rolldog

I have my Roku Ultra hooked into the HDMI IN on the Oppo, but when I select the Roku, the input is supposed to switch to input 2 but it bypasses input 2 and goes straight to input 3 instead, HDMI ARC. Could this possibly be because the Roku is always on and enters a sleep mode when not in use? I've been trying to get this working correctly for a while now. With your driver, will I be able to select the Roku on the Control4 menu, have it switch to the Oppo and have the Oppo automatically select input 2 and stay on input 2 so the Roku can be watched on any TV hooked into the matrix?

I am using the Yeelight app. After doing a little research, I discovered that LAN Control needs to be enabled. I'm not sure if the app for Android is different than for an iPhone, but after enabling LAN control, I could control the lights via the Control4 interface. The weird thing is, I had one LED strip. After setting it up to work on the Control4 interface, I opened up the other LED strip I bought and plugged it in. After going through the initial setup in the Yeelight app, it updated the firmware, but in Composer HE, it lists 2 of the Yeelight RGB LED strips, but they both have the same IP address, which can't be correct, and they're in different rooms. Should I set a static IP for this 2nd LED strip?

I just bought a couple of the Yeelight RGB LED strips, I've set them up, connected them to my network, but the option to enable Developer Mode isn't listed in the app. Any suggestions?

Every now and then, I get the same on mine. I just remove the battery cover, remove the battery, put it back in, and it connects back to my network. I'm assuming the remote has already been added to your C4 controller.

Oh, I spoke with DIRECTV yesterday about upgrading to the HS17, and whoever I spoke with told me that it was completely wireless. Just another example of poor customer support or she might have meant wireless as in no HDMI cable. I was wondering how they expect a 25% increase in speed while going from a hard wired connection to wireless. Oh well, at least you just answered my question about it working with my current system. She said they send a mini receiver with it when it's ordered. Regarding the limitations of power control, I have all my receivers connected to a Wattbox, which is an IP controlled surge protector/line conditioner. This can power off the clients so you don't get a message about having too many receivers online. Every TV in my house is 4K HDR. I never had a problem with having too many 4K video streams since DIRECTV only has one 4K channel, but I used to get a message about having too many receivers online. I have 2 receivers that are local, and the others are connected to my matrix. My current Genie, the HR54, isn't even used with a TV. I have it connected to a monitor so I can access the menu settings, but swapping it out for this new one would be ideal now that I know it can be hard wired to the network. Hopefully they've fixed the problem with my clients constantly going offline. At least once a week, I need to go through the internet settings on the HR54, select advanced, then wired before my clients show that they're back online.

Also, the HS17 is completely wireless.

When you use the RSSI setting, you input the signal strength at which a client can connect. Anything above it, won't connect to that AP. The Power setting of the AP allows you to set it to Auto, Low, Medium, High, and Custom. You go to devices, click on an AP, go to Configuration, then Radios, and under channel width, you can select the power setting for that specific AP. Since you have them set to Auto, which is basically High, change the setting to Medium power, or Low. You can even set a custom power level to prevent 2 APs signals from overlapping.

Right, Auto is the default setting, but the power output is the same as high, 20dBm. Low is 5dBm, and Medium is 12dBm. Most people think Auto will dynamically adjust the power setting based on the surrounding interference from other APs, etc., but all it does is set the AP to High.

