T3's. I am displaying cameras thru the Blue Iris app and the C4' app and T3's

Point me to this compatibility camera driver?

I used the Phillips Motion Driver to add several of these around the house. Small, Cheap, good battery life. Best one I have in the project is in my liquor cabinet...….sends me a notification when door opened. Used to flash the lights in the room - but that wasn't covert enough Use one in the master bath too. This one turns on the lights for the shower and vanity when it senses motion and turns off 45 min later. BUT here's my "wow" If the temp in the bathroom goes up beyond 74 AND IF the lights are on - it kicks on my exhaust fan. I replaced the switch with and older used C4 switch, works great. Only runs for 15 min then off again. Keeps the mirrors from fogging up

I'll recheck it all. Are you using the camera driver or the Blue Iris Driver in C4?

I've always been a fan of reserved IP's. Always the best route IP control is just that. No IR required as long as the driver is built for IP control of that device. Depends on your TV, BlueRay Player, or Receiver model. Just because the model is IP capable doesn't mean there's a driver for it in the C4 database. Read up on the AppleTV driver - some real heartaches in this forum about it. Not sure about TIVO - I'm a Plex fan...….

That may be what I do if I cannot sort out the streams. I appreciate the advice for sure and I've definitely considered just that. Which web driver - Chowmain? Displaying the cameras on the T3's using the sub-stream and running the full capability of the cameras on the mainstream is my goal. Anyone have experience with this before I just go with KWD suggestion? Seems the T3's capabilities are the bottleneck in this situation.....as usual.

Count me totally out - won't be buying at all. Rather buy another iPad......

Totally confused on main stream and sub-stream (I think) Here's my setup: 4 Hikvision/Alibi IP cams (8MP). Camera Settings (via web interface) I setup the cameras using their assigned IP via the camera webpage. When setting mainstream to all max settings and resolutions - Blue Iris app and program displays beautifully and the Hikvision Camera's webpage display is outstanding. I played with Sub-stream settings but I don't see anything in other (C4 or Blue Iris) settings to select which stream to use/view. In order for these cams to show up on T3's, I have to reduce resolution and FPS to the point the cams are operating at 1/3 of capability. How can I force the touchscreens to use the SUBSTREAM? Control4 Setup Added 4 Cams to project using Hikvision Driver (static) driver. Driver doc says add via SDDP - but the cams don't show up (not a biggie as I added via IP). Driver doc also says it's for PTZ but I assume the doc is same for both PTZ and Static drivers. Camera setup for the mainstream I set at 10-12fps, 1920X* and medium quality (which looks terrible in Blue Iris by the way). This is the only setting that will display on the touchscreens (T3's). It passes the camera test in the driver. Higher settings will not pass. How can I force the touchscreens to use the SUBSTREAM? Added Blue Iris Static driver (which is pretty old btw) and added ONE camera to driver via drop down and will pass MPEG but not h264 test. Changed resolutions and FPS repeatedly. Blue Iris camera will not display on touch screen at all. I don't know which way to go here. Documentation says it should populate some info about the cam via LUA, but none of the "action" buttons seem to do anything although it does show a list of cameras on the drop downs. Blue Iris All cams setup in Blue Iris and displaying fine on Blue Iris mobile app. Mainstream looks terrible (little exaggeration) with settings that will display on C4 touchscreens (T3's). Side note: Blue Iris is surprising powerful and more capable than an dedicated NVR in my opinion. I'm using a dedicated Lenovo Tiny M92p 2.9Ghz 16GB RAM and 500 GB HD with Win 10 Pro. I was able to pick that up for $165 and another $60 for Blue Iris program. Mobile app was $10 so I have $235 vested in what I consider to be a really nice NVR capable of quite a bit (outside of Control4 with the Hikvision driver or ideally with the Blue Iris driver) There's a paid third party driver Blue Iris driver - which adds overlay capability - probably should look into that. What I'd like to have is the Mainstream at max resolution for the Blue Iris app AND the Sub-stream to the Touchscreens and C4 mobile app.

What setting was it?

That's correct. Hue Bridge Driver (free) Hue Motion Driver (paid) - one driver for site Hue Motion ($39/$49) indoor or outdoor PS - I've got an indoor motion hidden in my liquor cabinet - when the door is opened I get a notification. My 15 year old was "just looking" the other day. - he has no idea how I knew.

You do need the Hue Bridge, yes. Investing in the Hue driver / environment is well worth the expense. Once the motion is added, you can do things like: Turn on/off lights (doesn't matter if it's C4 or Hue) Turn on fans based on temp (C4 only) Dim/brighten lights based on ambient light Just about anything you can dream up programming wise.... Additionally, there's a free Hue driver for the Hue bridge AND individual Hue lights. They are Group white Group color Single white Single color These work great if (I remember correctly these used to be an Extra Veg driver). Hue lights are expensive, but well worth the effort entirely. Black Friday usually has the starter kit on sale pretty cheap. Only Dealers can buy the driver for the Hue motions currently. It's a little taxing to setup - just follow the directions and you will be fine.

Oh yes there is Use the Phillips Outdoor motion with the UnilogIQ driver - works like a champ. I prefer the indoor motions by Phillips too btw. They are small, low battery consumption, and sense light level as well as temperature!! All that for $39 a motion. IMO, that's an unbeatable combo.

Integration with my C4 Touchscreens would be my main concern. Is the paid driver still available? What's the cost of that driver??

I've been reading a lot about Blue Iris and I'm leaning heavily toward it using for some new IP Cams....but I'm worried about the Control4 integration. Should I re-think? I'm really liking Blue Iris and I'd love for it to play well with my touchscreens. I'm on OS 3.1 and have a WALL-7 and a WALL10.

I totally agree with your assessment. BUT - I do believe in relationships between businesses comes down to the management and the employees willing to do whatever it takes. IF someone in a position of importance at Control4/SnapAV were to place value and importance on the integration, and the right people involved in implementation and firmware updates at SONOS were to listen....this could happen very easily. The right people talking to the wrong people is what's happened. Making things happen comes down to a conversation where both see the benefit and correcting/implementing the issue. All that being said - it's my belief that one of these scenarios have occurred: Sonos doesn't see the value in 3rd party integration with Control4 and Sonos wont spend the money or invest in a firmware to make it happen. There is an issue or restriction within the firmware that prevents a solution that doesn't break other operational aspects of the firmware. IE fixing this for Control4 users (let's say 25% of total Sonos users) could affect users (let's say 75% of total Sonos users) that have no Control4. It comes down to customer usability issue for Sonos. In the past, Control4 has taken "no we cant" for an answer from Sonos. Wrong people talking to the wrong people. Control4 has had too many projects occurring simultaneously and Sonos was placed at the bottom of the list for correction. Compatibility between Control4 and Sonos is as good as it's capable of being based on firmware limitations possibly on both sides of the issue. Maybe one day the right person will communicate with the right person and solve the issue. As one who has plenty invested in both companies - I'd be totally elated to see that happen. We should all hope the news has a ripple effect and new staff within Control4 from SnapAV are undoubtedly serious about taking Control4 to the next level and won't accept business as usual or won't accept "can't" for an answer.

That's makes it a must have device now!!!

Component Video

I mis-read as well I have 3 fans and 2 fireplaces I could use this driver for. Amazon has the BOND at $69-$99 Chowmain has the driver at $150 $219 isn't bad considering the alternatives to get those on the devices on Control4 platform

That's the answer I was looking for - thanks for clarifying.

Yes what??? One driver per BOND? (thus the ability to control up to 6 devices only) OK if you only have a fireplace, a few fans, and a couple other devices to control via RF OR multiple BOND's under one site licensed driver? (seems like a few of BOND's may be needed to cover a larger space, more fans, or anything over 6) I like the BOND...I'm happy about the driver being available!! I just think it's important to clarify that the investment of $69 for the BOND and $99 for the driver would only service 6 devices. @alanchow - is this correct?

Does the driver support multiple BOND devices? According to BOND website One BOND currently only supports up to 6 devices within a 2,500 sq. ft. home -

Any other ideas?

what would make it change back to blue when door is closed? Wouldn't the LED just remain blue even when the door was closed? And - that wouldn't make it blink periodically.