I have 6 UniFi AC-HD APs, and I use the same SSD across the house and I've never had wireless problems with my C4 system. One thing that you should probably do is either reduce the power signal on the APs to prevent overlap of the signal or you could use an app like WiFi Analyzer, which will show you the signal strength of all the APs around you, see how strong the signal is on the AP you want to connect to, and then setup the Minimum Signal Strength, or RSSI, for each AP. For example, if your signal strength is -70dBm on the AP you want to stay connected to, then set your Min RSSI to -75dBm, which will keep your T3 TouchPad from switching to another AP. You'll want to check other parts of the house too just to make sure there aren't any other clients that rely on the signal from the other AP and make sure that the signal strength on that client is below -75dBm, otherwise it may prevent other clients from connecting to the AP which rely on the AP for its signal. If you set this up on every AP around the house, use a different channel for each one, and either change the output power from High (default) to minimum which will reduce the WiFi signal and eliminate overlapping signals, or use the Min RSSI feature on each AP, which you will find under Configuration, then Radios (where you set the channel and the power output of the AP), below the power settings for the 2.4Ghz band and below the power settings for the 5Ghz band is where you can setup the Minimum RSSI feature. One of these solutions will prevent every client in your house from trying to connect to multiple APs. As CYknight said, think of your cell phone signal and what's happening when you're driving down the interstate using your phone, eventually, your phone will disconnect from one tower and connect to the next tower, which has a stronger signal, otherwise known as Fast Roaming or Zero Handoff on the Ubiquiti UniFi APs. It always makes sure you're connected to the AP with the strongest signal instead of trying to connect to another AP across the house with a much lower signal. I don't recommend using UniFi's Zero Handoff feature, although it with be seamless roaming from one AP to another, like being on a VOIP call and never dropping a call as you walk around the house, it requires you to set all of the APs to the same channel which could open up another host of problems. I switched my entire network to Ubiquiti products about 2-3 years ago, stopped buying the latest and greatest Linksys, Asus, Netgear, etc router with the most antennas, faster speed, newer features, etc, and I have never been happier running all UniFi products in my home. Another feature you might want to check out is the coverage map. You'll need a copy of your home's floorplan, upload it into the UniFi Controller, set the distance between 2 areas so it knows the scale of the floorplan, then drag and drop every AP onto the floorplan showing exactly where your APs are in the house, then at the top of the uploaded floorplan you can set any signal strength you want, and it will show you exactly what the coverage looks like in the house. You can use this feature to either see where the signals overlap, if they would still overlap if you dropped the power output down to medium from high, you'll be able to see if any APs should be relocated to fix any dead spots in the house, you can keep increasing/decreasing the signal strength of the APs so you know what to set the Min RSSI on, and you can do all of this for both the 2.4Ghz and the 5Ghz network. Once of these should definitely fix your problems. Sometimes, well every time, you choose to use multiple APs in your house, a little more planning goes into the layout of the network, the placing of the APs, and tweaking the signal strength or setting the Minimum RSSI to prevent clients from roaming from one AP to another even though the client may not be moving (this is from overlapping signals). Visit www.ubnt.com, click on Support, then select UniFi, and Ubiquiti has a lot of good information and tutorials showing how to optimally set everything up. It's well worth glancing over. Good luck, and sorry for writing a novel. It's difficult to describe how to fix network problems with just a few words.

Where can one get this C4 driver for iAqualink? Mine was recently setup, but before it was integrated with C4, I used the panel to control everything. With RGB lights set for Acc 1, the only way to change the color of the lights is to power cycle them. The dealer who integrated the iAqualink system into my C4 system has it setup where I can operate the pump (on/off) for the waterfalls, but if I try changing the colors of the lights, they only turn off and don't turn back on unless I go to the panel. I would really like to be able to control my RGB pool lighting by picking a color, but as of right now all they do is turn off. I'm assuming my dealer doesn't have much experience integrating the Jandy iAqualink system with the C4 and is probably using the wrong driver. If you could point me in the direction of the driver needed to fully integrate the C4 and iAqualink, I'll bring this to their attention. I get tired of standing by the control panel and turning the lights on/off until I get to the color I want. I would really appreciate it!

Sounds a lot like the install that's almost finished at my house, with the exception of the natural gas tiki torches. I'm using a 24" 500,000btu natural gas fire pit. The one I have has an electronic starter that integrates with Control4, but I couldn't justify the $1000 price tag. $1000 will buy a whole lot of matches, but it can be done. I can also operate the waterfalls coming out of a brick wall into my pool with the Control4. I also have 2 Nvidia Shields, one local and one on the matrix, but I use the regular Nvidia Shield remote when using it because it's difficult to play games with the Control4 remote. For some reason my Roku Ultra has been flaky, but I would rather use the Vudu app on my TV since I can watch movies in DV. Every TV in my house is 4K HDR, but only half of them support DV. When playing a UHD Bluray through the matrix, every TV gets a 4K HDR signal, but my Oppo hasn't been installed yet, and I'm still waiting on 4 of my Triad speakers to arrive so my main media room can be finished.

Going back to the initial post in this thread, what kind of hub is needed for a Control4 system? I thought I gave up all the Hue Hubs, Wink Hubs, Samsung Smartthings Hubs ( luckily my LIFX and WeMo bulbs/products didn't need a hub), etc? I had all the products I just mentioned (at the minimum) installed at my old house, but since buying a newly built house 4 months ago, people have been in and out 6 days a week trashing some things that were in the house and adding things it lacked, like a pool, Control4 system, accordion doors that take up the entire wall between the living room and the pool, etc, but I haven't run across any Control4 hubs. I'm still new to the system and am trying to learn as much as possible about it, so I'm far from an expert. Are the hubs you're referring to the EA-1 and/or EA-5?

I'm running a UniFi Cloud Controller, a UniFi USG Pro 4, a 24 port UniFi POE switch, 2 x 16 port UniFi POE switches, an 8 port UniFi POE switch, and 5 x UniFi AC-HD Access Points, so whatever drivers you're working on might be very helpful.